The Mazda Miata is a canvas for automotive artists to paint as they please. This tiny car packs a punch with its stock engine, but you can take it to the next level by swapping the engine. What are the best Mazda Miata engine swaps? Knowing which motors work for your vehicle is critical before getting the tools out. Here’s a guide to making your modded Mazda Miata the coolest one on the block. 

What Are the Best Mazda Miata Engine Swaps of 2024?

Choosing an engine swap over forced induction lets you get creative with your customization. The motor you pick will significantly influence your performance, so carefully scrutinize each option. These nine Miata engine swaps heighten power, handling, efficiency and more.

Hellcat

When you think of motor swaps, a Miata with a Hellcat engine might not be the first to come to mind. Still, you should consider the Dodge SRT Hellcat’s engine if you’re looking for power. The Mazda MX-5 Miata maxed out at 181 whp, whereas the Hellcat gives you over 700 whp at 6000 RPM. 

One thing you’ll need to consider is the weight distribution. The Hellcat weighs over 4,000 lbs and gives you one of the biggest engine options in a Miata, significantly affecting your vehicle’s handling.

The Hellcat’s V8 engine would disrupt your Miata’s balance, sending the weight to the front and making driving more challenging. Suddenly, driving around curves and corners becomes dangerous.

The Miata’s engine bay is designed to have a small motor, so fitting this V8 engine will require you to modify the subframe, exhaust system, engine mounts and more. The sheer size makes the motor more suitable for a Dodge Ram, but it can fit with the magic touch. 

• Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
• Displacement: 6.2L (6,166 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 90.9mm 
• Power: 717 whp
• Torque: 649 wtq
• Weight: 247-259kg

GM LFX V6 

If you want a powerful engine but are hesitant about the Hellcat, consider the GM LFX V6. This motor provides a terrific spark of power but fits more naturally into your Miata. You’ll get up to 323 whp from this high-performing lightweight engine.

You’ll typically find the LFX V6 in Chevrolet Camaros, so imagine that comparison in your Miata engine swap. The exhaust note alone impressed us on this engine swap, so it’s worth the time if you want increased torque and a more muscle-car feel.

The LFX V6 is bigger, but your Miata’s engine bay should accompany the new engine without much adjustment. The motor is also longer, so the weight distribution won’t be a limiting factor.

• Compression Ratio: 11.5:1
• Displacement: 3.6L (3,564 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 85.6mm
• Power: 300-323 whp
• Torque: 264-278 wtq
• Weight: 157kg

If you want a more eco-friendly Miata swap, the GM Ecotec engine is a solid option. This motor might not be as fuel-efficient as hybrids on the market, but it has enhanced fuel efficiency. 

Honda K20

The Honda K-Series engines provide the easiest Miata engine swap selections because they fit seamlessly. This exchange is preferable if you have less experience with engine swaps or don’t want to alter your Miata too much.

The K-20 motor’s performance depends on your selection because there are plenty of options. The K20A1 is the first in the series, featuring 156 whp at 6,500 rpm and 139 lb-ft of torque. 

Regardless of your pick, the K20 is much lighter and maintains your Miata’s ideal weight distribution. Thus, your Miata will continue to excel in its handling and balance.

Choosing the K20 gives you variability because this engine’s aftermarket support is robust. You can further tune the motor to your liking and add even more whp if desired. Plus, the aftermarket makes it easier to repair if something goes awry.

• Compression Ratio: 9.7:1 – 11.7:1
• Displacement: 2.0L (1,996 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 85.9mm
• Power: 156-306 whp
• Torque: 139-295 wtq
• Weight: 183.7kg

Honda K24

Honda is a solid automaker for young people buying cars and anybody wanting a reliable vehicle. That said, the Japanese manufacturer also makes excellent engines for swaps.  

The Honda K24 is among the most common Miata engine swaps, with Soichiro Honda’s K-Series engines fitting well inside your vehicle. They’ll work similarly in your Miata, but there are a few differences to consider.

The K24 has a higher displacement at 2.4L, allowing you more torque and power than the average engine. Picking a K24 engine adds over three kilograms to your engine bay, which may seem minuscule. Still, the difference could be significant for your Miata’s weight distribution.

Selecting between the two depends on your preferences. The K24 offers more low-end torque, whereas the K20 offers higher rpm. In terms of price, the K20 is generally more affordable due to its long life on the market.

• Compression Ratio: 9.6:1 – 11.6:1
• Displacement: 2.4L (2,354 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 99.0-99.1mm
• Power: 160-206 whp
• Torque: 162-182 wtq
• Weight: 187kg

Honda J-Series V6

Honda engines fit well inside Miata engine bays, so you should also consider the J-Series. These V6 engines are popular alongside the LFX swaps because of their high horsepower and increased performance.

The J-series has numerous options varying in horsepower and displacement, allowing flexibility in your swap. This wide selection makes it a contender to be the easiest Miata engine swap on the market.

J-Series engines are lightweight, starting as low as 113kg and maxing out around 163kg. Thus, the transition to these engines will be easy for your Miata. The low-end torque makes it easy to keep your Miata as a daily driver.

There are some challenges with the J-series engines. For example, the aftermarket community isn’t as large as the K-series and other engines. Plus, these V6 engines have unique wiring and electronic systems that may confuse the average Miata owner when transitioning.

• Compression Ratio: 10.0:1 – 11.2:1
• Displacement: 3.5L (3,471 cc) – 3.7L (3,664 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 89.0-90.0mm
• Power: 205-310 whp
• Torque: 217-275 wtq
• Weight: 113-163kg

LSx V8

If you kick it old school, the LSx V8 engine suits you. An LS-swapped Miata is more common for older models, so consider that when looking at your options. The LS engines have a large community worldwide, so finding swap kits and advice will be more manageable than other motors.

These engines are best if you want high horsepower with a lighter engine than the SRT Hellcat. The weight will slightly affect the Miata’s handling, so consider suspension changes with the LSx V8.

The Miata engine bay fits this V8 engine without much of a hitch. You may need to adjust the firewall or mounts or cut the frame rails to fit your NA or NB Miata, making the LS swap easier if you have the NC Miata.

Like the K-Series, the LS engines have a long history and numerous editions. The 5.3L engine is the most common LS motor and could be the one in your Miata. 

• Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
• Displacement: 5.3L (5,327 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 91.95mm
• Power: 300-326 whp
• Torque: 330-348 wtq
• Weight: 195-226kg

Mazda 13B

Looking at the best engine swap options, you may hesitate to shoot for a rotary swap. However, you should consider it, starting with the Mazda 13B. It may seem painful, but it’s worth the time.

The 13B engine matches well with the third-generation NC Miata, which Mazda produced from 2006 to 2015. The 13B’s rotary design is beneficial because of its power delivery and wider broadband. Therefore, it’s way more fun to drive.

You may encounter some problems with the 13B motor because rotary engines are unique. These engines are typically less fuel efficient than your Miata’s piston engines. Plus, they often require more maintenance. 

However, you’ll love the 13B when you hear the rotary engine. Mazda has made the 13B since 1978, so you have plenty of options for your swap. 

• Compression Ratio: 8.5:1 – 9.7:1
• Displacement: 1.3L (1,308 cc)
• Piston Stroke: N/A
• Power:  135-280 whp
• Torque: 130-231 wtq
• Weight: 149-152kg

Nissan SR20DET

If you’re searching for a turbocharged engine, the Nissan SR20DET has you covered. This engine has electronic fuel injection and gives the Nissan compact sports their power.

Giving your Miata an SR20 engine allows flexibility on the horsepower, with the standard editions around 200 whp and the modded versions eclipsing 300 whp. The turbocharged engine also allows for better low-end and mid-range torque. Miatas aren’t muscle cars, but they’ll feel closer to that standard with this swap. 

A significant benefit of the SR20DET is its weight. It’s not exactly a feather with its 400-pound weight — but it will maintain the superb handling on your Miata. Another factor to consider is the SR20 has a large aftermarket community, making it easy to adjust your Miata even more after your engine swap.

Compression Ratio: 8.5:1 (red top, silver top) 8.5:1 / 8.3:1 (black top)

Displacement: 2.0L (1998 cc)

Piston Stroke: 86mm 

Power: 201-246 whp

Torque: 203 wtq

Weight: 181kg

Toyota 1GZ-FE V12

The Hellcat isn’t the only unconventional engine swap on the list. If you’re looking for power, the Toyota 1GZ-FE V12 engine packs a punch and will elevate your Miata to the next level.

This V12 engine — like the Hellcat — would increase the horsepower to over 300. Your acceleration and top speed will get much higher. However, the weight will also drastically affect your Miata.

The 1GZ-FE V12 weighs about 300kg and is the biggest engine you can put in a Miata. You’ll need to overhaul the mounts and other supporting engine components.

Nonetheless, the swap is worth it if you want a loud and proud motor. When you hear a Miata with a V12 inside, you’ll understand why we love this engine swap so much.

• Compression Ratio: 10.5:1
• Cylinder Bore: 81mm
• Displacement: 4.9L (4996 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 73.7mm 
• Power: 280-312 whp
• Torque: 460-481 wtq
• Weight: 295kg

Toyota 2JZ-GE

Another Toyota engine worth considering is the 2JZ, one of the most popular motors from the 1990s and 2000s. Toyota manufactured the engine from 1991 to 1996 and divided it into two generations.

If you want your Mazda Miata modded with a Toyota engine, the 2JZ offers a couple of options. The GTE gives you more performance but is far from the cheapest Miata engine swap. 

The 2JZ-GE is a more budget-friendly accommodation and packs a punch with its power. If you like Toyota power, you may also like the 1.5JZ. 

Like Toyota’s V12 engine, you must consider the 2JZ-GE’s size and weight. A 230kg engine may need special accommodations to ensure it doesn’t harm your Miata.  

• Compression Ratio: 10.0:1 (10.5:1 with VVT-i system) 
• Cylinder Bore: 86m
• Displacement: 3.0L (2,997 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 86mm
• Power: 215-230 whp
• Torque: 279-304 wtq
• Weight: 230kg

Finding the Easiest Miata Engine Swap

Before purchasing an engine and grabbing the torque wrench, it’s essential to understand how engine swaps work. Here are eight factors you need to consider when undergoing this process.

Compatibility

The first measure is to ensure your Miata is compatible with the engine you’re inserting. For example, examine your engine mounts to align the motor inside your engine bay correctly. 

Getting the correct mounts for your Miata engine swap is crucial to setting up the rest of the process. Look at the transmission as an example — the mounts align your engine with the transmission to transfer power. You’ll be in trouble from the start with incompatible engine mounts.

Weight

Next, consider the weight. Miatas are famously lightweight and fun to drive. You’ll need to watch the weight of your engine swap to ensure you get the same experience.

Specifically, you’ll need to watch the weight distribution. A dramatic weight change can negatively affect your balance and fundamentally change the car. Ensure the Miata engine swap has the same or an improved weight distribution to maintain your handling.

