You’re halfway up a rock face, fingers cramping, and every muscle in your body is screaming. The next hold seems just out of reach, and the frustration is building. If you’ve ever been there, you know that rock climbing is more than just about strength — it’s about technique. Mastering the proper rock climbing techniques can transform your climb from a struggle to a triumph. Learn about these strategies to help you conquer any wall with confidence and finesse.

Embrace the Basics: The Foundation of Rock Climbing Techniques

Before becoming a climbing pro, you must master the basics. These foundational rock climbing techniques will set the stage for your ascent.

Footwork: The Key to Efficiency

Proper footwork is crucial in rock climbing. Many beginners focus too much on their upper body strength, but experienced climbers know that strong, precise footwork can make all the difference. Use the following tips to improve your footwork:

Use Your Toes

Place the tips of your toes on footholds to maximize your reach and balance. This strategy gives you more control and helps distribute your weight more efficiently.

Practice Silent Feet

Aim for quiet, deliberate foot placements. This method reduces energy expenditure and increases your precision.

Master Smearing

When footholds are scarce, use the rubber of your climbing shoes to create friction against the rock face. This technique — known as smearing — can provide stability on smooth surfaces.

Body Positioning: Finding Your Balance

Efficient body positioning can make a significant difference in your climbing. Proper alignment and movement reduce the strain on your muscles and conserve energy. Keep these principles in mind:

Center of Gravity

Keep your hips close to the wall to reduce the pull on your arms. This strategy is known as “staying close to the rock.” It helps you stay balanced and makes climbing easier.

Flagging

This concept involves extending one leg away from the wall to counterbalance your body. It’s a useful rock climbing technique when reaching for a hold far from your centerline.

Twisting and Turning

Use your body’s natural movement to your advantage. Twist your hips and shoulders into the wall to reach further and create more stability.

Intermediate Rock Climbing Techniques: Stepping Up Your Game

Once you’ve got the basics down, it’s time to incorporate more advanced rock climbing techniques. These methods will help you tackle tougher routes and improve your overall performance.

Heel Hooking and Toe Hooking

Heal and toe hooking are advanced techniques that provide additional leverage and stability.

Heel Hooking

This strategy involves hooking your heel over a hold to pull yourself up. It’s particularly useful on overhangs and roofs, where upper body strength alone might not suffice.

Toe Hooking

This method uses the top of your toes to hook onto holds. It’s often employed when you need to maintain body tension and prevent swinging off the wall.

Dynos: Embracing Dynamic Movement

A dynamic move — or dyno — involves leaping from one hold to another. While it requires explosive power and precise timing, mastering dynos can help you navigate routes with spaced-out holds.

Build Momentum

Swing your body to generate momentum before leaping.

Commit Fully

Hesitation can lead to missed holds and potential falls. Commit fully to the move to increase your chances of success.

Crack Climbing: Mastering the Art of Jamming

Crack climbing involves using specific techniques to ascend fissures in the rock. It requires a unique set of skills and can be physically demanding.

Hand Jams

Insert your hand into the crack and expand it by cupping or making a fist to create a secure hold.

Foot Jams

Like hand jams, foot jams involve wedging your foot into the crack and twisting it to lock it in place.

Advanced Rock Climbing Techniques: Elevating to Expert Levels

For those who have mastered the basics and intermediate techniques, advanced rock climbing techniques will push your limits and refine your skills.

Mantling: The Top-Out Technique

Mantling is used to pull yourself up and over a ledge or the top of a climb.

Palm Down

Place your palms down on the ledge and push your body up.

High Feet

Bring your feet up high to create leverage and push off with your legs.

Advanced Footwork: Edging and Smearing

While basic footwork is crucial, advanced techniques like edging and smearing can enhance climbing efficiency.

Edging

Use the edges of your climbing shoes to stand on small holds. This strategy requires precise foot placement and balance.

Smearing

Apply more advanced smearing techniques to maximize friction on smooth surfaces, allowing for better control.

Overcoming Challenges: Common Struggles and Solutions

Rock climbing isn’t just about physical strength — it’s also a mental game. Here are some common challenges men face while climbing and how to overcome them:

Fear of Falling

Even the most seasoned climbers can experience a fear of falling. Here’s how to manage it:

Practice Falls

Familiarize yourself with falling in a controlled environment. This stategy can help reduce anxiety and build confidence.

Visualize Success

Use visualization techniques to imagine successfully completing the climb. This technique can boost your mental resilience.

Plateauing in Progress

Hitting a plateau in your climbing progress can be frustrating. Here’s how to break through:

Try Different Routes

Vary your climbing routes to challenge different muscle groups and techniques.

Set Small Goals

Break down your climbing goals into smaller, achievable milestones. This method keeps you motivated and focused.

Building Endurance

Rock climbing requires stamina and endurance. Here’s how to build it:

Cross-Training

Incorporate cardio and strength training into your routine to build overall fitness.

Rest and Recovery

Allow your body time to recover between climbs to prevent injury and maintain performance.

Gear Up: Essential Equipment for Rock Climbing

Having the right gear is crucial for rock climbing success. Here’s a quick rundown of essential equipment:

Climbing Shoes

When climbing, your feet are among your greatest tools — invest in high-quality climbing shoes that fit snugly and provide excellent grip.

Chalk and Chalk Bag

Keep your hands dry and improve your grip with chalk.

Harness and Belay Device

Ensure your safety with a reliable harness and belay device.

Climbing Rope

Choose a dynamic climbing rope that meets safety standards.

Take the Challenge

Rock climbing is a thrilling and rewarding pursuit that challenges both your body and mind. Mastering these rock climbing techniques will enable you to tackle any wall and elevate your climbing game. Remember, every climb is an opportunity to improve and push your limits. So, gear up, stay ahead of the curve and embrace the climb. The wall is yours to conquer!

The post Proven Rock Climbing Techniques To Conquer Any Wall appeared first on Modded.

What’s the best way to grill a steak? It depends on who you ask. Everyone’s got a different opinion about how to go about it and how cooked it should be. Admittedly, grilling steak can be intimidating, especially if it’s your first time, but it’s actually a straightforward process once you nail down the basics. 

Explore the nuances of grilling a steak to perfection, from selecting the proper cut to monitoring doneness levels, and unlock a world of flavor and tenderness in every bite. Here’s the best way to grill a steak.

Ingredient Notes

First things first, you’ll need to sort out the ingredients for your steak dish. The most important things to gather are: 

• Steaks: Grill masters recommend choosing steaks that are 1.5 – 2 inches thick, though slightly thicker is better than slightly thinner, as thick cuts help retain juiciness and ensure even cooking. 
• Olive oil: You need a high-heat oil to create a beautiful sear on the steaks. Feel free to substitute olive oil with vegetable or canola oil as you see fit. 
• Seasonings: Generally, you want to keep things simple and let the flavor of the meat itself shine through. Some salt, black and white pepper, and any other seasoning of your choice should suffice. 
• Butter: A stick or two of butter helps add juiciness to the steak’s crust. It also prevents the meat from drying out during cooking. 

Choosing the Best Cuts for Grilling

You will usually find three grades of beef steak in a typical supermarket: Select, Choice and Prime. This grading is assigned based on the intramuscular fat marbling of the meat and helps identify its juiciness and tenderness when cooked. 

Select is the leanest of the three, meaning it will most likely dry out during grilling. You’re better off going for Choice or Prime grade steaks, as they have adequate marbling to undergo the fiery process and still come out juicy. 

For the cuts, you’ll find several options: 

• Filet Mignon: Filet is prized for its melt-in-your-mouth texture and delicate flavor. Thanks to its lower fat content, it’s also less likely to cause flare-ups. 
• Sirloin: The lean nature of sirloin steak makes it an excellent choice for health-conscious consumers. It also boasts a distinctive flavor profile that differentiates it from other lean cuts. 
• Ribeye: These ultra-flavorful steaks are the ideal choice for grilling. The ribeye’s higher fat content helps keep the meat juicy even when cooked over very high heat.
• T-Bone and Porterhouse: These cuts offer a combination of textures and flavors. Keep an eye on the bone though, so it doesn’t cause uneven cooking.
• New York Strip: This cut is not the most tender steak, but people love it for its great bite and flavor. The lower fat content means there are fewer flare-ups during grilling. 
• Flank and Skirt Steak: The thinnest and often leanest of the bunch — these cuts are perfect for quick grilling.

Preparing Your Steak

Nailing the prep stage is essential to achieving a perfect cook. For starters, you want the steak to reach room temperature for at least 30 minutes before putting it on the grill. Next, pat the meat dry with paper towels. This will remove all moisture and allow for a nice sear. Continue patting it until you see no more moisture coming off. 

Seasoning the steak comes next. The type of cut will likely determine how you approach this step. Generally, you want to coat the meat in a thick blanket of kosher salt, pepper and garlic powder. Feel free to add other seasonings, but be careful not to overdo it, as too much can overpower the flavor. 

