Car owners must frequently check their trucks to ensure they’re in tip-top condition. One of these regular maintenance checklists is to change the transmission fluid. Learn how to drain the oil, replace the filter and refill the transmission pan with fresh lubricant. 

What Is the Basic Function of the Transmission?

Before you roll up your sleeves for some messy work, it’s essential to understand transmission since it’s tied to the meat of the topic. 

What Is the Transmission and How Does It Work?

Your car’s transmission is the gearbox, which directs the engine’s power to the wheels to move the vehicle. This system also slows the engine down and makes the wheels run at different speeds.

The transmission consists of gears, allowing you to control the power delivered to the car under various driving conditions. It can be either manual or automatic. 

The automatic transmission gives drivers more freedom behind the wheel since they don’t have to worry about switching gears. The catch is it consumes plenty of gas, making it less fuel-efficient. On the other hand, the manual type allows for more control of the automobile. For instance, you can slow down instead of braking. The caveat is you may need weeks of maneuvering practice before you feel comfortable taking the car off the road. 

Without this automatic or manual engine moderator, the car will overheat and spin out of control. 

Where Is the Transmission Located?  

There’s no permanent location for the transmission since its spot depends on the make and model. It can either be in the front, middle or rear. The gearbox is often attached to the engine. In front-wheel-drive cars, it’s usually mounted within the compartment directly connected to the engine. In rear wheel-drive vehicles, it’s attached to the end of the engine under a housing. 

Your car’s manual is a good reference for checking the exact location of the transmission system. 

How to Tell if Transmission Is Bad or Faulty 

The signs of wear and tear on this part are due to many factors. For example, issues with the fluid often result in damaged transmission. You should be wary and proactive in addressing these problems. Failure to repair or replace a malfunctioning gearbox can put your safety at risk. Here are some indications:

1. Burning Smell

 If you feel a nasty sting in your nose coming from the car  — like melting plastic — it could mean the gearbox is overheating or the fluid is burning. It’s risky because it can cause electric fire. If you don’t know how to troubleshoot a car, contact a mechanic for a vehicle health checkup.

2. Leaking Fluid

The transmission fluid is one of many oils in your car. It has a sweet scent and red color to distinguish it from other lubricants. Checking if your vehicle is leaking fluid is simple. Look for any signs of oil on the garage floor or driveway. Grease marks on the ground are an indication of damaged transmission. 

3. Trouble Switching Gears

The transmission has reached its limit if you need to put more effort in switching gears. Another hint is if the car slips between gears when driving. These malfunctions are hazardous and may increase your risk for accidents. Fix the problem immediately. 

4. Strange Noise When the Car Is Neutral

Your car’s transmission needs immediate inspection if you hear any whining, buzzing or humming sound when the clutch is in neutral.

5. Vibration or Shaking

Unsteadiness when switching automotive cogs is another warming sign of a failing part. Get a mechanic to check the transmission.  

A habitual inspection can help you identify problems right away. Learn how to do it yourself or visit a mechanic regularly for a car health assessment. 

How to Change Transmission Fluid by Yourself

Some gearbox issues are caused by its lubricant. Learn how to examine transmission fluid quality and replace it. 

What Is Transmission Fluid?

The car uses different oils to move the parts without being damaged by constant mechanical friction. The transmission fluid keeps automotive parts from rubbing against each other. It coats the components with grease to minimize the grinding of rough surfaces and ensure the engine runs steadily.

The transmission fluid also acts as a thermal exchanger, diverting heat away from the engine so it doesn’t seethe. An engine can combust at temperatures ranging from 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit to 4,500 degrees Fahrenheit. The gearbox oil serves as a coolant to prevent the components from deteriorating.

How to Check the Transmission Fluid

Many vehicles have a dipstick, which you can use to measure how much oil is left inside the gearbox pan. Some modern cars don’t have it, but if you do — follow these steps to check the oil volume. 

1. Open the hood and locate the dipstick. 
2. Once you find it, turn the engine on to warm the vehicle at an operating temperature. 
3. Put the gear in neutral or park with the brake on. 
4. Once the engine is sufficiently primed, pull out the dipstick. 
5. Check the color. It should be reddish. Here’s how to tell the fluid’s health based on color. 

• Bright red: The oil is new and in good condition — no need to take action. 
• Dark red: Schedule a fluid top-up in the future. 
• Brown: The oil has started to oxidate, so keep it in mind and load it up soon. 
• Black: The oil is severely contaminated. Replace the transmission fluid immediately.
• Pink or foamy: The transmission is damaged or the cooler is contaminated. Replace the cooler and flush the transmission fluid.   

6. After identifying its quality, touch the oil with your index finger and rub it against your thumb. If you feel any fine particles, the fluid is polluted and the filter is worn out. 
7. Wipe the dipstick clean with a lint-free fabric, then reinsert it into the tube. 
8. Pull it out again to confirm the reading. Every dipstick has a marker, indicating the proper oil level. Some have “hot” or “cold” labels, while others have L or H (low or high) and Min and Max (abbreviations for minimum and maximum.) 