Tuning Goals

Tuning is one of the most fun things you can do with a car. That said, you must enter the task with a basis of what you want to do. Are you looking for the easiest or cheapest Miata engine swap? If you have a large budget, you could swing for the fences and get a big engine. 

After you understand your budget, move to the performance aspects. Are you looking for better fuel mileage or engine performance? Consider the horsepower, torque, handling and the other aspects of a good motor in your Miata. 

Electrical System

One of the pesky parts of engine swaps is dealing with the electrical system. This complex infrastructure requires you to investigate the engine’s amperage, sensors and gauges.

Check the wiring harnesses, control modules, electrical fan circuits, and other parts of the electrical system in your Miata engine and the swapped motor. Do you need to modify the wiring? If so, you may need some aftermarket help linking the two.

Cooling System

Cooling systems are easier to swap than electrical units but still require work and investigation. Newer engines get much hotter than the one in your Miata from the ’90s, so you’ll need enhanced cooling for the motor.

Check your Miata’s radiator and intercooler to see if it can support the replaced engine. If not, you’ll need additional cooling components and modifications to assist your radiator. The last thing you want is a blown engine on your first day with what you thought was the best Miata engine swap.

Fuel System

Another critical component to inspect is your fuel system. Inspect your Miata’s fuel pressure, fuel pump capacity, injector size and more to keep them as close as possible to the swapped motor. Your priority should be ensuring fuel delivery is as smooth as your original engine’s.

Then, consider fuel compatibility. Your Miata uses gasoline, but the swapped engine may require diesel or alternative fuel. In this case, you’ll need to change the fuel tank, lines and injector to install the new system.

Exhaust

Nowadays, you don’t want to compromise engine efficiency, so your swap must consider the exhaust system. Check the swapped engine to ensure it’s compatible with your Miata’s exhaust manifold. A good exhaust system means you’ll maintain your horsepower and torque, leading to increased performance on the road.

Plus, your exhaust system will significantly influence the noise emitted from your car. It’s essential to check the exhaust notes from your swapped engine to see if you need to make any alterations to the system.

Transmission

While a Miata with a Hellcat engine sounds fun, you must consider the transmission compatibility. Finding a great motor doesn’t matter if your engine and transmission don’t match. 

How can you gauge their compatibility? Start by checking the gear ratios because it’s critical they match. If the engine is too powerful for the transmission, you’re in trouble because you’ll cause excessive strain and compromise performance. 

Emissions Compliance

Noise pollution is a concern for your exhaust — so is greenhouse gas pollution. Twenty-nine states require emissions tests to register a vehicle, so emissions compliance should be one of your highest priorities in a state like California.

Your Miata’s exhaust system should have updated catalytic converters and oxygen sensors to control its emissions. One way to reduce your Miata’s emissions is to convert it into a battery-electric vehicle or use a highly efficient engine like the GM Ecotec.

Budget

Engine swaps are fun projects for gearheads, but you need to consider your budget for time and money. This process will take hours of manual labor and a few thousand dollars. However, look at the project as an investment — you’ll garner the benefits of a swapped engine, such as increased horsepower, torque and fuel efficiency.

If you’re not confident in your mechanical abilities, consider hiring a professional to exchange the engines. They’ll ensure your swap goes smoothly and may require less time and money than if you did the process yourself.

Are Miatas Easy to Work On?

If you decide to do the engine swap, you can help yourself by getting a Miata engine swap skit. This toolkit will set you up for success and ensure the process runs smoothly. Your homemade Miata swap kit should include these 10 items.

Compression Tester

First, you should test your engine’s health, which you can accomplish through a compression tester. This device tells you the compression pressure in each engine cylinder. Low pressure could mean a few things, such as leaky valves, gasket issues or worn pistons.

Use your compression tester on the current and swapped engine to compare their health. You’ll have a baseline for the cylinder pressure, making it easier to diagnose engine problems down the road.

Hand Tools

Hand tools make the engine swap more manageable, so ensure your Miata engine swap kit includes the following:

• Flathead and Phillips-head screwdrivers
• Hammer
• Impact and Allen wrenches
• Socket set
• Pliers
• Pry bars

Engine Crane

Another way to make your engine swap easier is to have an engine crane, also known as a cherry picker. This device does the heavy lifting if the engine weighs too much for you to remove manually. You’ll also benefit from more precise positioning when aligning the engine mounts and increased safety for everyone involved.

Jack Stands

Removing your Miata’s engine makes the vehicle temporarily unstable, so you’ll need jack stands to maintain the balance during the engine swap. 

Jack stands are preferable to hydraulic jacks because they’re reliable and provide adequate support for your car. The engine swap could take a few hours, so having jack stand support is essential.

Transmission Jack

While the engine needs support, don’t forget about your transmission jack. This tool is essential because you want to prevent this crucial part from falling. You also make it easier to work on if it needs assistance. 

The transmission jack also heightens accuracy when you reinstall it in your vehicle. Prioritize good care for your transmission because you don’t want its light on your dashboard popping up on your first Miata drive. 

Engine Mounts

Another critical point of support comes from your engine mounts. These devices keep your engine inside the bay and align the motor with the chassis.

Your new engine could be heavier or have a different weight distribution, so the engine mounts ensure the bay can support the load across the chassis. Also, revving the new engine could shift the motor, so having the mounts is essential.

Brackets

Brackets are tiny enough to fit in your hand but are integral to the engine swap process. Primarily, you’ll need them for your engine mounting. Your swapped engine may have different mounting points, so the brackets help your new motor adapt.

These are also critical for integrating every component of the swapped engine into your vehicle. For example, you may need brackets for the power steering pump, air conditioning compressor or alternator.

Fluid Transfer Pump

Before swapping engines, you’ll need to drain the old one of its fluids — including the oil, coolant, transmission fluid and more. Make the process easier with a fluid transfer pump in your Miata engine swaps because they ensure clean draining.

If you’re not careful, the fluid transfer could get messy. For example, the coolant system could begin bleeding after air pockets get trapped in it. Your transfer pump mitigates the bleeding by freeing the air in the cooling system.

Multimeter

Multimeters help before and after the engine swap to test the electrical components of your engine. This device lets you measure voltage and identify wiring issues or faulty sensors.

For example, multimeters are excellent for continuity testing. These devices can identify breaks in the wiring or open circuits. After using the multimeter, you’ll know if and where repairs are necessary for your engine’s wires.

Safety Gear

Don’t discount safety when working on your engine swap. You never know what accidents can arise, so the last thing you want is an injury in your garage. 

Protect your body and garage by assembling a first-aid kit and wearing eye protection at all times. Fires shouldn’t be an issue because Miatas are easy to work on and don’t carry this risk. If you work with power tools, wear ear protection to safeguard your hearing. 

Comparing Forced Induction and Engine Swaps

Miata engine swaps are popular upgrades if you want something different under the hood, but you can opt for forced induction instead. Which route should you take? Let’s look at the benefits of each.

Forced Induction 

Forced induction is popular if you want to turbocharge your Miata. The pros of forced induction include the following:

• Originality: Using forced induction, you can keep your current engine. If you’re a Miata purist, you’ll appreciate maintaining the identity of your engine.
• Cost: You’re keeping the engine in place, so forced induction costs are typically lower than engine swaps. Plus, it’s more convenient because it involves much less hassle on the mechanical side.
• Aftermarket: The Mazda Miata community is extensive, so you’ll have an easy time finding turbocharger kits for your Miata. These tools make your installation much more manageable.

Engine Swaps

The engine swap option may be more complicated, but it has these benefits compared to forced induction.

• Power: Turbochargers and superchargers can increase your power, but engine swaps heighten your power potential and performance.
• Customization: Forced induction is relatively straightforward, but engine swaps let you be creative with your Miata. As you’ll see later in the guide, there are numerous engines you can take to achieve the performance you like.
• Reliability: If you’re looking for reliability, engine swaps are the better choice. Engine swaps can increase the dependability of your Miata if you choose a durable and robust engine. Forced induction can become a liability by overstressing engine components if you don’t closely manage them.

Getting Creative With the Best Mazda Miata Engine Swaps

The Mazda Miata is a blank canvas for gearheads worldwide. You can create a Miata with a Hellcat engine or a Camaro motor to emulate other famous cars. 

How can you make the vehicle your own? Set up a budget and determine which engine is the most compatible with your Miata and your wallet. 

Also, remember that forced induction is also an option if you want a turbo boost. This tuning ensures your Miata is the fastest car in your friend group. 

Looking to continue improving your engine? Check out our list of the best modifications for better engine performance.

Originally posted Jul 28, 2023 – Updated Aug 12, 2024

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When you think about things that could go wrong with your car, you probably think about your engine, tires or frame. However, one little device could mean big problems for your vehicle — the camshaft position sensor. Is it safe to drive with a bad camshaft sensor? Here’s what you need to know.

What Is a Camshaft Sensor?

A camshaft position sensor is a device that monitors your engine’s inlet and exhaust valves. It sends the information to your car’s main computer — the electric control unit (ECU). The ECU collects data from various sensors across the vehicle to ensure the internal combustion engine gets adequate air, fuel and spark at the right time to work as intended and run efficiently.

Although it’s just one of many eyes the ECU relies on to keep tabs on your vehicle’s performance, the cam sensor plays a more vital role than others. It ensures the camshaft’s position is optimal to support proper intake, compression, combustion and exhaust. One discrepancy can deprive intake and exhaust gases enough room to move freely.

As its name suggests, the camshaft position sensor only keeps an eye on the camshaft, which is at the top of an engine. This sensor reads how well your engine’s cylinders move to synchronize how your engine’s electric coils and fuel injectors activate.

However, the cam sensor is clueless about what’s going on with the bottom half. It works with the crankshaft position sensor to paint the whole picture for the ECU.

The crankshaft controls the movement of pistons. The position of pistons and valves must align to allow air and fuel to flow through correctly.

You can usually find a camshaft sensor in the valve cover at the top of your car’s engine. Sometimes, manufacturers will place it on a cylinder head. Depending on an engine’s complexity, there may be more than one.

Camshaft sensors are hardy. Their circuitry can operate in hostile environments and resist electromagnetic interference or power spokes. Most are magnetic and can generate an alternate current for the electronic control module. Some models do need a separate power source.

What Happens When a Camshaft Sensor Goes Bad?

Your vehicle’s cam sensor can fail due to normal wear and tear. If you get into an accident, the impact can damage this component. Regardless of the nature of its failure, it spells disaster. The ECU will receive low-quality information if it can’t collect and transmit accurate data, defeating the purpose of car engine monitoring for optimum performance.

When this happens, the vehicle can burn more fuel than necessary or less than needed. You may experience a rough engine idle from rest. Your engine may stall and turn your vehicle into a road hazard. You may not be able to start your car at all.

Symptoms of a Bad Camshaft Sensor

Diagnosing a camshaft position sensor failure can be challenging. It manifests itself in various car problems, which also suggest other issues. The most common symptoms include the following.