If you’re using leaner meats, it might be best to marinate the steak instead. The lower fat content of these cuts means they require an extra helping of wet seasoning to bring out the flavor profile. To make the marinade, start with olive oil, then whisk in something fresh like herbs and citrus and sweet like honey or maple syrup. 

Grilling the Steak 

Fire up your grill and make sure it’s nice and hot. The best way to grill a steak is to use direct heat — over the flame. This is what gives the meat that beautiful dark char. Place the seasoned steaks on the grill and let the fire do its work. 

The type of cut generally determines how long you let the meat cook before flipping it. For a one-inch steak, grill each side for 3–4 minutes, depending on the desired doneness. Thicker steaks can tarry on the grill a bit longer, especially if you don’t plan on using indirect heat to finish off the cooking. 

Once a side is golden brown and slightly charred, flip it and let the other side cook. Avoid flipping the steak too frequently — aim for just once to ensure even cooking. Use tongs instead of a fork to prevent piercing and losing juices.

When grilling steaks, temperature is more important than time. Grab your digital cooking meat thermometer and insert it into the thickest part of the meat, making sure to avoid the bone and fatty areas. 

Monitoring Doneness

Keep in mind that while you can always return a steak to the grill if it’s not cooked enough to your liking, you can’t undo it if it’s overcooked. That’s why it’s important to monitor the level of doneness carefully. Follow this guideline: 

• Rare: 125°F to 130°F
• Medium-rare: 130°F to 135°F
• Medium: 135°F to 145°F
• Medium-well: 145°F to 150°F
• Well done: 155°F to 160°F

After you remove the steak from the grill, its internal temperature will continue to rise. Experts recommend taking the meat off when it reaches about 5˚ lower than your desired temperature to get that perfect cook inside and out. 

The Thumb Test

If you don’t have a meat thermometer, you’ll have to measure the level of doneness by hand. Don’t worry, it’s a straightforward process.  Lightly touch your thumb to your index finger and feel the fleshy area. 

Rare steak should feel soft with little to no resistance, almost like you’re touching raw meat. Medium-Rare should feel soft yet firmer with a bit of resistance. Medium-Well and Well-Done are generally firm with very little give when pressed. 

Resting and Serving

This is the final step and potentially the most critical. After being on the grill for several minutes, your steaks need to rest so they won’t lose as much juice when cutting into them. 

Culinary expert Martha Stewart recommends letting your steaks rest for half the time you used to cook them. So, if you cook the meat for 16 minutes, let it rest for 8. When resting your steaks, make a little aluminum foil tent around them so they don’t cool down too quickly.

Should You Grill Steak on High or Medium Heat?

You want to start with high heat to give the steak that flavorful char. Make sure your grill temperature is between 450°F and 500°F before placing the meat. 

How to Keep Steak Juicy on the Grill

The best way to keep your steak juicy during grilling is to use tender, well-marbled meat. Ribeye, T-Bone, Porterhouse and Filet Mignon are usually the ideal choices for achieving the perfect balance between juiciness and flavor. 

Master the Best Way to Grill a Steak

The secret behind the best way to grill a steak is that there really is no secret at all. As long as you pay attention to these guidelines and best practices, you’re well on your way to becoming a grill boss in no time. 

The post From Rare to Well-Done: Mastering the Best Way to Grill a Steak appeared first on Modded.

Measuring fitness comes in many different ways. You can run a mile, lift weights or do chin-ups at the gym. However, it doesn’t get much better than the classic pushup. This exercise engages your entire body and provides a solid workout. Unfortunately, some guys mess them up due to improper form or slacking. Here’s how to do a pushup correctly and fun variations to challenge your body. 

How to Do a Pushup Correctly

Remember gym class when the coach would get mad if you did an exercise wrong? Those days are over. Here’s how to do a pushup correctly by focusing on the form. Lay the foundation for the pushup to make it more manageable. 

1. Start With the Hands

Your hands determine the pushup movement, so start by setting them flat on the floor. Align your hands with your hips and ensure your fingers point forward. Letting your hands face outward could feel awkward, and inward is a variation you can learn later. First, you must know how to do a traditional pushup.  

2. Adjust Your Feet

Next, your feet must be in an optimal position. Like the hands, your feet should align with your hips. Some guys keep their feet together, but this idea isn’t optimal. Give your feet space in between to make the pushup easier. Do you need shoes for pushups? Footwear is a personal preference. Test the exercise with and without shoes to see your comfort level.

3. Position Your Back 

Research shows 28% of American adults report having back pain. How can you mitigate it? Start with a good pushup form for your back. Position your back so it slightly curves upward. While you don’t want an arch, you don’t need an incredibly straight line from your head to your heels. Imagine your head, back, glutes and legs as an obtuse triangle. 

4. Align Your Head

The head is another crucial position for alignment. Shoulder alignment is a common theme, and you’ll replicate it here. Adjust your head to align with your shoulders, but don’t feel obligated to look up. You could unnecessarily strain your neck and injure your head. Tuck in your chin and stare slightly down at the ground. A slight tilt will suffice your head and reduce the injury risk.

5. Do the Pushup

Now, it’s time for the show to begin. Lower your body near the ground, but don’t let your stomach or knees touch the floor. Focus on your abs and hips to engage your core. A proper pushup aims to touch the ground with your chest. Do each rep slowly to ensure your body gets the most from resistance. Quick pushups don’t test your muscles as much!

6. Avoid Crucial Mistakes

Pushups can be hard on your first attempt, so it can be tempting to mess them up. However, you shouldn’t let your body compromise the exercise. Here are a few mistakes to avoid when positioning your pushup:

• Flaring the elbows: When your elbows are out, you unnecessarily strain your shoulder. Keep your elbows tucked in and close to your body. 
• Not going down: Lowering your body seems easy, but it prepares the elevation. Get your chest as close to the ground as possible to maximize your pushups. 
• Rushing the reps: Take your time with the pushups because they are an incredible workout for your body. Quick reps encourage poor form and wasted exercise. 

How to Do a Pushup Variation 

Practice the traditional pushup until you feel comfortable with the exercise. Once you’ve mastered it, you can practice variations. 

What is the point of these alternatives? Learning how to do a pushup variation makes it harder and targets other parts of your body. Here are six alternate pushups to learn. 

1. Clap

This pushup is among the most popular variations because it can impress your friends. As the name suggests, you clap your hands each time you push your body in the air. You’ll need more power to elevate your body in the air long enough for your hands to touch. Your body should land on the ground like usual, so readjust your hands to prepare for the next rep. 

2. Diamond

Diamond pushups are among the most popular alternatives because of their muscle benefits. This variation improves your bench press and increases muscle mass in your triceps, making them worth a shot. Do a diamond pushup by forming a triangle with your left and right hands. Your thumbs and index fingers should touch. The rest of the pushup should proceed like normal. 

3. Military

Military pushups get their name from their difficulty, demonstrating how gruesome training can be in the armed forces. The difference between the two styles is the arm placement. Military pushups are more difficult because your arms are closer to your sides, thus challenging your triceps and lats. Add military pushups to your tricep workout regimen to add muscle definition. 

4. One-Foot Elevated

How can you focus on your legs during your pushups? Try doing the traditional pushup while elevating one leg each time. This position may initially feel awkward, but the pressure builds strength. The leg on the ground feels the resistance and is terrific on leg day. Do 10 reps on one leg before alternating with the other. Increase the load as you perfect the exercise.

5. Sphinx

Have you been to Egypt? If not, you can recreate the Sphinx at home with this pushup variation. Sphinx pushups are another terrific tricep exercise because they push the tension to the bottom of your arms. Do a sphinx pushup by lowering your body into a plank position. Unlike regular pushups, your elbows touch the ground. Use your arms to push your body up and down.

6. Spiderman

The Spiderman pushup is one of the most complicated alternatives you can do. Imagine your personal trainer combined pushups with mountain climbers because that’s what this variation looks like. Each rep requires moving one leg toward your shoulder, alternating legs with each movement. You might get weird looks in the gym, but it’s effective. While pushups work your core muscles, this variation is tremendous for your abs. 

How to Do a Pushup the Right Way

Pushups are a classic gym class exercise. While they can be challenging, they’re a worthwhile workout regimen because they transform your entire body. Learning how to do a pushup and its variations is a game-changer for your fitness routine. 

The post You’re Doing Pushups Wrong — Here’s How to Correct Them appeared first on Modded.

Regular maintenance, such as checking oil levels or changing your engine coolant, not only helps your vehicle last longer and perform better, but it also provides peace of mind when you’re on the road. You know, for the most part, your car will not break down. Consistent maintenance also helps prevent major issues that could ruin your trip(s), like overheating, head gasket leaks, and much more.

Some may not know that the coolant system needs maintenance, including filling the fluids, sometimes changing, and flushing to remove contaminants that have built up inside. It is called a radiator flush. Moreover, the coolant levels need to be checked, not unlike oil, to make sure there are no serious leaks. So, knowing how to change your engine coolant, check coolant levels, and flush the system are critical skills. This informative guide is going to walk you through all of that. Let’s get started.