If you can’t find the dipstick or your car doesn’t have one, refer to the owner’s or car service manuals. Other models have inspection plugs that require special procedures when checking or replenishing the transmission fluid. 

Results of the Oil Check

The transmission fluid inspection has three probable outcomes.

• You only need to fill up if the oil is low, looks reddish and smells OK. 
• You should drain and replace the oil if it looks dark and smells burnt.  
• You should change both the fluid and filter if it’s black and mixed with debris,    

Transmission Fluid Refill

The process to replenish a low-level gearbox oil is straightforward. Follow these steps. 

1. Remove the dipstick from the tube. 
2. Insert the long funnel. 
3. Once the funnel is secure, begin adding fluid slowly. Add a small amount at a time, ensuring not to overfill. 
4. Recheck the reading with the dipstick.
5. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you get the right fluid volume. 

Transmission Fluid Change

The first step is learning how to drain transmission fluid. Emptying the pan can be messy, but other than this, the process is beginner-friendly. You can hire a mechanic to do the dirty work or do it yourself and save labor money. Begin by following these instructions. 

How to Drain the Transmission Fluid

You must first clear the pan with the contaminated fluid. 

Things you need:

• Gloves
• Goggles
• Jack stands
• Collection pan
• Ratchet
• Rags or paper towels

If you’re ready, here are things you must do. 

1. Get the vehicle in the air and use jack stands or ramps as supports to maintain their elevation.
2. Wear your gloves and goggles for protection.
3. Once ready, slide the collection container and get under the car to locate the transmission pan.  
4. Examine it. Some models have removable plugs in the center, which you can rotate in reverse to start draining. Others have bolts around them that you need to loosen up before you can pull the pans free. Determine how to extract the used fluid.
5. When you’ve done that, place the collection receptacle below the pan.
6. Slowly remove the plug or unscrew the drain bolts using a ratchet one at a time for a controlled spill.

Get a bigger collection pan to minimize the mess on your driveway or parking area. Alternatively, you can place a large tarp under it that will prevent floor spills. Use the rags to wipe any overflows on the floor. 

How to Change the Transmission Filter

Can you change the transmission fluid without replacing the filter? Yes. You can leave it if the oil quality is good. However, a good practice is to detach the filter to check for cracks or holes that can cause leakage. If it does have even a tiny slit, swap it with a new part.

Things you need:

• Ratchet
• New transmission filter

Make sure to get an identical replacement filter. Ask an auto mechanic for advice if you don’t know what type to get. After pulling out the transmission pan, follow these steps. 

1. Use a ratchet to remove the bolt securing the filter to the car. 
2. Get the new filter and lubricate the O-rings with some grease before pushing them into the tube. 
3. Once done, attach the new filter. Line the fittings into the holes and push them in before tightening the bolt. Make sure it’s not too tight to avoid damaging the part.

After swapping the filter, the next step is to reattach the transmission pan. Before doing so, wipe it clean with a degreaser and a paper towel or clean rag. Use a ratchet to put all the bolts back. You can begin replenishing the fluid afterward.

How to Add Transmission Fluid

This process is similar to how you refill the transmission fluid.

1. Remove the dipstick.
2. Insert the long funnel.
3. Pour in the brand-new transmission oil.
4. Reinsert the dipstick and check if it’s at the right level. Generally, you need about 4-6 quarts to fill the transmission pan. However, it also depends on the make and model. Check the owner’s manual for this information.  
5. Once done, reinsert the dipstick and lock the tube.

This concludes the steps for changing the transmission fluid. You can give the car a test drive to check the gear-shifting functions. 

How Often Should You Change the Transmission Fluid?

The owner’s manual typically recommends changing the transmission fluid between 30,000 and 100,000 miles, but regular inspection will ideally tell you when it’s time for a replacement. You may need to fill up the oil regularly if you’re constantly towing in hot weather. Frequent inspection and maintenance is crucial. If you detect foul smells and warning signs before your vehicle reaches 30,000 miles, resupply the oil. 

What Happens if You Don’t Change the Transmission Fluid?

Like engine oil, transmission fluid wears out and loses its lubricating and cleaning properties. It can cause excess friction and deteriorate the internal clutches when shifting gears. It can also lead to overheating issues. Degraded lubricant loses its ability to regulate combustion heat, damaging the bearings, gears and moving parts. 

How Much Does Changing the Transmission Fluid Cost?

The average cost of changing the transmission fluid is around $150 to $200, whereas a new filter often ranges from $100 to $250. Therefore, a transmission fluid and filter change can cost between $250 to $450. You can save a few bucks if you buy the parts and do the maintenance yourself.

How Much Does it Cost to Rebuild a Transmission?

If you still experience gear issues after restocking the fluid, the problem might be with the transmission. Schedule an inspection with a mechanic to pinpoint the underlying issue. 

On average, a transmission repair can cost between $1,800 and $3,400, depending on the damage to the parts. The labor typically starts from $500 to $1,200. 

If repair is impossible, a new transmission will cost $1,800 to $3,500.