Illuminated Check Engine Light

A broken camshaft position sensor is one of the reasons this dashboard light comes alive. The other causes for concern include:

• Damaged alternator
• Defective ignition coils
• Dwindling fluid levels
• Dying battery
• Faulty wires
• Inoperative spark plugs
• Malfunctioning mass airflow sensor
• Missing catalytic converter
• Unsound exhaust pipe
• Vacuum leak
• Worn-out timing belt

The list goes on and on. Your car’s internal combustion engine has hundreds of parts, so it could be anything. Hooking a specialized computer into the onboard diagnostics-II port below the steering wheel near the door may aid your search.

Declining Fuel Efficiency

Aren’t you getting the same mileage out of your vehicle as before? Your camshaft position sensor may be shot. Clogged fuel injectors, an old air filter, a dirty oxygen sensor, unsuitable engine oil, deflated tires and misaligned wheels can also explain it.

Dirtier Emissions

Your automobile can’t burn fuel efficiently with a failing cam sensor. Expect the same result when you delay an oil change, there’s excessive fuel in the air/fuel mixture or your gas cap is loose.

Unburned Fuel Smell

If your camshaft sensor has seen better days, it can interfere with combustion. Your engine can’t burn all fuel, causing the unused amount to find its way out of the tailpipe and make its presence known by giving off a distinct gas odor.

Moreover, you can catch a whiff of gas fumes when your vehicle’s evaporative emissions system or fuel lines are leaky.

Transmission Shifting Woes

If your car enters limp mode to reduce the maximum speed it can go, its ECU may have detected something wrong with the cam position sensor, integrity of electrical wires or adequacy of transmission fluid level.

Engine Misfires

Camshaft sensors can have a hand in incorrect internal combustion reactions, and so can fuel mismatches, spark plugs, timing belts and vacuum lines.

Acceleration Hesitation

A compromised cam sensor is one of the reasons your engine may hesitate when stepping on the gas pedal, rendering your vehicle virtually impossible to drive. Other possibilities include issues with fuel delivery, the ignition system, circuits, vacuums and control modules.

While these symptoms could indicate other problems, a combination of these is common with a bad camshaft sensor.

Is It Safe to Drive With a Bad Camshaft Sensor?

The short answer is “no.” Though it might seem small and insignificant, your camshaft sensor sends vital information to the rest of your system, ensuring you can safely control your vehicle. You’ll put yourself and anyone else who drives your car at risk if you don’t remedy the issue as soon as possible.

Though everything could still be normal, you don’t want to take the chance.

How Long Can You Drive With a Bad Camshaft Sensor?

You could continue to drive with a bad cam sensor for as long as the engine doesn’t die. However, staying on the road without replacing your faulty component is ill-advised. The camshaft position sensor serves a critical function. Overlooking its significance endangers you, your fellow car occupants and the other motorists you cross paths with.

How Long Does It Take to Replace a Camshaft Sensor?

The good news is that changing your camshaft sensor is easy, and many car owners choose to do it themselves. Consult your car’s maintenance handbook to find out the camshaft position sensor’s location under the hood and how to detach and reattach it as your vehicle’s manufacturer recommends.

These sensors are available at various price points at automotive stores or online marketplaces. Purchase a new model to ensure the replacement will properly function. 

While vehicles are different, adding a new camshaft sensor is generally straightforward. Once you disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the sensor, you’ll need to replace the O-ring seal and install the new sensor.

Avoid Driving With a Bad Camshaft Sensor

Your camshaft sensor is critical in ensuring your car operates safely and efficiently. If you suspect you have a bad camshaft sensor, it’s best to address it immediately so your vehicle remains safe to drive and knows if there is a potential problem. 

With a little research, replacing your camshaft sensor is fairly easy. Consult with an experienced mechanic if you have any questions about whether you properly replaced it.

Looking to learn more? Check out our complete car maintenance checklist and work your way toward becoming an expert home mechanic.

Originally posted 11/16/2023 – Updated 8/9/2024

The post Is It Safe to Drive with a Bad Camshaft Sensor? appeared first on Modded.

When you think of luxury vehicles, you picture Porsche. The German automaker has been in business since 1931 and has produced some of the best sports cars money can buy. Manufacturing these expensive cars requires time and dedication, and you can see the high quality of each vehicle. So, where is Porsche made? Here’s what you need to know about the automaker’s European and Asian production locations. 

Where Is Porsche Made in Germany?

There seems to be a misconception in the automotive world. While many luxury automakers are in Italy, it’s safe to say Porsche is not Italian. This manufacturer is German to the core, so let’s examine how it got its start in central Europe.

Ferdinand Porsche, Adolf Rosenberger and Anton Piëch founded Porsche in this European country shortly before World War II. Now, Germany is home to multiple locations that are integral to Porsche production. Here are the four locations showing where Porsche is from in Germany.

Zuffenhausen, Germany

The history of Porsche began in Zuffenhausen, Germany, a borough of Stuttgart. You may recognize this location because it’s the home of Mercedes-Benz. This German metro area is responsible for two critical automakers in luxury vehicle manufacturing! While it has moved temporarily, Porsche’s primary manufacturing is in Zuffenhausen. 

The Zuffenhausen plant produces the most famous Porsche models, such as the 911, 718 Cyman and 718 Boxter. Zuffenhausen is where the first Porsche was made in 1931 and where it will continue for decades. Porsche recently upgraded its facilities to account for its increased electric vehicle (EV) production, thus signaling a new future for the company. 

Leipzig, Germany

When a company grows, it needs to have expansion plans. Porsche eventually outgrew its Zuffenhausen facility and needed a second home for its vehicle assembly, so it looked to Saxony — a major automotive hub in Germany. In 2002, Porsche opened the doors to its secondary facility in Leipzig and gave the world a glimpse of modern manufacturing. 

The Leipzig facility is critical to learning where Porsche is made because it’s home to the Panamera and Macan. While the automaker is famous for speed, these Porsches are integral to family-friendly performance on the road. Additionally, Leipzig is renowned for its racetrack. Porsche lets guests get the whole experience by riding in their sports cars around their grand prix course. 

Sachsenheim, Germany

Luxury cars rolling off production lines means you need a lot of parts. Most automakers source parts from around the globe, making vehicle construction more difficult when supply chain disruptions occur. For example, raw material shortages have slowed production for many automakers. However, Porsche dealers benefit from the Sachsenheim warehouse. 

This facility is a short drive from the Zuffenhausen plant and supplies your spare parts for your Porsche. It’s just 20km northwest of Stuttgart, providing a convenient location for spare part services. Porsche says the Sachsenheim warehouse sends parts to 800 destinations within 48 hours, emphasizing the terrific supply chain movement. 

Weissach, Germany

Building some of the world’s best cars means constantly innovating. If you don’t, the rest of the industry will lap you and leave you in the dust. How does Porsche improve its machines? Head to the research and development center in Weissach, Germany. This town is west of Zuffenhausen, Stuttgart, and is where the magic happens for Porsche. 

The Weissach facility is where every new Porsche idea is made. Experts take each concept and prototype and begin a rigorous testing process. Teams focus on design, track performance and wind tunnel testing for passenger cars and racecars. Porsche has a terrific Le Mans racing program, and the drivers can thank the Weissach engineers and designers for the advancements. 

Where Is Porsche Made Elsewhere in Europe?

Germany is synonymous with Porsche but isn’t the only country where the car is made. Finding the other European factory requires heading east to Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. The Slovakian factory is where you can find Porsche Cayenne production. While Leipzig started this vehicle’s assembly, Porsche moved it to Bratislava to give it full attention elsewhere. 

Bratislava is home to the Cayenne, whether the gas-powered or electric version. Last year, Porsche announced it would build the electric Cayenne in Slovakia, thus adding the fourth battery-electric vehicle to its lineup. How popular is the Cayenne? In 2022, it sold the most out of all Porsche models, reaching nearly 100,000 units. That’s an impressive feat for a luxury manufacturer. 

Where Is Porsche Made in Asia?

Europe is not the only continent where Porsche is made. While you won’t find any factories in North America, the luxury automaker has a pair of facilities in Asia. 

Kulim, Malaysia

Porsche recently made history by expanding its operations outside Europe for the first time. After its long history on the continent, the manufacturer opened a factory in Kulim, Malaysia, in 2022. The German company wanted to focus on the Malaysian market and the nation’s long-term economic growth. Now, Malaysian residents can get a locally made Cayenne. 

One of Porsche’s focus for the Malaysian factory was sustainability. The German auto giant prioritizes using less water, incorporating solar panels, harvesting rainwater and other resourceful techniques. While Porsche doesn’t make EVs here, the manufacturer has found different ways to ensure a greener future for its production facilities. The company said it would look into expansion and exporting to other countries based on market demand.  

Shanghai, China

If brand awareness is your goal, being in one of the world’s largest cities is wise. Shanghai, China, is home to one of Porsche’s most prominent engineering facilities. Here, the manufacturer’s experts research and develop the technology you see inside the vehicles. Infotainment, safety and other features are integral to Porsches, and Shanghai is where the magic happens.

The Shanghai facility includes a sizable lab where Porsche designers and engineers test technological concepts. This building’s location is strategic because it sets up the company for future success. Shanghai has 29.8 million people and a steady growth rate, so it’s an excellent place to set up satellite locations. Large cities mean more opportunities for Porsche to expand beyond Europe. 

Finding Where Porsche Is Made Internationally

Porsche is in the upper echelon of luxury manufacturers. Only names like Ferrari, Lamborghini and Bugatti can compete with this famous German automaker. Most Porsche facilities are in Germany and central Europe, but the company is looking elsewhere. Kulim and Shanghai are terrific starts for them. Will we ever see a Porsche production plant in the United States? 

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Mitsubishi is among the world leaders in producing cars, motorcycles, musical instruments and other hobby objects. The Delica is one of their most popular vehicles because it’s great for road trips and outdoor adventures. However, it’s unavailable in the United States. Could the Momentum 2030 initiative finally bring the big machine to America? Here’s your guide to the future of Mitsubishi North America.  

What Is the Mitsubishi Delica? 

Mitsubishi began Delica production in the late 1960s, following the rise in minibus popularity. These vehicles became prominent because of their versatility for road trips, protests and other cultural movements. While nearly 60 years old, the Delica has received numerous facelifts and upgrades through the years. The machine remains popular with outdoor enthusiasts because it’s durable and great for camping — just not in the United States. 

The Japanese manufacturer once produced the Delica in the United States under the Wagon name. Mitsubishi sent Wagons off production lines between 1987 and 1990 before ceasing sales. Why did the automaker build this minibus in America? Mitsubishi tried to take advantage of Chrysler’s minivan success by sending the Delica under a new name. Unfortunately, it didn’t last long due to poor handling and a lack of crash protection. 

What Is Mitsubishi Momentum 2030?