What Does Engine Coolant Do?

But first, a primer on engine coolant and the radiator. Exactly what does coolant do?

Engine coolant is a liquid added to the coolant system. It cycles through the radiator to prevent engine damage from freezing or boiling temperatures. Because the engine produces lots of heat while running, the liquid effectively transfers it away, keeping everything from overheating.

In cold climates, it’s designed not to freeze inside the engine while also protecting its components. That’s why it’s important to use the right type of coolant for your vehicle, but also the right type of coolant for the season and local conditions. Coolant will typically come in one of three types: Inorganic Additive Technology (IAT), Organic Acid Technology (OAT) and Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT). In most cases, a quick search online will tell you which is needed for your make and model.

While today’s advanced vehicles can sometimes go decades or longer without needing a coolant change, that’s not always the case. It’s still essential to check coolant levels to ensure there are no leaks and ensure you have the proper coolant in your vehicle. It’s also great to know how to change your engine coolant or check the levels in case of a problem.

Changing the fuel, oil, and air filters, rotating the tires, changing brake pads, monitoring the radiator and checking coolant levels are some of the most critical car maintenance items to consider.

Why Checking Your Coolant Matters

Your car’s cooling system is integral to normal operation, and the radiator and engine coolant play a big part. Combustion engines create energy by burning fuel, with combustion temperatures ranging from 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit to 4,500 degrees Fahrenheit. Engine coolant helps keep those temperatures regulated. 

Your vehicle may overheat without enough coolant to transfer some of the heat away from the engine. Worse yet, that can eventually damage some of the engine’s components, leading to significant malfunctions later. There are a few reasons your car’s engine might overheat, but one of the more common causes is low coolant or a lack thereof.

A leak is also a problem, as eventually, enough coolant will not be left in the system. However, it can also be a source of contamination, dirtying the coolant fluid or making it less effective over time. Common signs of a leak include fluid puddles under your car, low coolant levels observed, an overheating engine, and a sweet smell around your vehicle. The only way to recognize these problems — before they create a massive headache — is to regularly check your coolant levels to ensure there’s enough in the system. While doing this, you can also check the coolant fluid’s color, which will give you some indication of your coolant system and radiator’s health.

How to Check Coolant Levels

From here on out, you’ll need a dedicated workspace, which means you might need to create one. The garage or driveway is a great choice, but you’ll need plenty of room and a safe, open area where nothing can get in your way. The good news is that once you have a spot, you can also use it for oil changes and other DIY car maintenance tasks.

Safety Tip: Don’t check your coolant levels while the engine is on, and if the car has been driven recently, let it cool off before you pop the hood.

1. Open the hood of your vehicle and identify the coolant reservoir. It’s a dedicated tank for checking coolant levels and refilling. Usually, it’s made of clear or white plastic.
2. Carefully remove the cap from the reservoir and ensure it’s full of coolant. Coolant fluid comes in various colors, such as blue, red, green, or even yellow. Don’t be alarmed by the color itself.
3. Inspect the fluid for discoloration. If you notice small particles, rusty residue, oils or sludge, it’s a sign that there may be a leak somewhere. If the coolant is colorless, that’s also a problem, and you’ll want to have your vehicle inspected by a mechanic.
4. It’s okay if the coolant needs to be topped up a little. However, if fluid levels are extremely low, you have a leak. That needs to be repaired before you take any extended road trips. Optionally, you can also use a device called a “Coolant Tester” to assess the quality of the coolant in your system.

How to Put Coolant in Cars

Provided there are no major leaks, you can simply fill your vehicle’s coolant reservoir. While some older cars do not have a reservoir, it’s not common enough to be a problem.

It’s important to note that you cannot put pure, undiluted coolant fluid into the system. You must make a mixture of 50/50 concentrated coolant and distilled water or buy a diluted coolant solution from an auto store. Most modern forms of coolant come ready to use and are already mixed.

It is also important not to mix different types of coolant by putting more than one type in your vehicle’s system. If you change coolant fluid types, you must first flush out the system — which is precisely why we’re explaining how to flush coolant in this guide.

How to Change Engine Coolant

It depends on who you talk to, but most auto manufacturers recommend changing the coolant every 30,000 miles or so. Others, like Chevrolet, recommend flushing and changing at 150,000 miles.

You’ll first need to flush out the system to change the type of coolant fluid in your vehicle, such as going from a high-temperature solution to one meant for cold climates. The only exception is if you’re adding more of the same fluid.

1. If the vehicle was recently used, turn off the engine and allow it time to cool down. When it’s ready, open the hood.
2. Jack up the car and make sure it’s secure — so it won’t roll or fall.
3. Locate the radiator and look for the radiator drain or petcock. It’s usually positioned on the low part of the radiator and held in place with a single screw.
4. Position a large drain pan or bucket below the area and allow it to drain.

If your vehicle does not have a radiator drain, you’ll simply need to loosen and open a connected hose like the auxiliary coolant pump line. It will likely be messy and may take longer to drain.

With the old coolant drained, now’s a great time to flush out the system and clean it.

How to Flush Coolant Systems the Right Way

There are cleaning chemicals and mixtures you can purportedly use to flush out the coolant system, but your best choice will always be distilled water since that’s what you mix coolant with anyway.

If you opened a line or the radiator drain in the previous step, close everything back up before moving on with the flush. 

1. Fill the system with distilled water and nothing else by pouring it into the reservoir. 
2. Wait a minute or two, then start the car and let it run for a few minutes. That will allow the engine to heat up, open the thermostat, and cycle the distilled water through the system.
3. Turn off the engine and let the car cool down.
4. Once the engine is cool, you can drain the distilled water like you drained the coolant in the previous step. Open the radiator drain or use a hose if there isn’t a drain.

Pay attention to the water that drains out of the system. At first, it might have some color, but if it’s persistent throughout, you may need to do another flush. You’re good to go if you see clear water coming out. You can repeat the coolant flushing process as often as needed.

What Does It Mean to Bleed a Coolant System?

Bleeding or “burping” a system is necessary to remove air bubbles from a liquid or oil-based solution. For example, you may also need to bleed the brake lines when you change or adjust brake pads. Air bubbles in the coolant line can reduce efficiency, causing more overheating or component damage and may even result in catalyzed engine wear.

After flushing the coolant system, you should also make a habit of bleeding it.

How to Bleed Coolant Systems: Remove Air from the Lines

1. With the car still jacked up, remove the radiator cap on top of the radiator. If there’s an overflow tank, remove the cap from that tank instead.
2. OPTIONAL: If you have a newer vehicle, locate the bleeding valve on the radiator. This is optional because not all cars have one. It looks like a small screw protruding out. Open the valve before adding coolant by loosening it. You may hear air escape before coolant leaks out.
3. Using a funnel that fits perfectly inside the cap hole — you may need an adapter to create a tight seal — slowly pour coolant into the system. You want to add about two to three liters per minute, enough to cycle the coolant and create a flow but steady enough so you’re not adding more air bubbles.
4. Pour until the coolant level reaches the ‘full’ mark on the inside of the tank, if using the overflow tank, or until it brims at the top of the radiator. Leave the funnel and seal in place. If you’re using the bleeding valve method when you see pure coolant leaking out and no air, you can close the valve.
5. Clear the engine, turn on the car and crank the AC to full heat. This will open up the heater core, and you can rev the engine a little to speed up the process.
6. As the engine heats, bubbles may appear or “burp” out of the funnel. You want this, and the process is bleeding out the air.
7. The coolant may rise or fall. This is okay. However, if the coolant in the reservoir drops below the “full” mark, add more and continue bleeding.
8. Turn off the engine and let it cool down. The coolant level may drop as it cools. You can top up with more, but be careful not to overfill.
9. Remove the funnel and close up the tank(s) or system when finished.

That’s it! You’ve bled the air bubbles out of your radiator and coolant system.

How to Change Engine Coolant: Refilling the System

If you followed the steps to flush out your system and bleed the air bubbles, your coolant should have already been replaced. If not, the best way to refill and refresh coolant is to simply pour it slowly into the main reservoir or tank.

Remember, you must use the same coolant, and you should never mix different types together and add them to the system. Just the standard 50/50 mixture with distilled water and concentrated coolant will do.

Take It for a Drive!

Now that you’ve learned how to change your engine coolant and done the maintenance, it’s time to enjoy the fruits of your labor. Start up the car and take it for a nice drive. As a reward for your hard-earned time, get yourself a cold beverage or some ice cream.

Remember, just like the oil, windshield washer fluid, and other fluids in your vehicle, you should check the coolant levels from time to time. This is to help spot a leak early before it causes damage and ensure there’s enough coolant in the system to keep it running optimally. You can also quickly check for residues, sludge, and other contaminants that might have made it into the coolant from a leak.

Regularly scheduled maintenance is the way to go, helping you catch potential problems before they become a major hindrance. This is especially important if it’s your primary vehicle, as you want to keep it running for years to come.