If you long for the Delica’s return, you may be in luck. Auto industry experts say an American rendezvous could be in store for this classic machine. Why are they enthusiastic? Look no further than Mitsubishi Momentum 2030. This renaissance aims to elevate the company as a top automotive manufacturer by introducing more vehicles by the decade’s end. Mitsubishi only has four machines in its lineup, but the Delica could rejoin it. 

What else does Mitsubishi Momentum 2030 entail? Mitsubishi wants to establish itself as a leader in sustainable machinery, so expect to see all-electric and hybrid options on dealership lots. These vehicles release zero harmful emissions into the atmosphere, so it makes sense for the automaker to focus on efficient cars. Electric vehicles (EVs) are terrific for the outdoors because they care for the environment more than gas-powered cars. 

Will Momentum 2030 Bring the Delica to the States?

Momentum 2030 should feature new cars and revive older models, so a Delica reboot could be in the cards. An Automotive News report says Mitsubishi wants to bring a passenger van to its American lineup. What will the vehicle look like? While it won’t resemble the 1960s versions, this potentially revamped Mitsubishi Delica appears futuristic. The auto industry got its first look at this van when the company unveiled the D:X concept last fall. 

In October 2023, Mitsubishi Motors showed the world its electric crossover with all-wheel control. The automaker didn’t directly name the Delica, but the next model certainly takes inspiration from the older minibus. This multipurpose vehicle (MPV) makes up for the qualities the previous Mitsubishi Delica models lacked. For instance, Mitsubishi prioritizes safety with the D:X by enhancing the body and making it more conducive to off-roading. You also get excellent fenders for improved strength.

What Mitsubishi Cars Can You Drive in the Meantime? 

Mitsubishi Momentum 2030 includes plans for the next six years, so it could be a while before all the automobiles come to fruition. What machines can you drive in the meantime? Here are all three vehicles in the current lineup. 

Eclipse

When you think of the Eclipse, you probably start thinking about family. This car belongs to Brian O’Conner in the Fast and the Furious movies and is integral to the movie’s lore. O’Conner used it in his first street race, setting up the rest of the franchise for epic competition. Celebrate Paul Walker by driving an Eclipse if you want to commemorate his character. While it was out of the lineup for a while, the Eclipse has returned. 

The 2024 Eclipse is now a crossover, as Mitsubishi focuses on the family-friendly side of the vehicle market. Despite having SUV characteristics, the Eclipse packs a punch with its turbocharged engine in the standard package. If you like rally cars, the Eclipse with the RALLIART trim could be up your alley. This edition has an excellent paint scheme with a white diamond finish around the vehicle. The car lets you indulge in luxurious accessories. 

Mirage G4

Unfortunately, 2024 is the last year we’ll see the Mirage. Mitsubishi announced last summer it would discontinue the model due to poor sales. The car’s sales dropped 57% compared to 2022, so the automaker will move on to other priorities. In the meantime, we’ll appreciate the car because it’s a terrific machine. Sedans still have a place in the 2020 automotive market, and the Mirage fills the niche better than other cars on dealership lots. 

Why does the Mirage stand out? Mitsubishi’s last sedan excels in fuel mileage, boasting 39 miles per gallon (mpg) for superb efficiency. Super fuel economy typically requires hybrid technology, but the Mirage nearly reaches 40 mpg without battery technology. Like other sedans, the Mirage has a low profile to aid its fuel economy. If you want enhanced efficiency, you don’t have to look further than the last Mitsubishi Mirage. 

Outlander

We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention Mitsubishi’s most popular vehicle. The Outlander is the automaker’s flagship machine, selling over 22,000 cars in the third quarter of 2023. You may wonder why Mitsubishi has two SUVs in its lineup, considering it only has three vehicles. A few differences between the Outlander and the Eclipse Cross are worth mentioning. One may be better for families than the other. 

The most significant distinction between the vehicles is the engine displacement. The Outlander has a bigger engine than the Eclipse Cross, thus giving you more horsepower on the open road. Size is another difference, considering the Outlander gives you a little more legroom in the front and back seats. The Eclipse Cross has the upper hand for safety, with a five-star safety rating from the National Highway Traffic Administration (NHTSA) compared to four for the Outlander. 

Anticipating Momentum 2030 and Next Mitsubishi Delica

The most prominent automakers in the U.S. include Toyota, Ford and General Motors (GM). Mitsubishi wants to use Momentum 2030 to join the elite group of auto manufacturers. How will they do it? The Japanese manufacturer has teased its fans with the D:X prototype built for road trips and off-roading. If everything goes to plan, Mitsubishi will debut new vehicles and overhaul old models for the American market.

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Starting a career in vehicle repossession can be fulfilling. However, the most persistent repo agent myths can obscure your view of this line of work.

Here are a few misconceptions about this occupation.

1. Repo Agents Stop at Nothing

Repossession is a legal procedure, so you must follow the law when performing your duties. The steps you must observe vary from state to state. You may or may not do your job without a court order or with a sheriff.

Generally, you can only repossess an item without breaching the peace. It may constitute taking a vehicle out of a closed garage unpermitted, threatening or using physical force, or refusing to stop when a debtor resists repossession.

2. Repo Agents Only Handle Cars

Most repo agents seize cars because automobiles are everywhere. However, you may serve clients that finance other assets, so don’t expect to deal exclusively with ordinary sedans, hatchbacks and pickup trucks. 

Creditors may contact you to tow trucks, motorcycles, all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) and recreational vehicles. Transporting aircraft, watercraft or any conceivable rented item, like a piece of technology, to a specific location can also be part of the job.

3. Repo Agents Don’t Locate Assets

Skip tracing is within the purview of repo agents. In states that disallow creditors from using kill switches, they rely on these pros to determine asset whereabouts.

Being limited to public records when locating assets is one of the most erroneous repo agent myths. If your target isn’t in the owner’s registered address, you can leverage all available technologies, including GPS trackers and plate scanners, to pinpoint its exact location.

4. Repo Agents Don’t Communicate With Owners

If you become a repo agent, asset recovery will only be one of your responsibilities. You may need to reach out to debtors through various mediums for collection purposes on behalf of your clients. You may have the authority to negotiate payments to collect past-due amounts.

5. Repo Agents Profit From Asset Sales

Like real estate agents, repo agents can earn commissions. However, the commission rate doesn’t depend on how much the loan securities sell for at auctions.

If you work as an independent contractor, you may receive compensation ranging from $150 to $400 per repossessed vehicle — plus bonuses when you do exceptional work. Some companies may have you on staff and pay you an annual salary of up to $70,000.

6. Repo Agents Are Evil

Repo agents exist to enforce legally binding agreements, not cause undue harm. Secured loans are much riskier without feasible enforcement mechanisms. In other words, repo agents help keep auto financing interest rates low. 

Repo Agent Myths Dispelled

Seizing something valuable to a person or company can be a stressful gig. Still, somebody has to do it to encourage borrowers to behave accordingly and uphold the sanctity of contracts. You’ll find this career worthwhile if you love motoring and respecting the law.

The post Debunking 6 Myths About Repo Agents appeared first on Modded.

Few things put a damper on a lovely Sunday drive in the countryside like a warning ding and a new visual alert signifying car trouble. What do the dashboard lights mean? Is the situation dangerous? What should you do about it, and do you have time to stop at the store before pulling into the mechanic’s shop? 

Although they may seem intimidating at first, your car dashboard symbols and meanings are no more difficult to understand than your smartphone icons. All it takes is the inside scoop on what they mean. Follow this guide to fix that malfunction with minimum fuss and expense while saving yourself stress. 

What Lights Should You See When You Start Your Car? 

If you’re the mindful sort, you might have observed that all of your lights come on when you first start your vehicle. Others don’t even notice, and that’s perfectly okay. This momentary flick of the lights indicates that your car has performed a self-test to ensure all systems are a go. It’s when a warning light remains lit or begins flashing during transit that you need to worry. 

To diagnose what dashboard lights mean, you must first understand that warning lights come in various colors. Red is the most severe, indicating a problem that warrants immediate attention. 

Yellow lights often refer to specific road conditions that require extra caution, such as your traction control switching on in the rain. White, light blue or green lights signify no trouble at all. They simply let you know that you have employed a certain feature, such as your headlights. 

Do Electric Cars Have the Same Dashboard Lights? 

Dashboard lights are necessarily different in an electric vehicle. For one, there’s no need for a gas gauge unless you’re driving a hybrid. However, manufacturers fill that space with stats on energy consumption, battery charge and anticipated range to ensure you don’t accidentally strand yourself without juice. 

However, some lights remain similar. For example, you’ll still receive various system warnings, such as low tire pressure. You might even get a little bonus in the form of eco-friendly alerts that applaud you for environmentally sound driving behaviors. 

How to Master Your Specific Dashboard 

Your car comes with an owner’s manual regardless of whether it is a traditional gas engine, EV or hybrid. Most folks toss it in their glove box and forget it. Do better — take it out and study that puppy. Better yet, take the time to review it with the sales associate before you buy. They can advise you on what the various symbols mean and what actions to take when they appear. 

A Car’s Driver Is It’s Most Important Safety Feature 

According to a recent study by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, a staggering 94% of automobile accidents result from human error. Although mechanical problems contribute, especially among those with limited income to maintain their vehicles, it pales in comparison to distracted driving or driving while sleepy, enraged or under the influence of drugs or alcohol. 

What does this mean for you when your dashboard lights come on? Your first order of business is to remain calm. Panic promotes irrational and impulsive behaviors that increase your accident chances. If a dashboard light appears, take a deep breath, observe the traffic around you and move to the shoulder or another location where it’s safe to pull over and park. 

Know yourself. If you lack mechanical savvy and have little desire to learn, invest in roadside assistance through your insurance carrier or opt for a third-party service like AAA. However, you might be able to troubleshoot what that dashboard light means by referring to this guide. 

13 Dashboard Lights and What They Mean 

Here’s what to do when you see one of these symbols appear on your dashboard. 

1. Check Engine Light 

This little guy may inspire more panic than any other, but it can often result from little more than failing to twist your gas cap all the way after filling up. Other check engine light meanings include: 

• Faulty catalytic converter
• Faulty mass air flow sensor 
• Aging spark plugs
• Faulty oxygen sensor
• Faulty ignition coil 
• Overheating 
• Vacuum leak 
• Oil pressure 
• Ignition system trouble 

It’s quite an extensive list. To pinpoint the precise problem, you’ll need a special computer that hooks to your car’s OBD-II port. You might know where this port is if you use an insurance carrier that rewards you for good driving — it’s typically located below the steering wheel near the driver’s side door. Your mechanic will have one, as do auto parts stores such as O’Reilly and AutoZone. You can purchase one for personal use or borrow theirs to troubleshoot and buy the parts you need for repair. 

2. Oil Light 

Your oil light is a serious signal that should inspire you to take rapid action if you value the life of your motor vehicle. Lack of lubrication causes friction that can seize up your engine, necessitating expensive repairs. It appears when oil pressure gets too low, or the existing oil becomes too broken down and contaminated to function properly. 

Please avoid driving when your oil light comes on. Your quick fix is to add more oil, which is why keeping some in your trunk at all times is a wise idea. Step two is to get your vehicle to the shop for an oil change. 

You can also change your oil at home, and while going to a shop is quicker and easier, it’s worth doing it yourself once or twice to get to know your car. The most dangerous aspect is properly elevating the vehicle to let you climb under it safely. Thin people with lifted rides might skip the jack, but otherwise, ensure you engage the parking brake and use chocks to keep the vehicle stationary while you work. 

When changing your oil at home, ensure you take proper steps to dispose of the used motor oil. While it’s illegal to dump it down the drain or into the wild, bringing it to an approved recycling facility lets manufacturers refine it for new use. Some mechanics shops offer oil recycling, albeit usually to regular customers, but you can also check with your local waste disposal service for disposal alternatives. 

3. Transmission Light 

Your transmission system warning light looks like a gear with an exclamation mark in the center. It may contain the words “at oil temp.” It indicates that your transmission fluid is overheating, which can happen when you have low fluids, high mileage and worn components. Those who have made this mistake when hauling an RV know it can also result from towing a too heavy load. 

When this light appears, pull over as soon as it is safe to do so. You should wait an hour or more before working on overheated engine components. Check your fluid levels, which may correct the problem. However, if damaged parts create the issue, you may have no choice but to repair or rebuild the transmission. It can cost a pretty penny and typically requires more specialized equipment than hobbyist DIYers keep in their home garages. 

4. Indicator Light 

This dashboard light looks super scary, but it’s surprisingly not a sign of immediate danger. However, it does increase your risk of an accident or receiving a ticket if pulled over. Your indicator light signifies that you have a light out somewhere, which can spell trouble if it’s a headlight or taillight that needs attention. 

The solution to this dashboard light is to locate the dead bulb and replace it. Plugging a computer into your car’s OBD-II port facilitates troubleshooting. 

5. Car With Squiggly Lines Light 

You might think that the car with squiggly lines dashboard light signifies a winding road ahead, which may or may not be true. What’s certain is that your car’s stability control system detects wheel slippage, problems or malfunctions. 

In general, the only action you need to take when this dashboard light appears is to slow down and drive more carefully, given wet or slick conditions. However, if it frequently lights up, and you live in Phoenix, AZ, not Seattle, WA, you should consult your mechanic. It may indicate a problem with your car’s traction system or an electrical issue causing the light to malfunction. 

6. Exclamation Point on Dash 

Any time an exclamation point appears within or next to another dashboard light, it indicates a fault in the system. For example, your tires should hold between 32 and 35 psi to perform at their best. An exclamation point inside two curved brackets with a rough bottom indicates that your tire pressure is low and you risk a flat. 

An exclamation point next to a steering wheel indicates a fault with your power steering system. Although you may technically be able to drive your vehicle, turning it transforms from a simple act to one requiring Herculean strength. Your ability to maneuver quickly avoids accidents, so get to the shop for repairs without delay. You may need to call for a tow, depending on how far you must travel. 

7. Part Time Light 

Once upon a time, switching to 4-wheel drive meant physically exiting your vehicle and locking your tires. Now, you can do so from inside your ride, but engaging temporary 4-wheel drive may cause a “part time” light to appear on your dash. It doesn’t mean your vehicle is in need of parts — it’s simply a reminder that you should switch back to 2-wheel drive before getting on the highway to avoid damaging your transmission. 

8. Fog Light 

Here’s a light that shouldn’t evoke any alarm when it appears on your dashboard. While your fog lights can drain your battery if left on when you turn off your car, the worst that can happen is you’ll later turn the key, and nothing will happen — which is bad if you’re running late for an appointment but not inherently dangerous. This dashboard light is simply a reminder to flick that switch before exiting your ride lest you strand your future self. 

9. Coolant Level Light 

If a drowning thermometer lights up on your dashboard, however, it’s time to take serious action. This light indicates that you are getting low on coolant, which puts you at risk of overheating. Your best course of action is to pull over, wait a sufficient time for the engine to cool and add more antifreeze. Water will do in an emergency but may contain impurities that damage your engine. 

Additionally, you should flush and replace your coolant every 30,000 miles or so or per your manufacturer’s instructions. As with changing your oil, it’s generally easier and just as cost-effective to take it to the shop — but getting your DIY groove on a time or two familiarizes you with your vehicle and gives you a sense of confidence in regards to auto mechanics. Go for it. 

10. ABS Sensor Light 

Your brakes are another area of your car you shouldn’t play with, so get to the shop if this light comes on. ABS stands for antilock braking system, which enhances your control on slick surfaces and replaces the old-fashioned need to pump your brakes when going into a skid. 

What’s dangerous about this dashboard light is that some people ignore it if their brakes otherwise work fine. However, many things can cause the system to malfunction, and getting to a shop is the only way to ensure that you can stop your vehicle quickly when necessary to avoid accidents. 

11. Airbag Warning Light 

If a light depicting a seated person with a circle above it appears, it indicates that there is a problem with the supplemental restraint system. Although it isn’t illegal to drive without airbags — they only came into popular use 50 years ago — doing so increases your risk of serious injury in an accident. 

Please note that your airbag warning light may not appear on your dashboard. For example, some models of 4WD vehicles intended for off-road use, like Jeeps, have them near the gear shift box, enabling drivers to manually disengage them when traversing bumpy roads to avoid accidental deployment. 

12. Battery Light 

Your battery light means something slightly different if you drive an electric vehicle. Such models often have various indicators to tell you how much charge remains and how far you can go before you need to plug in. However, on standard gas-powered vehicles, this icon indicates an issue with your battery or charging system. 

While it’s rare to lose power in transit as your engine keeps things moving, you could find yourself in need of a jump if you fail to address the issue. Often, a new battery is all you need, but worn cables, corrosion around the terminals or alternator issues could also prompt this light to appear. 

13. Low Fuel Light 

Here’s a dashboard light that nearly everyone recognizes. You probably also know what to do — get thee to the nearest gas station and fuel up. 

Special Note on Clearing Dashboard Lights 

Here’s another reason to invest in a computer for your OBD-II ports if you prefer to DIY rather than take your car to the shop. In general, dashboard lights disappear once you address the underlying cause that made them appear in the first place. However, it isn’t always automatic. Some models require you to clear the issue via this port manually — the check engine light is a notorious example. 

Clearing the issue should extinguish any remaining unwanted dashboard lights. However, pay attention if they reappear and seek help from a professional mechanic who specializes in your model to determine what further repairs you need. 

What Your Dashboard Lights Mean 

Seeing a new alert on your car isn’t fun. However, it’s cause for alarm, not panic. Understanding what your dashboard lights mean gives you peace of mind on the road. 

Print out this copy of car dashboard symbols and meanings to keep in your glove box. Let it be your handy guide to what to do when a strange, new dashboard light appears. 

Icons courtesy of Vecteezy.com

The post What Do Your Dashboard Lights Mean?  appeared first on Modded.

Regular maintenance, such as checking oil levels or changing your engine coolant, not only helps your vehicle last longer and perform better, but it also provides peace of mind when you’re on the road. You know, for the most part, your car will not break down. Consistent maintenance also helps prevent major issues that could ruin your trip(s), like overheating, head gasket leaks, and much more.

Some may not know that the coolant system needs maintenance, including filling the fluids, sometimes changing, and flushing to remove contaminants that have built up inside. It is called a radiator flush. Moreover, the coolant levels need to be checked, not unlike oil, to make sure there are no serious leaks. So, knowing how to change your engine coolant, check coolant levels, and flush the system are critical skills. This informative guide is going to walk you through all of that. Let’s get started.

What Does Engine Coolant Do?

But first, a primer on engine coolant and the radiator. Exactly what does coolant do?

Engine coolant is a liquid added to the coolant system. It cycles through the radiator to prevent engine damage from freezing or boiling temperatures. Because the engine produces lots of heat while running, the liquid effectively transfers it away, keeping everything from overheating.

In cold climates, it’s designed not to freeze inside the engine while also protecting its components. That’s why it’s important to use the right type of coolant for your vehicle, but also the right type of coolant for the season and local conditions. Coolant will typically come in one of three types: Inorganic Additive Technology (IAT), Organic Acid Technology (OAT) and Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT). In most cases, a quick search online will tell you which is needed for your make and model.

While today’s advanced vehicles can sometimes go decades or longer without needing a coolant change, that’s not always the case. It’s still essential to check coolant levels to ensure there are no leaks and ensure you have the proper coolant in your vehicle. It’s also great to know how to change your engine coolant or check the levels in case of a problem.

Changing the fuel, oil, and air filters, rotating the tires, changing brake pads, monitoring the radiator and checking coolant levels are some of the most critical car maintenance items to consider.

Why Checking Your Coolant Matters

Your car’s cooling system is integral to normal operation, and the radiator and engine coolant play a big part. Combustion engines create energy by burning fuel, with combustion temperatures ranging from 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit to 4,500 degrees Fahrenheit. Engine coolant helps keep those temperatures regulated. 

Your vehicle may overheat without enough coolant to transfer some of the heat away from the engine. Worse yet, that can eventually damage some of the engine’s components, leading to significant malfunctions later. There are a few reasons your car’s engine might overheat, but one of the more common causes is low coolant or a lack thereof.

A leak is also a problem, as eventually, enough coolant will not be left in the system. However, it can also be a source of contamination, dirtying the coolant fluid or making it less effective over time. Common signs of a leak include fluid puddles under your car, low coolant levels observed, an overheating engine, and a sweet smell around your vehicle. The only way to recognize these problems — before they create a massive headache — is to regularly check your coolant levels to ensure there’s enough in the system. While doing this, you can also check the coolant fluid’s color, which will give you some indication of your coolant system and radiator’s health.

How to Check Coolant Levels

From here on out, you’ll need a dedicated workspace, which means you might need to create one. The garage or driveway is a great choice, but you’ll need plenty of room and a safe, open area where nothing can get in your way. The good news is that once you have a spot, you can also use it for oil changes and other DIY car maintenance tasks.

Safety Tip: Don’t check your coolant levels while the engine is on, and if the car has been driven recently, let it cool off before you pop the hood.

1. Open the hood of your vehicle and identify the coolant reservoir. It’s a dedicated tank for checking coolant levels and refilling. Usually, it’s made of clear or white plastic.
2. Carefully remove the cap from the reservoir and ensure it’s full of coolant. Coolant fluid comes in various colors, such as blue, red, green, or even yellow. Don’t be alarmed by the color itself.
3. Inspect the fluid for discoloration. If you notice small particles, rusty residue, oils or sludge, it’s a sign that there may be a leak somewhere. If the coolant is colorless, that’s also a problem, and you’ll want to have your vehicle inspected by a mechanic.
4. It’s okay if the coolant needs to be topped up a little. However, if fluid levels are extremely low, you have a leak. That needs to be repaired before you take any extended road trips. Optionally, you can also use a device called a “Coolant Tester” to assess the quality of the coolant in your system.