Not sure that coolant is really your issue? At Modded, we’ve got you covered. Check out our list of common car engine problems (and how to solve them) or go beyond the engine with our list of DIY car repairs anyone can take on.

The post How to Change Your Engine Coolant appeared first on Modded.

Brake pads are small, but vital pieces of your vehicle. With the rotor, caliper assembly and a little help from some brake fluid, they’re responsible for bringing your car to a stop, and keeping the roads safe. If you need to replace them, you should know how to change brake pads the right way.

How Much Does it Cost to Change Brake Pads?

The cost will vary depending on whether you decide to change the brakes yourself or hire a professional, but the final expense should fall within the following price ranges.

• Parts and tools cost between $35 and $150.
• Labor costs between $80 and $120 per axle.
• Total cost: between $115 and $300

If you opt for a DIY project, you only need to acquire the right parts. Keep in mind that auto manufacturers price their parts differently, so your car’s parts might be more expensive than other vehicles. If you want to hire a professional, their hourly rates have a wide range and will have the most impact on the bottom line. Make sure you research at least a few body shops in your area to get the best deal.

How to Change Brake Pads by Yourself

Changing brake pads by yourself isn’t necessarily easy, but the process is straightforward enough compared to other mechanical fixes. First, make sure you have enough space to complete the project. A flat driveway or one-car garage should suffice. Then, you have to purchase the right parts and tools. Here’s what you’ll need:

• Brake pads, rotors, fluid and cleaner
• Disc brake pad spreader set
• Floor jack, jack stand
• Torque wrench, other essential tools
• Eye protection, gloves

Once you have everything you need, park your car and clear out the surrounding area to have more floor space. You’re ready to get started!

1. Inspect the Brakes

First, you should perform a close inspection of your current brake pads. They usually wear out at around the 50,000-mile mark, but that number dramatically varies. Consult your owner’s manual for the correct estimate and look for the telltale signs. Worn-down brakes tend to make squeaking and grinding noises when the car slows down and a slight bounce when the car comes to a stop. 

You should also check your brake fluid level. If the reservoir has too much fluid, it can move around and spill onto other parts while you work on the car. Remove a little bit of fluid if necessary.

2. Loosen the Lug Nuts

Loosen the lug nuts on your wheels with a breaker bar and socket so they’re easier to take off when you lift the vehicle into place. The disc brake pad spreader set should include these tools. Some lug nuts may be more challenging to remove than others, so it’s best to put your weight on the wrench for extra leverage. 

3. Lift the Car into Position

Put the floor jack into place and slowly lift the car. Place the jack stands in spots that support the vehicle’s weight, then slowly lower the car again until it rests comfortably on the stands. With the car in place, you’re ready to begin removing parts.

4. Remove the Lug Nuts, Wheels and Caliper Bolts

Take out the lug nuts that you loosened earlier, then remove the wheel. Now you should see the caliper bolts. If they’re not visible, turn the steering wheel slightly until you can see them. Use the torque wrench to unscrew them. Removing the caliper bolts will allow you to take apart the other important parts of the caliper assembly.

5. Remove the Old Brake Pads and Rotor

Remove the old pads and inspect them for uneven or excessive wear. Those patterns usually mean that the brake pads lack enough lubrication, which can significantly decrease the pads’ lifespan. From there, remove the brake caliper, brake caliper bracket and rotor in that order. These parts should come off if you unscrew the caliper bolts correctly. A rusty rotor might stick, so get help from a rust penetrant or a hammer if necessary.

6. Prepare the Rotor Mounting Surface, New Rotor and Brake Pads

With all of the parts removed, you can prepare to install the new brake pads. Start by cleaning the rotor mounting surface with a wire brush, steel wool or another thick substance to remove rust. Use the brake cleaner to wipe off the rotor and new brake pads (they might be new, but you should still clean them before attaching them). Your new pads should come with their own clips, but if they didn’t,  clean off your old clips as well. 

7. Attach the New Rotor and Pads

Attach the rotor, then apply brake lubricant at the clip contact points. After using the lubricant, install the brake pads in the same position as you found the old pads. It’s helpful to take photos during this process so you can reference them later on.

8. Inspect the Brake Caliper and Piston

Check the brake caliper and piston for any fluid leaks. If everything looks dry and clean, use the disc brake pad spreader to secure the caliper piston. Once the piston is secure, you’re ready to reinstall the brake caliper.

9. Adjust the Caliper Assembly

Put the brake caliper back into place. Tighten it only as much as you need to. If a caliper is too tight, it restricts the braking process and can quickly damage the brake pads. Use a torque wrench to get adequate tightness.

10. Make Sure the Brake Fluid is Working

Look at the brake fluid reservoir for any spillage or overflow. If you have a sufficient amount, pump your car’s brakes lightly to make sure the fluid has reached the brakes and is doing its job.

11. Reattach the Wheel and Lower the Vehicle

Put the wheel back into place and secure it with the lug nuts. Use the jack to raise the vehicle off the stands, remove the stands and promptly lower the car back down to the ground. If you got this far, you’ve successfully changed a brake pad on your vehicle!

12. Bed the Brakes

To be 100% sure that your DIY project worked, take the car out for an easygoing test drive. Accelerate to a decent highway speed, then slow down to about half the speed and stay in cruise control for a few minutes. Repeat this process several times so you successfully “bed the brakes” and prepare them for full-time use. 

How to Change Brake Fluid

1. Ensure You Have the Correct Tools

Make sure you have the tools needed to successfully change your vehicle’s brake fluid.

• Brake fluid (make sure to use the type specified in your vehicle’s manual)
• Wrench or brake bleeder wrench
• Clear plastic tubing
• Brake bleeder kit
• Jack and jack stands or a vehicle lift
• Wheel chocks
• Turkey baster or similar tool
• Container for old brake fluid
• Safety glasses and gloves

2. Preparation

Park your vehicle on a flat surface. Use the wheel chocks to prevent the car from moving or rolling backwards. Look at the car manual to ensure you use the correct brake fluid.

3. Raise the Vehicle

Use a jack lift to lift the car and place it securely on jack stands. Ensure the vehicle is stable before you begin working underneath it.

4. Locate the Master Cylinder

Open the hood and locate the brake master cylinder reservoir. You can typically find this near the back of the engine bay, toward the driver’s side.

5. Remove Old Fluid

Using a turkey baster or similar tool, remove as much old brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder reservoir. Be careful not to spill brake fluid, as it can damage paint and other surfaces. 

6. Refill With New Brake Fluid

Refill the cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid to the recommended level.

7. Bleed the Brakes

Starting with the brake furthest from the cylinder — usually the right back — locate the brake bleeder valve on the brake caliper or wheel cylinder. Attach a clear plastic tube on the bleeder valve, with the other end submerged in a container partially filled with brake fluid to prevent air from entering the system. 

Have someone help you pump the brake pedal several times, then hold it down. Loosen the bleeder valve slightly to allow fluid and air to escape. Once the fluid runs clear without bubbles, tighten the valve and instruct someone to release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until only clear fluid comes out of the bleeder valve. 

8. Repeat for All Wheels

Follow the specific bleeding sequence in your vehicle’s manual. Refill the master cylinder with new fluid as needed to prevent it from running dry.

9. Check for Leaks

Once you’ve bled all the brakes, check the bleeder valves and master cylinder for any leaks. Tighten them as necessary.

10. Lower the Vehicle

Carefully lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the jack.

11. Do Final Checks

Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir once last time, and top it off if necessary. Pump the brake pedal to ensure it feels firm. If it feels spongy, there may still be air in the system, and you’ll need to bleed the brakes again.

How Long Do Brake Pads Last?

Your brake pads should last around 50,000 miles, but it all depends on the make and model of your vehicle. Aggressive driving with harsh braking and carrying heavy loads can significantly reduce brake pad life, sometimes as low as 15,000 miles. On the other hand, gentle driving can extend it to 70,000 miles or more. Organic pads wear out faster, generally lasting 20,000 to 40,000 miles, while semi-metallic and ceramic pads are much more durable, often lasting 30,000 to 70,000 miles. 

When to Replace Brake Pads

Signs that brake pads need replacement include squealing or screeching noises, grinding sounds, reduced braking performance, a brake warning light and visual inspection showing pad thickness below ¼ inch. If you notice that the car is vibrating more than usual, it may actually suggest that you’re due for a tire rotation instead.

Inspect your brake pads regularly, avoid aggressive braking and maintaining the braking system can help extend the life of your brake pads and ensure vehicle safety. 

How Often to Replace Brake Rotors

You generally need to replace rotors every 50,000 to 80,000 miles, though this can vary based on driving habits, vehicle type and rotor quality. Aggressive driving, frequent hard braking and driving in hilly or mountainous areas can accelerate wear, requiring more frequent replacements. Additionally, driving in conditions that expose rotors to a lot of dirt and debris — such as off-road driving — can also shorten their life span. 