How to Put Coolant in Cars

Provided there are no major leaks, you can simply fill your vehicle’s coolant reservoir. While some older cars do not have a reservoir, it’s not common enough to be a problem.

It’s important to note that you cannot put pure, undiluted coolant fluid into the system. You must make a mixture of 50/50 concentrated coolant and distilled water or buy a diluted coolant solution from an auto store. Most modern forms of coolant come ready to use and are already mixed.

It is also important not to mix different types of coolant by putting more than one type in your vehicle’s system. If you change coolant fluid types, you must first flush out the system — which is precisely why we’re explaining how to flush coolant in this guide.

How to Change Engine Coolant

It depends on who you talk to, but most auto manufacturers recommend changing the coolant every 30,000 miles or so. Others, like Chevrolet, recommend flushing and changing at 150,000 miles.

You’ll first need to flush out the system to change the type of coolant fluid in your vehicle, such as going from a high-temperature solution to one meant for cold climates. The only exception is if you’re adding more of the same fluid.

1. If the vehicle was recently used, turn off the engine and allow it time to cool down. When it’s ready, open the hood.
2. Jack up the car and make sure it’s secure — so it won’t roll or fall.
3. Locate the radiator and look for the radiator drain or petcock. It’s usually positioned on the low part of the radiator and held in place with a single screw.
4. Position a large drain pan or bucket below the area and allow it to drain.

If your vehicle does not have a radiator drain, you’ll simply need to loosen and open a connected hose like the auxiliary coolant pump line. It will likely be messy and may take longer to drain.

With the old coolant drained, now’s a great time to flush out the system and clean it.

How to Flush Coolant Systems the Right Way

There are cleaning chemicals and mixtures you can purportedly use to flush out the coolant system, but your best choice will always be distilled water since that’s what you mix coolant with anyway.

If you opened a line or the radiator drain in the previous step, close everything back up before moving on with the flush. 

1. Fill the system with distilled water and nothing else by pouring it into the reservoir. 
2. Wait a minute or two, then start the car and let it run for a few minutes. That will allow the engine to heat up, open the thermostat, and cycle the distilled water through the system.
3. Turn off the engine and let the car cool down.
4. Once the engine is cool, you can drain the distilled water like you drained the coolant in the previous step. Open the radiator drain or use a hose if there isn’t a drain.

Pay attention to the water that drains out of the system. At first, it might have some color, but if it’s persistent throughout, you may need to do another flush. You’re good to go if you see clear water coming out. You can repeat the coolant flushing process as often as needed.

What Does It Mean to Bleed a Coolant System?

Bleeding or “burping” a system is necessary to remove air bubbles from a liquid or oil-based solution. For example, you may also need to bleed the brake lines when you change or adjust brake pads. Air bubbles in the coolant line can reduce efficiency, causing more overheating or component damage and may even result in catalyzed engine wear.

After flushing the coolant system, you should also make a habit of bleeding it.

How to Bleed Coolant Systems: Remove Air from the Lines

1. With the car still jacked up, remove the radiator cap on top of the radiator. If there’s an overflow tank, remove the cap from that tank instead.
2. OPTIONAL: If you have a newer vehicle, locate the bleeding valve on the radiator. This is optional because not all cars have one. It looks like a small screw protruding out. Open the valve before adding coolant by loosening it. You may hear air escape before coolant leaks out.
3. Using a funnel that fits perfectly inside the cap hole — you may need an adapter to create a tight seal — slowly pour coolant into the system. You want to add about two to three liters per minute, enough to cycle the coolant and create a flow but steady enough so you’re not adding more air bubbles.
4. Pour until the coolant level reaches the ‘full’ mark on the inside of the tank, if using the overflow tank, or until it brims at the top of the radiator. Leave the funnel and seal in place. If you’re using the bleeding valve method when you see pure coolant leaking out and no air, you can close the valve.
5. Clear the engine, turn on the car and crank the AC to full heat. This will open up the heater core, and you can rev the engine a little to speed up the process.
6. As the engine heats, bubbles may appear or “burp” out of the funnel. You want this, and the process is bleeding out the air.
7. The coolant may rise or fall. This is okay. However, if the coolant in the reservoir drops below the “full” mark, add more and continue bleeding.
8. Turn off the engine and let it cool down. The coolant level may drop as it cools. You can top up with more, but be careful not to overfill.
9. Remove the funnel and close up the tank(s) or system when finished.

That’s it! You’ve bled the air bubbles out of your radiator and coolant system.

How to Change Engine Coolant: Refilling the System

If you followed the steps to flush out your system and bleed the air bubbles, your coolant should have already been replaced. If not, the best way to refill and refresh coolant is to simply pour it slowly into the main reservoir or tank.

Remember, you must use the same coolant, and you should never mix different types together and add them to the system. Just the standard 50/50 mixture with distilled water and concentrated coolant will do.

Take It for a Drive!

Now that you’ve learned how to change your engine coolant and done the maintenance, it’s time to enjoy the fruits of your labor. Start up the car and take it for a nice drive. As a reward for your hard-earned time, get yourself a cold beverage or some ice cream.

Remember, just like the oil, windshield washer fluid, and other fluids in your vehicle, you should check the coolant levels from time to time. This is to help spot a leak early before it causes damage and ensure there’s enough coolant in the system to keep it running optimally. You can also quickly check for residues, sludge, and other contaminants that might have made it into the coolant from a leak.

Regularly scheduled maintenance is the way to go, helping you catch potential problems before they become a major hindrance. This is especially important if it’s your primary vehicle, as you want to keep it running for years to come.

Not sure that coolant is really your issue? At Modded, we’ve got you covered. Check out our list of common car engine problems (and how to solve them) or go beyond the engine with our list of DIY car repairs anyone can take on.

The post How to Change Your Engine Coolant appeared first on Modded.

Lane filtering — the practice of motorcyclists moving between lanes to pass slow or stopped traffic — is gaining relevance as more riders seek efficient commuting solutions. As urban congestion increases, lane filtering offers a way to reduce travel time and improve traffic flow. 

However, its safety and legality vary by region, making understanding the benefits and potential drawbacks crucial. You can make informed decisions that enhance your safety and compliance with local regulations by weighing the pros and cons.

What Is Lane Filtering?

Lane filtering occurs when you ride your motorcycle between slow-moving or stationary traffic lanes, typically at lower speeds. It’s often confused with lane splitting, which involves moving between lanes at higher speeds, even in traffic.

The legality of lane filtering varies widely. Some places, like California, explicitly permit it. Meanwhile, others have no explicit laws, and some regions expressly prohibit it. Understanding these differences and local regulations is essential to ensure you’re riding safely and legally.

Pros of Lane Filtering

Exploring the benefits of lane filtering reveals several advantages for motorcyclists and overall traffic flow. Here are some key pros that make it a valuable practice for many riders.

Reduced Traffic Congestion

With leane filtering, you can navigate traffic more efficiently, avoiding the frustration of being stuck in jams. It reduces your travel time and contributes to smoother traffic flow overall. For instance, in Mexico City, travel time can be up to 63% longer during heavy traffic.

By filtering through lanes, you can reach your destination faster, bypassing car delays. This efficiency is particularly beneficial in cities with notorious traffic congestion. It saves you time and helps alleviate overall traffic congestion, as motorcycles occupy less space on the road than cars.

Time Efficiency for Riders

With lane filtering, your commutes become quicker, especially during rush hours. This advantage can lead to significant time savings, allowing you to avoid the delays that plague car drivers. For context, the typical U.S. driver lost 51 hours to congestion in 2022, averaging about an hour each week.

The ability to bypass traffic jams means you spend less time idling and more time moving toward your destination. Reducing the time spent in traffic enhances the commuting experience and contributes to a more predictable and manageable schedule.

Stress Reduction for Riders

Lane filtering helps you avoid the frustration of being stuck in traffic, which can improve your mental well-being. Instead of enduring long periods of inactivity, you can keep moving, which makes your ride more enjoyable and less stressful.

Moreover, the reduced time in traffic translates to less fatigue for you as a rider. Sitting in traffic can be physically and mentally draining, but lane filtering lets you stay active and alert. This constant movement keeps your mind engaged and focused, reducing the chances of irritation or anxiety due to traffic delays.

Decreased Risk of Rear-End Collisions

When lane filtering, you lower your chances of being hit from behind while stationary. This is a significant safety advantage, especially at traffic lights and stop signs, where rear-end collisions are common. In 2021, 7.5% of fatal crashes involved rear-end collisions, highlighting the risk you face when sitting idle in traffic. By moving between lanes, you can avoid this danger and enhance your safety on the road.

Another crucial benefit of lane filtering is increased safety at traffic lights and stop signs. Instead of being a stationary target, you remain more visible and dynamic, which reduces the likelihood of being involved in a rear-end collision. This proactive approach to riding keeps you safer and builds your confidence and peace of mind while navigating busy roads.

Cons of Lane Filtering

While lane filtering offers many benefits, it’s also essential to consider the potential drawbacks. Here are some disadvantages that you should consider before deciding to filter lanes.

Increased Risk of Side Collisions

One significant downside of lane filtering is the likelihood of accidents with vehicles changing lanes unexpectedly. When cars shift lanes without warning, it can create a hazardous situation for you as a motorcyclist, potentially leading to severe accidents.

In 2021, there were over 1,0000 fatal sideswipe incidents in the U.S., underscoring the dangers you face when lane filtering. These accidents occur when drivers fail to check their blind spots or signal their intentions. Awareness of this risk is crucial, highlighting the importance of staying vigilant and riding defensively.

Legal Ambiguity in Some Areas

Another drawback of lane filtering is the need for clear regulations in many areas, which can lead to legal troubles. While some regions explicitly permit this practice, others have ambiguous or no specific laws addressing it. This uncertainty can make it difficult to know whether you’re riding legally, increasing the risk of fines or penalties.

You could face legal consequences if caught in regions where lane filtering is not explicitly allowed. Law enforcement might issue tickets or fines, adding stress and financial burden to your riding experience.

Reduced Visibility for Motorcyclists

When lane filtering, you might experience difficulty seeing and being seen by other drivers. This situation can be particularly challenging in busy traffic where visibility is compromised. Drivers may not always notice you moving between lanes, increasing the risk of accidents as you navigate tight spaces.

The risk is further amplified at night or in poor weather conditions when visibility is lower. Rain, fog or darkness can make it harder for drivers to spot you and for you to see obstacles. This heightened danger requires extra caution and awareness to ensure safety while filtering through lanes in less-than-ideal conditions.

Potential for Unsafe Riding Practices

Lane filtering sometimes encourages reckless behavior among some riders, leading to dangerous situations. It’s important to remember that driver error is one of the most common causes of motorcycle accidents. When filtering, some riders might be tempted to speed or weave through traffic without proper caution, increasing the risk of collisions.

Not adhering to safe riding practices puts yourself and others at greater risk. Speeding or erratic movements can catch other drivers off guard, leading to accidents that could have been avoided with more careful riding.

Making Informed Decisions for Safe Lane Filtering

Following local laws and riding safely are crucial to minimizing lane filtering risks. Weigh the benefits and drawbacks carefully to make informed decisions that enhance your safety and riding experience.

The post Pros and Cons of Lane Filtering for Motorcyclists appeared first on Modded.

Brake pads are small, but vital pieces of your vehicle. With the rotor, caliper assembly and a little help from some brake fluid, they’re responsible for bringing your car to a stop, and keeping the roads safe. If you need to replace them, you should know how to change brake pads the right way.

How Much Does it Cost to Change Brake Pads?

The cost will vary depending on whether you decide to change the brakes yourself or hire a professional, but the final expense should fall within the following price ranges.

• Parts and tools cost between $35 and $150.
• Labor costs between $80 and $120 per axle.
• Total cost: between $115 and $300

If you opt for a DIY project, you only need to acquire the right parts. Keep in mind that auto manufacturers price their parts differently, so your car’s parts might be more expensive than other vehicles. If you want to hire a professional, their hourly rates have a wide range and will have the most impact on the bottom line. Make sure you research at least a few body shops in your area to get the best deal.

How to Change Brake Pads by Yourself

Changing brake pads by yourself isn’t necessarily easy, but the process is straightforward enough compared to other mechanical fixes. First, make sure you have enough space to complete the project. A flat driveway or one-car garage should suffice. Then, you have to purchase the right parts and tools. Here’s what you’ll need:

• Brake pads, rotors, fluid and cleaner
• Disc brake pad spreader set
• Floor jack, jack stand
• Torque wrench, other essential tools
• Eye protection, gloves

Once you have everything you need, park your car and clear out the surrounding area to have more floor space. You’re ready to get started!

1. Inspect the Brakes

First, you should perform a close inspection of your current brake pads. They usually wear out at around the 50,000-mile mark, but that number dramatically varies. Consult your owner’s manual for the correct estimate and look for the telltale signs. Worn-down brakes tend to make squeaking and grinding noises when the car slows down and a slight bounce when the car comes to a stop. 

You should also check your brake fluid level. If the reservoir has too much fluid, it can move around and spill onto other parts while you work on the car. Remove a little bit of fluid if necessary.

2. Loosen the Lug Nuts

Loosen the lug nuts on your wheels with a breaker bar and socket so they’re easier to take off when you lift the vehicle into place. The disc brake pad spreader set should include these tools. Some lug nuts may be more challenging to remove than others, so it’s best to put your weight on the wrench for extra leverage. 

3. Lift the Car into Position

Put the floor jack into place and slowly lift the car. Place the jack stands in spots that support the vehicle’s weight, then slowly lower the car again until it rests comfortably on the stands. With the car in place, you’re ready to begin removing parts.

4. Remove the Lug Nuts, Wheels and Caliper Bolts

Take out the lug nuts that you loosened earlier, then remove the wheel. Now you should see the caliper bolts. If they’re not visible, turn the steering wheel slightly until you can see them. Use the torque wrench to unscrew them. Removing the caliper bolts will allow you to take apart the other important parts of the caliper assembly.

5. Remove the Old Brake Pads and Rotor

Remove the old pads and inspect them for uneven or excessive wear. Those patterns usually mean that the brake pads lack enough lubrication, which can significantly decrease the pads’ lifespan. From there, remove the brake caliper, brake caliper bracket and rotor in that order. These parts should come off if you unscrew the caliper bolts correctly. A rusty rotor might stick, so get help from a rust penetrant or a hammer if necessary.

6. Prepare the Rotor Mounting Surface, New Rotor and Brake Pads

With all of the parts removed, you can prepare to install the new brake pads. Start by cleaning the rotor mounting surface with a wire brush, steel wool or another thick substance to remove rust. Use the brake cleaner to wipe off the rotor and new brake pads (they might be new, but you should still clean them before attaching them). Your new pads should come with their own clips, but if they didn’t,  clean off your old clips as well. 

7. Attach the New Rotor and Pads

Attach the rotor, then apply brake lubricant at the clip contact points. After using the lubricant, install the brake pads in the same position as you found the old pads. It’s helpful to take photos during this process so you can reference them later on.

8. Inspect the Brake Caliper and Piston

Check the brake caliper and piston for any fluid leaks. If everything looks dry and clean, use the disc brake pad spreader to secure the caliper piston. Once the piston is secure, you’re ready to reinstall the brake caliper.

9. Adjust the Caliper Assembly

Put the brake caliper back into place. Tighten it only as much as you need to. If a caliper is too tight, it restricts the braking process and can quickly damage the brake pads. Use a torque wrench to get adequate tightness.

10. Make Sure the Brake Fluid is Working

Look at the brake fluid reservoir for any spillage or overflow. If you have a sufficient amount, pump your car’s brakes lightly to make sure the fluid has reached the brakes and is doing its job.

11. Reattach the Wheel and Lower the Vehicle

Put the wheel back into place and secure it with the lug nuts. Use the jack to raise the vehicle off the stands, remove the stands and promptly lower the car back down to the ground. If you got this far, you’ve successfully changed a brake pad on your vehicle!

12. Bed the Brakes

To be 100% sure that your DIY project worked, take the car out for an easygoing test drive. Accelerate to a decent highway speed, then slow down to about half the speed and stay in cruise control for a few minutes. Repeat this process several times so you successfully “bed the brakes” and prepare them for full-time use. 

How to Change Brake Fluid

1. Ensure You Have the Correct Tools

Make sure you have the tools needed to successfully change your vehicle’s brake fluid.

• Brake fluid (make sure to use the type specified in your vehicle’s manual)
• Wrench or brake bleeder wrench
• Clear plastic tubing
• Brake bleeder kit
• Jack and jack stands or a vehicle lift
• Wheel chocks
• Turkey baster or similar tool
• Container for old brake fluid
• Safety glasses and gloves

2. Preparation

Park your vehicle on a flat surface. Use the wheel chocks to prevent the car from moving or rolling backwards. Look at the car manual to ensure you use the correct brake fluid.

3. Raise the Vehicle

Use a jack lift to lift the car and place it securely on jack stands. Ensure the vehicle is stable before you begin working underneath it.

4. Locate the Master Cylinder

Open the hood and locate the brake master cylinder reservoir. You can typically find this near the back of the engine bay, toward the driver’s side.

5. Remove Old Fluid

Using a turkey baster or similar tool, remove as much old brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder reservoir. Be careful not to spill brake fluid, as it can damage paint and other surfaces. 

6. Refill With New Brake Fluid

Refill the cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid to the recommended level.

7. Bleed the Brakes

Starting with the brake furthest from the cylinder — usually the right back — locate the brake bleeder valve on the brake caliper or wheel cylinder. Attach a clear plastic tube on the bleeder valve, with the other end submerged in a container partially filled with brake fluid to prevent air from entering the system. 

Have someone help you pump the brake pedal several times, then hold it down. Loosen the bleeder valve slightly to allow fluid and air to escape. Once the fluid runs clear without bubbles, tighten the valve and instruct someone to release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until only clear fluid comes out of the bleeder valve. 

8. Repeat for All Wheels

Follow the specific bleeding sequence in your vehicle’s manual. Refill the master cylinder with new fluid as needed to prevent it from running dry.

9. Check for Leaks

Once you’ve bled all the brakes, check the bleeder valves and master cylinder for any leaks. Tighten them as necessary.

10. Lower the Vehicle

Carefully lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the jack.

11. Do Final Checks

Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir once last time, and top it off if necessary. Pump the brake pedal to ensure it feels firm. If it feels spongy, there may still be air in the system, and you’ll need to bleed the brakes again.

How Long Do Brake Pads Last?

Your brake pads should last around 50,000 miles, but it all depends on the make and model of your vehicle. Aggressive driving with harsh braking and carrying heavy loads can significantly reduce brake pad life, sometimes as low as 15,000 miles. On the other hand, gentle driving can extend it to 70,000 miles or more. Organic pads wear out faster, generally lasting 20,000 to 40,000 miles, while semi-metallic and ceramic pads are much more durable, often lasting 30,000 to 70,000 miles. 

When to Replace Brake Pads

Signs that brake pads need replacement include squealing or screeching noises, grinding sounds, reduced braking performance, a brake warning light and visual inspection showing pad thickness below ¼ inch. If you notice that the car is vibrating more than usual, it may actually suggest that you’re due for a tire rotation instead.

Inspect your brake pads regularly, avoid aggressive braking and maintaining the braking system can help extend the life of your brake pads and ensure vehicle safety. 

How Often to Replace Brake Rotors

You generally need to replace rotors every 50,000 to 80,000 miles, though this can vary based on driving habits, vehicle type and rotor quality. Aggressive driving, frequent hard braking and driving in hilly or mountainous areas can accelerate wear, requiring more frequent replacements. Additionally, driving in conditions that expose rotors to a lot of dirt and debris — such as off-road driving — can also shorten their life span. 

Signs that you need to replace your rotors include vibrations or pulsations in the brake pedal, scoring or grooves on the rotor surface and a noticeable reduction in braking performance. You can identify worn or damaged rotors by regularly inspecting them and doing routine maintenance. Maintaining the entire braking system can extend the life of your rotors. 

How to Replace Brake Rotors

To replace your brake rotors, you’ll need the following:

• Jack and jack stands
• Lug wrench
• Socket set and ratchet 
• C-clamp or brake caliper tool
• Brake cleaner
• New brake rotors
• Torque wrench

1. Prepare Your Car

Park the car on an even surface. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels slightly before jacking up the car. Use a jack to lift the vehicle and secure it on jack stands. 

2. Remove the Wheel and Brake Caliper

Fully remove the lug nuts and the wheel. Locate the brake caliper and remove the bolts holding it in place using a socket wrench. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor and suspend it using a piece of wire or a bungee cord. Don’t let it hang by the brake hose. 

3. Remove the Caliper Bracket and Old Rotor

Remove the bolts securing the caliper bracket to the knuckle. Slide the old rotor off the wheel hub. If it’s stuck, tap it gently with a rubber mallet. 

4. Install the New Rotor

Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove any protective coating. Place the new rotor onto the wheel hub.

5. Reassemble the Brakes

Reattach the caliper bracket and torque the bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications. Compress the brake caliper piston using a C-clamp or brake caliper tool. Reinstall the brake caliper over the new rotor and secure it with bolts.

6. Reinstall the Wheel

Put the wheel back on, hand-tighten the lug nuts, then lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications. 

7. Test the Brakes

Press the brake pedal a few times to ensure the caliper piston is correctly seated. Test drive the vehicle at low speeds to ensure everything is working correctly. While it’s not always necessary, it’s best to change brake pads and rotors at the same time. Both parts work together to optimize braking performance.