Signs that you need to replace your rotors include vibrations or pulsations in the brake pedal, scoring or grooves on the rotor surface and a noticeable reduction in braking performance. You can identify worn or damaged rotors by regularly inspecting them and doing routine maintenance. Maintaining the entire braking system can extend the life of your rotors. 

How to Replace Brake Rotors

To replace your brake rotors, you’ll need the following:

• Jack and jack stands
• Lug wrench
• Socket set and ratchet 
• C-clamp or brake caliper tool
• Brake cleaner
• New brake rotors
• Torque wrench

1. Prepare Your Car

Park the car on an even surface. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels slightly before jacking up the car. Use a jack to lift the vehicle and secure it on jack stands. 

2. Remove the Wheel and Brake Caliper

Fully remove the lug nuts and the wheel. Locate the brake caliper and remove the bolts holding it in place using a socket wrench. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor and suspend it using a piece of wire or a bungee cord. Don’t let it hang by the brake hose. 

3. Remove the Caliper Bracket and Old Rotor

Remove the bolts securing the caliper bracket to the knuckle. Slide the old rotor off the wheel hub. If it’s stuck, tap it gently with a rubber mallet. 

4. Install the New Rotor

Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove any protective coating. Place the new rotor onto the wheel hub.

5. Reassemble the Brakes

Reattach the caliper bracket and torque the bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications. Compress the brake caliper piston using a C-clamp or brake caliper tool. Reinstall the brake caliper over the new rotor and secure it with bolts.

6. Reinstall the Wheel

Put the wheel back on, hand-tighten the lug nuts, then lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications. 

7. Test the Brakes

Press the brake pedal a few times to ensure the caliper piston is correctly seated. Test drive the vehicle at low speeds to ensure everything is working correctly. While it’s not always necessary, it’s best to change brake pads and rotors at the same time. Both parts work together to optimize braking performance.

Know Your Vehicle

Every car owner should be well-versed in mechanical terms and practices because you never know when you’ll have to fix something yourself. Professional body shops are valuable resources for major fixes, but you should know the basics of how to swap brake pads and make other small changes to your vehicle. If you think you’re up to the challenge, follow this step-by-step guide to changing brake pads so you can get back on the road!

Originally published 2/21/2022 — Updated 6/10/2024

The post How to Change the Brake Pads on Your Car appeared first on Modded.

What guy doesn’t want to own a fish? They’re quiet, low-maintenance and fun to watch — the perfect pet. If you want one but don’t know where to start, we can help. Here’s a complete guide on how to take care of a fish in a freshwater tank. 

The Best Types of Pet Fishes for Beginners

Low-maintenance, interesting fish are usually the best fish as pets for beginners. Here are some popular freshwater species.

Bettas

Bettas come in dozens of types and colors. They enjoy living alone and can live for up to seven years, making them great for beginners. Longfin, opaque and peaceful are some of the hardiest and least aggressive subspecies.

Mollies

The common molly is a small tropical fish. It prefers to be around other mollies but will live peacefully alongside bettas and tetras. It’s not a picky eater and is generally hardy.

Kuhli Loach

The Kuhli Loach is an eel-like nocturnal fish that enjoys burrowing and scavenging. Despite its odd, exotic appearance, learning how to take care of a fish like this is surprisingly simple.  

Tetras

Tetras are great for guys with little to no aquarium experience because they’re peaceful, resilient and energetic. The black phantom tetra and neon tetra are popular subspecies because they look great and make excellent tankmates.

Guppies

Guppies are tropical fish. Even though they look exotic, they’re surprisingly low maintenance because they’re small and friendly. Be careful, though — they’re notorious for breeding fast. Unless you want tons of baby fish, choose only males or females.

How to Take Care of a Fish Tank and Its Freshwater Fish

Learning how to take care of a fish can feel overwhelming at first, but don’t worry — it’ll eventually feel like second nature. For now, prioritize the basics. Ask yourself, “What does a fish need to survive?” Its diet and living conditions are the only things you need to focus on at first.

What you feed your fish depends on its type. Every species needs different nutrients and prefers different flavors. For example, while bettas enjoy fish flakes, kuhli loaches need sinking pellets. As a treat, you can occasionally supplement flakes or pellets with foods like water fleas, bloodworms or freeze-fried brine shrimp.

Other than their diet, living conditions should be your main priority. Regardless of species, every fish needs light, clean water and proper filtration to survive. Your tank should check all of these boxes before you get your pet.

Everything You Need for a Fish Tank

So, what does a fish need to survive? Of course, it needs a tank. Opt for glass over acrylic if possible — it’s cheaper and more scratch-resistant. A 10-gallon tank is the ideal size for beginners because it’s manageable. Besides, anything smaller is inhumane for most species. 

You also need a filter — mechanical, chemical or biological — to remove debris and toxins, making your tank safe for fish. Lighting-wise, fluorescent or LED are your best bet because they’re energy-efficient and compact. 

Heaters are essential if the temperature in your tank’s room fluctuates. Lighting, weather and seasons can affect water temperature, so consider getting one to be safe. You can choose from the hanging, submersible or in-line options. Getting a thermometer is also a good idea since it helps you ensure your equipment is working right.

An air pump keeps the water oxygenated so your fish can breathe. It also helps your heater distribute heat evenly instead of in pockets, which helps your fish stay healthy and keeps their stress levels down.

You might need optional aquarium maintenance equipment. While you don’t necessarily need a siphon and bucket, they make tank cleaning much more manageable. Funnily enough, a bucket can also make a great temporary tank if you ever need to quarantine an aggressive or sick fish. 

How to Set up a Freshwater Fish Tank

While specifics vary depending on the species, most freshwater fish have similar requirements. Here are some aquarium tips to help you figure out how to set up a freshwater fish tank.

1. Arrange Your Fish Tank

Place your tank on a sturdy stand out of direct sunlight and away from windows to minimize temperature fluctuations. Once you’ve set up your lights, filter, heater and air pump, it’s time to dump your aquarium substrate — polished gravel, pebbles, sand or river stone — in. 

Aquascaping — arranging plants, driftwood and rocks — is a great way to make your tank look interesting and provide enrichment. Most freshwater fish love waterweeds, java fern, algae and anubias nana. Remember to rinse everything off to make the water less cloudy. 

2. Cycle Your Tank’s Water

You must cycle water — meaning build up good, nitrifying bacteria — to create biologically safe conditions for your fish. Consider getting a limnology test kit to test for water quality parameters like nitrate, pH, carbon dioxide, dissolved oxygen and more. 

Slowly fill your tank up, waiting for the cloudiness to clear, and then drop a few fish flakes in. Wait a few days and then do an ammonia test. Aim for at least three parts per million (ppm). Add flakes daily, testing every other day, until you hit three ppm.

At one week, test for nitrites. If you detect them, the nitration cycle has begun. Keep adding flakes daily, letting them decay. When nitrites suddenly drop and nitrates rise, you’re at the cycle’s final stage. You can add fish when the nitrite and ammonia levels reach zero ppm.

3. Slowly Introduce Your Fish 

Introduce your fish slowly since too many may drive nitrite and ammonia up to unsafe levels. Place your pet in a bucket, slowly adding a small amount of water every five to ten minutes. Once the bucket’s contents are roughly 50% to 75% tank water, your fish will be adjusted. 

The second method is to place the bag your fish came in in your tank and let it float for some time so the water temperature adjusts. Then, slowly open the bag to let the tank water in. This way, your fish can adapt to the pH difference. 

Aquarium Tips for Keeping a Healthy Tank

Part of learning how to take care of a fish involves knowing when to conduct aquarium maintenance. Keeping a healthy tank takes time and knowledge, but seeing your pet thrive is worth the effort. 

Freshwater aquariums’ temperatures should range from 72°F to 82°F, ideally. Tropical species may prefer warmer conditions. Make sure sunlight, air conditioning, weather and seasonal changes don’t affect how warm your tank’s water is.

Regularly test your water’s pH, ammonia, carbon dioxide and nitrite levels to ensure it stays livable. Changes over time are normal — pH naturally drops over time, for example — but too big of a change can stress your pet and make the tank inhabitable. 

Change the water if your tests show some water quality parameters are too high or low. You generally want to do this anyway — change about 10% to 25% once weekly. Remember to add water conditioner to tap water to balance pH and eliminate chlorine before refilling. 

Tank cleanliness is a huge part of aquarium maintenance. Remove excess algae and take care of cloudy water. A siphon and bucket make keeping a healthy tank much easier since they allow you to drain water faster and remove debris at the bottom of your aquarium. 

Things to Look Out for in Your Fish Tank

Water quality is one of the biggest things to look out for as you continue learning how to take care of a fish tank. Generally, it should stay clear and have little to no smell. If you notice it getting cloudy or yellowing, double-check that your equipment is working correctly. 

Another one of the most important things to look out for is signs of sickness. Discoloration, lethargy, tilting, sagging fins, sinking or floating are signs your fish is stressed, sick or infected. Act quickly, depending on the species and symptoms, to help it get better as soon as possible.