Know Your Vehicle

Every car owner should be well-versed in mechanical terms and practices because you never know when you’ll have to fix something yourself. Professional body shops are valuable resources for major fixes, but you should know the basics of how to swap brake pads and make other small changes to your vehicle. If you think you’re up to the challenge, follow this step-by-step guide to changing brake pads so you can get back on the road!

Originally published 2/21/2022 — Updated 6/10/2024

The post How to Change the Brake Pads on Your Car appeared first on Modded.

Tire rotation is vital to keeping your vehicle roadworthy. It’s not car maintenance 101, though. Wondering how to rotate tires rarely crosses the average motorist’s mind since service technicians generally handle this task. Many car owners are unaware of it being a thing, while others are disinterested in it because it needs some elbow grease.

However, doing it is one thing. Knowing how to when needed is another. A proper understanding of tire rotation is a badge of honor for gearheads.

For non-auto enthusiasts, this skill can make you more self-sufficient, boost your confidence as a car owner, and save you trips to the mechanic — not to mention cash — on many occasions.

Are you ready to get your hands dirty? Let’s get started!

What Does It Mean to Rotate Tires?

Rotating your tires means periodically changing each of your tires’ positions on your vehicle. If you’ve owned your automobile long enough, the service crew has likely rotated its tires for you during past scheduled maintenance sessions.

There’s a science behind tire rotation, so you can’t just remove all wheels and assign them to random axles. Incorrect orientation does more harm than good, so ensure you know which one goes where before jacking up your vehicle and picking up your lug wrench.

Why Do You Rotate Tires?

Changing your vehicle’s tire positions regularly is crucial to ensure even treadwear. Front tires generally wear the fastest, regardless of the drivetrain. These tires bear the brunt of acceleration, steering and braking.

In front-wheel drive (FWD) vehicles, the engine transmits power to the front wheels, which are responsible for steering and traction, causing their rubber to wear more quickly. Rear-wheel drive (RWD), all-wheel drive (AWD) and four-wheel drive (4WD) systems distribute power more evenly to all wheels, resulting in more balanced wear across front and rear tires.

Regardless of your vehicle’s drivetrain, tire rotation is necessary for various reasons.

Tire and Suspension Longevity

Not rotating your tires as frequently as you should will lead to unequal tread loss, especially when combined with aggressive driving maneuvers. Tires don’t last forever but should age at the same rate. Otherwise, you’d have to retire them ahead of what their treadwear grade suggests.

Replacing a worn-out tire is more expensive than you think. If the problem tire is too damaged relative to the others, you may have to buy at least one set, doubling your expense. You may often have to replace all four to eliminate any imbalance.

Also, there’s no wiggle room regarding tire options. Unless you’re replacing them all, you must stick with the remaining set’s brand, model and specifications. Any mismatch can negatively affect your drivetrain’s integrity and your vehicle’s drivability.

Uneven tread loss can produce unusual vibrations that can damage your suspension system prematurely. The faster you go, the more intense the vibration.

Safety

2022 saw 562 people die from tire-related accidents, so skipping tire rotation is a serious road safety issue. Wear unevenness increases friction by forcing your tires to move at various speeds. More friction translates to more heat. High temperatures accelerate treadwear, starting a vicious cycle.

Hydroplaning — when your vehicle slides on the road uncontrollably — is another cause for concern. Treads produce traction, allowing you to properly steer your vehicle when the rubber meets the road.

Losing substantial tread depth due to significant wear diminishes your tires’ grip on surfaces, especially during inclement weather. It can cause your vehicle to go where it shouldn’t inadvertently. Tires optimized for gripping into snow and ice may spin out of control under slippery conditions with irregular treads.

You’re more likely to encounter blowouts when you seldom rotate your tires. A super worn-out tire develops a thin spot after experiencing extreme strain. The thinner this soft underbelly becomes, the more prone it is to being punctured upon contact with any sharp object.

Bringing a spare tire and knowing the best practices when dealing with a blowout on a highway — such as demobilizing your vehicle, making yourself prominently visible to other motorists and inflating a doughnut tire to at least 60 pounds per square inch — helps. Still, the terror of hearing a loud noise out of nowhere can cause you to lose your grip amid high-speed traffic.

Comfort

Smooth rides owe themselves to evenly worn tires. If you commute often and are familiar with how your vehicle normally feels on the road, you may sense something strange when treadwear unevenness becomes undeniable. This experience can cause physical and mental discomfort, distracting you from driving properly.

Fuel Efficiency

Rotating your tires is a surefire way to get more miles per gallon, boost your vehicle’s fuel economy and reduce your regular auto expenses. Your vehicle’s engine detects insufficient traction and compensates by using more gas or diesel to help you stay in control.

Warranty Adherence

Regular rotation is one of the requirements to keep your tire warranty valid. Falling short of this expectation voids this written guarantee, absolving your tires’ manufacturer of any responsibility to address any legitimate product defects.

Auto Insurance Premium Stagnation

Disproportionate treadwear can indirectly inflate your car insurance rate. Your driving record is a significant factor dictating whether your premium will go up or down. It reflects your car maintenance commitment as well as your ticket and accident histories.

Preserving a spotless driving record is challenging without uneven tire wear, which, by default, renders your vehicle less roadworthy. Even skilled motorheads are prone to crashes when behind the wheel of a less drivable sedan, hatchback or light-duty truck.

If you file a claim after getting into a vehicular accident due to a highly worn-out tire, you’ll give your insurance carrier to jack up your premium — a double whammy.

When to Rotate Tires

The average rotation interval is 6,000-8,000 miles, but some tire makers may deviate from this typical range. To precisely know how often to rotate tires, check your tire manufacturer’s recommendation — or requirement when you still have an active warranty.

Furthermore, you may have to rotate ahead of schedule for various reasons.

You Can’t Remember the Last Time

Driving infrequently may seem to slow tire deterioration, but it isn’t necessarily the case. Hitting the road with underinflated tires erodes tread mileage, slashing a considerable portion of your tires’ expected service life.

Spending less time on the road may lull you into a false sense of security that your tires’ treads are still deep enough for ample traction. When you can’t recall your vehicle’s last rotation session because it takes you forever to hit the mileage threshold, it may be a sign you need to pay more attention to tire maintenance.

Look for evidence of unequal tread loss. If one of your tires seems to be losing more rubber than the others, rotate and inflate them accordingly. You can skip replacement when the tread depth in your front tires’ major grooves is 4/32 inch or deeper while that of your rear ones is 2/32 inch.

You Can See Lincoln’s Head

If you do the Penny Test and note that Abraham Lincoln’s head is inconsistently visible, it’s a sign of uneven tread wear. You may have to hit the panic button when Abe’s head is peeking, for it indicates the tread loss is significant enough to reduce your vehicle’s ability to grip the road in challenging weather conditions.

You Notice Odd Wear Patches

Some cases of tire wear are too obvious to ignore. When a tire’s grooves appear shallower than those of the other tires, you should rotate it sooner rather than later.

You Feel Your Vehicle Strangely Vibrate

Automobiles — whether they have internal combustion engines or electric motors — vibrate due to the mechanical forces at work when they run. However, due to imbalanced tread loss, your vehicle may produce more vibrations than usual. Timely tire rotation should prevent this issue.

You Struggle to Handle Your Vehicle

Is your car or truck less responsive than it should be? Your vehicle will find it difficult to grip the road like it used to when some tires are more worn than others. Rotate them correctly before this handling issue worsens.

How to Rotate Tires

Rotating tires sounds intimidating. However, it’s a walk in the park compared to replacing brake pads, which involves cleaning the rotor mounting surface, inspecting the piston, determining adequate caliper tightness, on top of removing and reattaching the wheels with a breaker bar. All you need to get started are a car jack, a lug wrench, a tire pressure gauge, gloves and basic knowledge of how to change tires.

You can rotate your tires in many ways. The most suitable rotation pattern for your vehicle depends on:

• Drivetrain type — FWD, RWD, AWD, 4WD or dual-rear-wheel (DRW)
• Tire symmetry — nondirectional or directional
• Tire size
• Spare tire availability

Learn how various patterns work and which one is best for your vehicle.

Forward Cross

This pattern applies to FWD vehicles with nondirectional tires of uniform size. You diagonally move the rear wheels up to the front axle’s opposite sides while you place the front wheels directly back.

Rearward Cross

This one suits RWD systems with same-sized nondirectional tires. It’s the opposite of the forward cross pattern. You diagonally move back the front wheels to the rear axle’s opposite sides while the rear tires advance directly to the front.

X-Pattern

If you want to know how to rotate tires on 4×4 and AWD vehicles, this pattern is your best bet. It involves moving all tires diagonally. Each wheel switches axles and winds up on the opposite side. This pattern makes sense only when your tires are nondirectional and of similar size, making them interchangeable.

Front-to-Rear

Curious how to rotate directional tires of uniform size? Make the front and rear wheels switch places while remaining on the same side. This rotation scheme doesn’t involve crossing because directional tire manufacturers optimize each unit’s tread pattern for either left or right for maximum performance.

Side-to-Side

When rotating differently sized directional tires, you should move each to the opposite side without changing axles. The front wheels should remain on the front, while the rear ones should stay on the back.

Five-Tire Rotation

If you have a full-size nondirectional spare street tire, you should include it in the rotation to ensure even treadwear. 

Position the newcomer on the right rear, designating the tire that would’ve gone to that spot as your new spare. In the forward cross pattern, your new spare tire would be the tire on the front axle’s side. When doing rearward cross or X-pattern, the tire on the left front would move to the spare position. 

This rotation philosophy is particularly critical in AWD and 4WD systems, where minor unevenness tread loss can do a number on the drivetrain. 

If you have a donut, exclude it from the rotation because it’s unidentical to the other three tires. This temporary tire belongs to the rear axle and is for short use only — a lifeline to get you to the tire shop when you notice a flat or have a blowout. You can’t use a donut permanently because it’s too small to support your vehicle’s weight, causing it to deflate quickly.

Six-Tire Rotation

If you have a dually truck — a DRW pickup whose rear axle has a pair of two tires on each side — do a modified front-to-rear rotation pattern. In DRW systems, the tires remain on the same side and rotate counterclockwise.

On your vehicle’s left side, move the inner rear wheel to the front axle. Reposition the front tire to the outer rear spot while the outer rear wheel shifts to the inside.

On the right side, transfer the outer rear tire to the front axle. The front wheel moves back and becomes the inner rear one. Lastly, the inner rear tire migrates to the outer spot.

Whatever rotation pattern your vehicle requires, remember to check tire pressure. To stay safe on the road, inflate all your tires as needed based on their manufacturer’s recommendation.

Tire Rotation Is a Must-Learn Skill

Knowing how to rotate tires properly even when you don’t have to makes you a much more responsible car owner and road user. Although it can seem overwhelming in practice, this guide will help you do it flawlessly.

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