Looking to learn about even more exotic pets? Check out our beginner’s guide to keeping pet snakes!

The post How to Take Care of a Fish Tank: The One-Stop Aquarium Guide appeared first on Modded.

Tire rotation is vital to keeping your vehicle roadworthy. It’s not car maintenance 101, though. Wondering how to rotate tires rarely crosses the average motorist’s mind since service technicians generally handle this task. Many car owners are unaware of it being a thing, while others are disinterested in it because it needs some elbow grease.

However, doing it is one thing. Knowing how to when needed is another. A proper understanding of tire rotation is a badge of honor for gearheads.

For non-auto enthusiasts, this skill can make you more self-sufficient, boost your confidence as a car owner, and save you trips to the mechanic — not to mention cash — on many occasions.

Are you ready to get your hands dirty? Let’s get started!

What Does It Mean to Rotate Tires?

Rotating your tires means periodically changing each of your tires’ positions on your vehicle. If you’ve owned your automobile long enough, the service crew has likely rotated its tires for you during past scheduled maintenance sessions.

There’s a science behind tire rotation, so you can’t just remove all wheels and assign them to random axles. Incorrect orientation does more harm than good, so ensure you know which one goes where before jacking up your vehicle and picking up your lug wrench.

Why Do You Rotate Tires?

Changing your vehicle’s tire positions regularly is crucial to ensure even treadwear. Front tires generally wear the fastest, regardless of the drivetrain. These tires bear the brunt of acceleration, steering and braking.

In front-wheel drive (FWD) vehicles, the engine transmits power to the front wheels, which are responsible for steering and traction, causing their rubber to wear more quickly. Rear-wheel drive (RWD), all-wheel drive (AWD) and four-wheel drive (4WD) systems distribute power more evenly to all wheels, resulting in more balanced wear across front and rear tires.

Regardless of your vehicle’s drivetrain, tire rotation is necessary for various reasons.

Tire and Suspension Longevity

Not rotating your tires as frequently as you should will lead to unequal tread loss, especially when combined with aggressive driving maneuvers. Tires don’t last forever but should age at the same rate. Otherwise, you’d have to retire them ahead of what their treadwear grade suggests.

Replacing a worn-out tire is more expensive than you think. If the problem tire is too damaged relative to the others, you may have to buy at least one set, doubling your expense. You may often have to replace all four to eliminate any imbalance.

Also, there’s no wiggle room regarding tire options. Unless you’re replacing them all, you must stick with the remaining set’s brand, model and specifications. Any mismatch can negatively affect your drivetrain’s integrity and your vehicle’s drivability.

Uneven tread loss can produce unusual vibrations that can damage your suspension system prematurely. The faster you go, the more intense the vibration.

Safety

2022 saw 562 people die from tire-related accidents, so skipping tire rotation is a serious road safety issue. Wear unevenness increases friction by forcing your tires to move at various speeds. More friction translates to more heat. High temperatures accelerate treadwear, starting a vicious cycle.

Hydroplaning — when your vehicle slides on the road uncontrollably — is another cause for concern. Treads produce traction, allowing you to properly steer your vehicle when the rubber meets the road.

Losing substantial tread depth due to significant wear diminishes your tires’ grip on surfaces, especially during inclement weather. It can cause your vehicle to go where it shouldn’t inadvertently. Tires optimized for gripping into snow and ice may spin out of control under slippery conditions with irregular treads.

You’re more likely to encounter blowouts when you seldom rotate your tires. A super worn-out tire develops a thin spot after experiencing extreme strain. The thinner this soft underbelly becomes, the more prone it is to being punctured upon contact with any sharp object.

Bringing a spare tire and knowing the best practices when dealing with a blowout on a highway — such as demobilizing your vehicle, making yourself prominently visible to other motorists and inflating a doughnut tire to at least 60 pounds per square inch — helps. Still, the terror of hearing a loud noise out of nowhere can cause you to lose your grip amid high-speed traffic.

Comfort

Smooth rides owe themselves to evenly worn tires. If you commute often and are familiar with how your vehicle normally feels on the road, you may sense something strange when treadwear unevenness becomes undeniable. This experience can cause physical and mental discomfort, distracting you from driving properly.

Fuel Efficiency

Rotating your tires is a surefire way to get more miles per gallon, boost your vehicle’s fuel economy and reduce your regular auto expenses. Your vehicle’s engine detects insufficient traction and compensates by using more gas or diesel to help you stay in control.

Warranty Adherence

Regular rotation is one of the requirements to keep your tire warranty valid. Falling short of this expectation voids this written guarantee, absolving your tires’ manufacturer of any responsibility to address any legitimate product defects.

Auto Insurance Premium Stagnation

Disproportionate treadwear can indirectly inflate your car insurance rate. Your driving record is a significant factor dictating whether your premium will go up or down. It reflects your car maintenance commitment as well as your ticket and accident histories.

Preserving a spotless driving record is challenging without uneven tire wear, which, by default, renders your vehicle less roadworthy. Even skilled motorheads are prone to crashes when behind the wheel of a less drivable sedan, hatchback or light-duty truck.

If you file a claim after getting into a vehicular accident due to a highly worn-out tire, you’ll give your insurance carrier to jack up your premium — a double whammy.

When to Rotate Tires

The average rotation interval is 6,000-8,000 miles, but some tire makers may deviate from this typical range. To precisely know how often to rotate tires, check your tire manufacturer’s recommendation — or requirement when you still have an active warranty.

Furthermore, you may have to rotate ahead of schedule for various reasons.

You Can’t Remember the Last Time

Driving infrequently may seem to slow tire deterioration, but it isn’t necessarily the case. Hitting the road with underinflated tires erodes tread mileage, slashing a considerable portion of your tires’ expected service life.

Spending less time on the road may lull you into a false sense of security that your tires’ treads are still deep enough for ample traction. When you can’t recall your vehicle’s last rotation session because it takes you forever to hit the mileage threshold, it may be a sign you need to pay more attention to tire maintenance.

Look for evidence of unequal tread loss. If one of your tires seems to be losing more rubber than the others, rotate and inflate them accordingly. You can skip replacement when the tread depth in your front tires’ major grooves is 4/32 inch or deeper while that of your rear ones is 2/32 inch.

You Can See Lincoln’s Head

If you do the Penny Test and note that Abraham Lincoln’s head is inconsistently visible, it’s a sign of uneven tread wear. You may have to hit the panic button when Abe’s head is peeking, for it indicates the tread loss is significant enough to reduce your vehicle’s ability to grip the road in challenging weather conditions.

You Notice Odd Wear Patches

Some cases of tire wear are too obvious to ignore. When a tire’s grooves appear shallower than those of the other tires, you should rotate it sooner rather than later.

You Feel Your Vehicle Strangely Vibrate

Automobiles — whether they have internal combustion engines or electric motors — vibrate due to the mechanical forces at work when they run. However, due to imbalanced tread loss, your vehicle may produce more vibrations than usual. Timely tire rotation should prevent this issue.

You Struggle to Handle Your Vehicle

Is your car or truck less responsive than it should be? Your vehicle will find it difficult to grip the road like it used to when some tires are more worn than others. Rotate them correctly before this handling issue worsens.

How to Rotate Tires

Rotating tires sounds intimidating. However, it’s a walk in the park compared to replacing brake pads, which involves cleaning the rotor mounting surface, inspecting the piston, determining adequate caliper tightness, on top of removing and reattaching the wheels with a breaker bar. All you need to get started are a car jack, a lug wrench, a tire pressure gauge, gloves and basic knowledge of how to change tires.

You can rotate your tires in many ways. The most suitable rotation pattern for your vehicle depends on:

• Drivetrain type — FWD, RWD, AWD, 4WD or dual-rear-wheel (DRW)
• Tire symmetry — nondirectional or directional
• Tire size
• Spare tire availability

Learn how various patterns work and which one is best for your vehicle.

Forward Cross

This pattern applies to FWD vehicles with nondirectional tires of uniform size. You diagonally move the rear wheels up to the front axle’s opposite sides while you place the front wheels directly back.

Rearward Cross

This one suits RWD systems with same-sized nondirectional tires. It’s the opposite of the forward cross pattern. You diagonally move back the front wheels to the rear axle’s opposite sides while the rear tires advance directly to the front.

X-Pattern

If you want to know how to rotate tires on 4×4 and AWD vehicles, this pattern is your best bet. It involves moving all tires diagonally. Each wheel switches axles and winds up on the opposite side. This pattern makes sense only when your tires are nondirectional and of similar size, making them interchangeable.

Front-to-Rear

Curious how to rotate directional tires of uniform size? Make the front and rear wheels switch places while remaining on the same side. This rotation scheme doesn’t involve crossing because directional tire manufacturers optimize each unit’s tread pattern for either left or right for maximum performance.

Side-to-Side

When rotating differently sized directional tires, you should move each to the opposite side without changing axles. The front wheels should remain on the front, while the rear ones should stay on the back.

Five-Tire Rotation

If you have a full-size nondirectional spare street tire, you should include it in the rotation to ensure even treadwear. 

Position the newcomer on the right rear, designating the tire that would’ve gone to that spot as your new spare. In the forward cross pattern, your new spare tire would be the tire on the front axle’s side. When doing rearward cross or X-pattern, the tire on the left front would move to the spare position. 

This rotation philosophy is particularly critical in AWD and 4WD systems, where minor unevenness tread loss can do a number on the drivetrain. 

If you have a donut, exclude it from the rotation because it’s unidentical to the other three tires. This temporary tire belongs to the rear axle and is for short use only — a lifeline to get you to the tire shop when you notice a flat or have a blowout. You can’t use a donut permanently because it’s too small to support your vehicle’s weight, causing it to deflate quickly.

Six-Tire Rotation

If you have a dually truck — a DRW pickup whose rear axle has a pair of two tires on each side — do a modified front-to-rear rotation pattern. In DRW systems, the tires remain on the same side and rotate counterclockwise.

On your vehicle’s left side, move the inner rear wheel to the front axle. Reposition the front tire to the outer rear spot while the outer rear wheel shifts to the inside.

On the right side, transfer the outer rear tire to the front axle. The front wheel moves back and becomes the inner rear one. Lastly, the inner rear tire migrates to the outer spot.

Whatever rotation pattern your vehicle requires, remember to check tire pressure. To stay safe on the road, inflate all your tires as needed based on their manufacturer’s recommendation.

Tire Rotation Is a Must-Learn Skill

Knowing how to rotate tires properly even when you don’t have to makes you a much more responsible car owner and road user. Although it can seem overwhelming in practice, this guide will help you do it flawlessly.

The post How to Rotate Your Tires appeared first on Modded.

The life of a lighthouse keeper sounds glamorous to many. It’s a job where you get to live in close connection with the sea and get plenty of time to appreciate its power. However, a lighthouse isn’t signaling to ships all day every day, so what are the keepers doing the rest of the time?

The Work Life of a Lighthouse Keeper

A lighthouse keeper’s primary job is to keep the lighthouse operating as powerfully and smoothly as possible. When the buildings used paraffin vapor, this job consisted of ensuring the lantern stayed lit and optimally bright and winding the rotator so the light gave off its unique identifying pattern. The advent of electricity does mean operators can work from more comfortable spots thanks to a monitor that indicates if the power is working, but they still need a sharp eye.

When they aren’t working directly with the light, lighthouse workers need to keep the structure clean. All the brass and windows required polishing so visibility inside and outside is constant. Touching up the lens was more critical when lighthouses used wicks that could dirty it, but it’s still an essential duty that can take up to a day to complete.

Other jobs might include painting the lighthouse, cleaning the living quarters and getting seaweed out of the boat landing. They also must look out for people in distress and log materials used and weather conditions every day.

What Level of Education is Required?

There are currently over 400,000 people working in the maritime industry in the U.S. alone. The maritime industry includes any position connected to the sea or major waterways, with roles ranging everywhere from professional fishermen to naval architects and nautical scientists. Maritime careers have a wide variety of requirements depending on the level of in-depth knowledge the position involves.

For lighthouse keepers, no direct formal education is typically required. Instead, the position relies largely on your willingness to work. Lighthouse keepers need to be at least 18 years old, be able to self-regulate their own workflow and manage their time wisely and be physically capable enough to fulfill their duties. However, a heavy passion for and knowledge of maritime navigation can be a huge benefit for any position within the maritime industry.

How Much Free Time Do Lighthouse Keepers Have?

Keepers work in small groups so they can rotate shifts. The hours in military time are:

• 0200 – 0600
• 0600 – 1000
• 1000 – 1400
• 1400 – 1800
• 1800 – 2200
• 2200 – 0200

Since they worked in groups of three, that meant one person would work for four hours, take the next eight off, then finish their work day with another four-hour shift. This was so no one person had to stay up all night maintaining the lantern. Ideally, a lighthouse keeper would then have 16 hours to sleep, eat, perform smaller work around the facility or do anything else they’d like.

However, things ramp up if there’s fog. They’ll start working double duty, spending the first four hours of their shift tending the fog signal and the next four tending the light. An eight-hour shift suddenly turns into 16 hours of constant upkeep of the alert horn and communication with the mainland.

What Lighthouse Keepers Do With Their Downtime

So long as they stay on top of their duties, lighthouse keepers can do practically anything they want when they’re off the clock. For example, while they do get deliveries of food and supplies, some choose to grow fresh vegetables they’d otherwise have limited access to. Naturally, that means that individual would need to dedicate a chunk of their free time to garden upkeep, which might feel more like part of the workday if stores are low.

Back in the day, doing so was more of a necessity, especially if the operators brought their families along. More mouths to feed and finite supplies necessitated living off the land now and then, including raising livestock and fishing.

Modern technology obviously brings about many more comforts and entertainment. The processes are a bit different — there’s a minimum of two keepers at the structure, each working nine-hour shifts. Most of their day consists of weather reporting, lighthouse maintenance and landscaping, which they’ll do during the week.

Other than that, they can do whatever they choose. One current staff member says in the two months he’s been at a lighthouse, he’s read six books and put 90 hours into three Mass Effect games. He also spends time researching boating, marine life, the Coast Guard and content for his YouTube channel.

The life of a lighthouse keeper also provides the chance for more creative pursuits. Back in the 1800s, assistant lighthouse keeper Marie Israel made picture frames with shells and sold them to supplement the living her and her husband’s — the head keeper — wages. One example of these that resides at the Cabrillo National Monument displays a watercolor one of Israel’s children painted. All in all, as long as all their chores were done, those who tend lighthouses have many options to occupy themselves.

Do Lighthouse Keepers Make a Lot of Money?

According to ZipRecruiter, a lighthouse keeper can make more than $24 an hour. Those living in California are in luck — current rates hover around $30 an hour. The lower average end of the pay scale sits just under $20, while the top average is close to $28. Because they have such a critical job, employers thankfully often pay these workers closer to what they’re worth.

Not to mention, staff have a fair amount of time to make a living in addition to their lighthouse work. Remember the Israel family who got crafty together to pass the time? While not every hobby needs monetization, doing so while lighthouse tending offers an excellent opportunity to make some bonus cash.

Can Lighthouse Keepers Leave?

You’ve probably heard the stereotype of the isolated lighthouse worker who goes crazy because they’ve been alone with the sea for too long. However, that was often due to the mercury they were exposed to on the job. While some did get stuck for much longer than they should’ve been, an entire fleet of lighthouse keepers will work for six weeks at a time, followed by two weeks of leave at home.

So, if this new career path is starting to sound interesting but you’re worried about it taking a toll on your mind, ease those fears. Once again, technology has come to the rescue with automated ways to turn the light and switch out burnt bulbs. So long as you don’t mind a bit of loneliness and the occasional rough storm, you’ll likely do well.

Living the Life of a Lighthouse Keeper

A lighthouse keeper’s day to day does look a bit different from the typical employee’s. However, the way their days break up and the nature of the work appeals to many. If the waves have been calling to you and the lifestyle sounds manageable, see if there are any lighthouses nearby.

The post The Life of a Lighthouse Keeper: What Do They Actually Do? appeared first on Modded.

Cats and dogs are great, but sometimes, you may want something a little more exotic. With their beautiful patterns, huge diversity and undeniable cool factor, snakes are a great option. Still, some are easier to take care of than others, so you’ll want to know the best pet snakes ahead of time.

Your reptilian pal should be gentle, safe and relatively easy to feed and keep contained. Here are 10 that fit that description.

1. Corn Snakes

Corn snakes are arguably the best pet snakes for most people. Sometimes called red rat snakes, these little guys come in orange and red patterns, are docile and can live for 15 to 20 years if you take care of them.

These reptiles aren’t picky eaters and require an easy 75-to-95-degree enclosure — think of replicating their natural habitat in the southwest U.S. While there’s no such thing as a social snake, corn snakes don’t stress out easily. That’s good news if you have other pets, as you should socialize your dog with other animals in your home. 

2. Rosy Boas

Rosy boas are another easy-to-care-for snake species from the southwest. Their distinct striped pattern makes them one of the more eye-catching pets out there, and they rarely grow longer than three feet.

Like corn snakes, rosy boas are as docile as they come and don’t have stringent space or heat requirements. They eat mice like many of the snakes on this list, but you can use frozen mice from pet stores, as they aren’t picky.

3. Hognose Snakes

Hognoses as a group are some of the other best pet snakes to keep. Unlike the rosy boa and corn snake, this isn’t a specific species but a group of snakes from three different genera sharing a distinctive upturned nose. In most cases, though, when people talk about pet hognoses, they’re talking about the Heterodon genus, which is native to the U.S.

Many hognose snakes don’t grow beyond two feet, so you won’t need much space. They’re a little more defensive than rosy boas and corn snakes but are still docile, especially when you care for them properly.

4. California Kingsnakes

For something a little flashier, look no further than the California kingsnake. Kingsnakes, as a whole, are some of the most widespread snakes in the U.S., and anything that common won’t need too much attention to live a long, healthy life.

The California kingsnake has a beautiful striped pattern featuring bold bands of contrasting colors. It also has a manageable size of up to four feet and, as you might guess from how widespread it is in nature, doesn’t need extreme housing conditions.

5. Milk Snakes

Milk snakes are another species of kingsnake. These are some of the best pet snakes not only for their easygoing nature but their stunning colors. While their patterns are largely similar to the California kingsnake, they feature vibrant reds and yellows in their scales.

Caring for a milk snake is about the same as a California kingsnake. They need a small-to-medium enclosure with heated areas ranging from 75 to 92 degrees, which is easy with a heat lamp or two. 

6. Ball Pythons

While all the snakes on this list make great pets, you’ll struggle to find one more popular than the ball python. These snakes get their name from a habit of curling up into a ball — something stemming from their shy, gentle nature. They’re also beautiful, featuring a wide range of different patterns.

Other python species can get huge, but ball pythons stay a manageable four to five feet. Like many snakes, they only require feeding every one to two weeks, but ball pythons can be picky eaters. You’ll have to feed them fresh mice — nothing frozen or stale — which is why they don’t rank higher here.

7. Garter Snakes

Ball pythons may be the most common pet snake, but if you’ve seen a snake in the wild, there’s a good chance it was a garter snake. This genus holds a ton of diversity across different habitats, making them one of the more common snakes in the U.S.

Gartner snakes are small, typically gentle and easy to feed and care for. So why don’t they rank higher? They like to move around a lot, which can be a handful, and they may release some foul-smelling pheromones before they get used to you. 

8. Carpet Pythons

Carpet pythons are a good option if you want a pet snake that’s a bit bigger. These guys can reach up to eight or nine feet, so they’ll require quite a bit of room.

Like other pythons, these snakes have beautiful patterns and are generally docile. That said, their feeding response is rather aggressive, so be careful when feeding them.

9. Green Tree Pythons

Another great pet python species is the green tree python. These snakes’ bright green scales and white spotted patterns make them one of the most unique pet snakes from a visual standpoint. They can also live upwards of 20 years, making them good long-term pets.

While green tree pythons aren’t outright aggressive, they are more defensive than other snakes on this list, so don’t try to hold them much. They also require high humidity, so they’re not quite as easy to keep as others.

10. Asian Vine Snakes

Capping this list of the best pet snakes is the Asian vine snake. Like green tree pythons, these snakes have beautiful bright green scales, but they’re much smaller, making them easier to keep.

Asian vine snakes require between 80% to 100% humidity, which makes maintaining a proper living environment a little more complicated. They also have a more specialized diet than other U.S.-native snakes and are prone to parasites, so they may need a few vet visits.

Tips for Keeping a Pet Snake

Regardless of what kind of snake you choose, you should keep a few things in mind. You’ll need an enclosure at least two-thirds the length of your snake so they have enough room to move around. All snakes also require spot heating and controlled humidity, though specifics vary between species.

Remember to clean their enclosure regularly to keep your snake comfortable. Similarly, they’ll need relatively clean water — enough for them to sit in and cool off.

You should also remember that there’s no such thing as a truly social snake. Don’t keep more than one in the same enclosure, as it’ll likely end poorly. Along those lines, it’s best to leave your snake alone most of the time. Avoid handling it more than a couple of times a week.

Remember to look up your specific snake’s behavior. Even a nonvenomous snake bite can hurt, and even docile snakes can strike if they feel backed into a wall. You may want tongs to feed them to keep your hand out of harm’s way.

Find the Best Pet Snake for You

The best pet snake depends on what you can manage and what kind of animals you like. Any species on this list is a great place to start.

Despite their more stringent habitat requirements, snakes are relatively low-maintenance pets once you set their enclosure up. Find the right snake for you today to get started.

The post The Best Pet Snakes and Tips to Take Care of Them Safely appeared first on Modded.

Looking for a fun way to hang out with friends and family this summer? You can’t go wrong with an outdoor movie night in your backyard. Enjoy the latest blockbuster or take in an old classic all from the comfort of your own home — and you won’t break the bank paying for tickets or snacks at the theater. Check out these tips on how to throw an outdoor movie night bash that everyone will love.

Establish the Basics

Before you invite guests over to kick up their feet and enjoy a flick on the silver screen, you have to set it up. That includes choosing the right location for your outdoor theater, the type of screen you’ll use and the best sound system.

Think about where you want to set up your al fresco theater. It often depends on the type of outdoor movie screen you have. Maybe there’s an obvious spot in your backyard perfectly suited for a big screen and enough seating for everyone.

Otherwise, you might have to get creative. Take your pick between inflatable screens, freestanding and portable metal frames or pull-down options. If you don’t want to splurge on equipment, you can find an affordable projector and hang up a white sheet on an exterior wall of your house.

However, if you know you’re going to host outdoor movie nights regularly, you might spring for a more advanced model. Projectors can cost anywhere from around $50 to a couple hundred or even thousands of dollars. Avid film buffs who want the best visual and audio quality can invest in higher-end projectors and sound systems that deliver a theater-like experience from the convenience of their own yard.

Set the Scene

Once you have the technical details worked out, you can focus on making your backyard theater your favorite place to hang out. You want to set the right ambiance for your outdoor movie night. That includes the proper lighting, seating and decor.

Lighting is important for any movie night, especially when you’re outdoors and have less control over natural light sources. Make sure you schedule your movie night for the right time of day, close to or after sunset — too early and the bright sun will make it hard to see the screen.

However, you don’t want to leave your guests totally stranded. Make sure there’s enough light in your backyard so people can walk around safely after dark. Consider using lanterns, string lights or other gentle, ambient light sources that illuminate the ground without throwing glare on the screen.

Since you’ll be spending a few hours sitting down, comfortable seating is a must. You can go casual with picnic blankets and pillows spread out on the grass, set up camping chairs or invest in patio furniture that doubles as comfy outdoor theater seats. A mix of options ensures everyone can get comfortable and enjoy the film.

Pick the Right Flick

Choosing the right film might be the most important part of a successful movie night. It all depends on your audience — you want something that will appeal to everyone. 

Are you having family over, including little ones? Pick a family-friendly movie that has some laughs for everyone. Kids will love the novelty of watching a movie outside and the freedom to run around the yard if they get restless.

When you’re hanging out with a group of friends, you can’t go wrong with classic blockbusters, from your favorite comedies to exciting action movies or fantasy epics. Want a real thrill? Screen some underrated horror movies in October — or any time of year you’re looking for a good scare. 

The film sets the vibe for the rest of the evening. Since you’re all there to have a good time, pick something fun. Unless you’re all devoted film fanatics, find a movie with a plot that’s easy enough to follow — people are likely to be socializing and getting up and down for snacks or bathroom breaks.

Provide Ample Refreshments

No outdoor movie night experience is complete without snacks and drinks. Fortunately, the refreshments are one of the easiest parts of planning your night. You can’t go wrong with classic movie theater staples, like popcorn, nachos, soft pretzels and an assortment of candies.

Since you’re conveniently located in your own backyard, you can take things a step further. Fire up the grill and make some hotdogs and burgers for your guests. Everyone loves a backyard barbecue with a show!

Make sure you provide an array of drinks, too. Depending on what your guests prefer, you can stock up on craft beers, cocktail ingredients or your favorite wine. Offer non-alcoholic drinks to ensure everyone can quench their thirst.

If you want to take things to the next level, serve drinks based on the film you’re showing. Take inspiration from the cult classic “The Big Lebowski” and make white Russians or create your own cocktails. Show off your bartending skills and your film knowledge at the same time with custom drinks based on your favorite movie.

Expect the Unexpected

If you’ve ever planned an outdoor event, you know unexpected issues can pop up quickly. Take all precautions to ensure things run smoothly, like checking out all the equipment beforehand. You don’t want to be caught without the right cable to connect your laptop to the projector when you’ve got a full audience waiting for the show.

However, some issues are unavoidable. Having a backup plan is essential when you’re hosting an outdoor movie night. Check the forecast frequently leading up to your party. If you’re expecting bad weather, consider rescheduling. Sometimes the skies open up without warning — if it starts raining on your movie night, make sure you’re prepared to move things inside.

Don’t let bumps in the road stop you from enjoying your time with family and friends. Be ready for any hiccups and you’re sure to be everyone’s favorite host.

Hosting the Best Outdoor Movie Night for Friends

Hanging out with friends and watching movies is a time-honored tradition. Kick back and relax in the comfort of your backyard with these tips on how to host the best outdoor movie night. All you need is the right equipment, delicious snacks and the best company to create lasting memories.

The post How to Host the Ultimate Outdoor Movie Night appeared first on Modded.