Change Your Transmission Fluid Manually at Home

Owning a car involves several maintenance obligations that can quickly burn a hole in your pocket. Learning to do simple regular checks and repairs — like changing transmission fluid — can minimize associated expenses. Fortunately, you don’t have to be an automotive expert to learn a trick or two about vehicle maintenance. Follow the above steps to change transmission fluid in the most economical way. 

The post How to Change Your Transmission Fluid appeared first on Modded.

When you think about things that could go wrong with your car, you probably think about your engine, tires or frame. However, one little device could mean big problems for your vehicle — the camshaft position sensor. Is it safe to drive with a bad camshaft sensor? Here’s what you need to know.

What Is a Camshaft Sensor?

A camshaft position sensor is a device that monitors your engine’s inlet and exhaust valves. It sends the information to your car’s main computer — the electric control unit (ECU). The ECU collects data from various sensors across the vehicle to ensure the internal combustion engine gets adequate air, fuel and spark at the right time to work as intended and run efficiently.

Although it’s just one of many eyes the ECU relies on to keep tabs on your vehicle’s performance, the cam sensor plays a more vital role than others. It ensures the camshaft’s position is optimal to support proper intake, compression, combustion and exhaust. One discrepancy can deprive intake and exhaust gases enough room to move freely.

As its name suggests, the camshaft position sensor only keeps an eye on the camshaft, which is at the top of an engine. This sensor reads how well your engine’s cylinders move to synchronize how your engine’s electric coils and fuel injectors activate.

However, the cam sensor is clueless about what’s going on with the bottom half. It works with the crankshaft position sensor to paint the whole picture for the ECU.

The crankshaft controls the movement of pistons. The position of pistons and valves must align to allow air and fuel to flow through correctly.

You can usually find a camshaft sensor in the valve cover at the top of your car’s engine. Sometimes, manufacturers will place it on a cylinder head. Depending on an engine’s complexity, there may be more than one.

Camshaft sensors are hardy. Their circuitry can operate in hostile environments and resist electromagnetic interference or power spokes. Most are magnetic and can generate an alternate current for the electronic control module. Some models do need a separate power source.

What Happens When a Camshaft Sensor Goes Bad?

Your vehicle’s cam sensor can fail due to normal wear and tear. If you get into an accident, the impact can damage this component. Regardless of the nature of its failure, it spells disaster. The ECU will receive low-quality information if it can’t collect and transmit accurate data, defeating the purpose of car engine monitoring for optimum performance.

When this happens, the vehicle can burn more fuel than necessary or less than needed. You may experience a rough engine idle from rest. Your engine may stall and turn your vehicle into a road hazard. You may not be able to start your car at all.

Symptoms of a Bad Camshaft Sensor

Diagnosing a camshaft position sensor failure can be challenging. It manifests itself in various car problems, which also suggest other issues. The most common symptoms include the following.

Illuminated Check Engine Light

A broken camshaft position sensor is one of the reasons this dashboard light comes alive. The other causes for concern include:

• Damaged alternator
• Defective ignition coils
• Dwindling fluid levels
• Dying battery
• Faulty wires
• Inoperative spark plugs
• Malfunctioning mass airflow sensor
• Missing catalytic converter
• Unsound exhaust pipe
• Vacuum leak
• Worn-out timing belt

The list goes on and on. Your car’s internal combustion engine has hundreds of parts, so it could be anything. Hooking a specialized computer into the onboard diagnostics-II port below the steering wheel near the door may aid your search.

Declining Fuel Efficiency

Aren’t you getting the same mileage out of your vehicle as before? Your camshaft position sensor may be shot. Clogged fuel injectors, an old air filter, a dirty oxygen sensor, unsuitable engine oil, deflated tires and misaligned wheels can also explain it.

Dirtier Emissions

Your automobile can’t burn fuel efficiently with a failing cam sensor. Expect the same result when you delay an oil change, there’s excessive fuel in the air/fuel mixture or your gas cap is loose.

Unburned Fuel Smell

If your camshaft sensor has seen better days, it can interfere with combustion. Your engine can’t burn all fuel, causing the unused amount to find its way out of the tailpipe and make its presence known by giving off a distinct gas odor.

Moreover, you can catch a whiff of gas fumes when your vehicle’s evaporative emissions system or fuel lines are leaky.

Transmission Shifting Woes

If your car enters limp mode to reduce the maximum speed it can go, its ECU may have detected something wrong with the cam position sensor, integrity of electrical wires or adequacy of transmission fluid level.

Engine Misfires

Camshaft sensors can have a hand in incorrect internal combustion reactions, and so can fuel mismatches, spark plugs, timing belts and vacuum lines.

Acceleration Hesitation

A compromised cam sensor is one of the reasons your engine may hesitate when stepping on the gas pedal, rendering your vehicle virtually impossible to drive. Other possibilities include issues with fuel delivery, the ignition system, circuits, vacuums and control modules.

While these symptoms could indicate other problems, a combination of these is common with a bad camshaft sensor.

Is It Safe to Drive With a Bad Camshaft Sensor?

The short answer is “no.” Though it might seem small and insignificant, your camshaft sensor sends vital information to the rest of your system, ensuring you can safely control your vehicle. You’ll put yourself and anyone else who drives your car at risk if you don’t remedy the issue as soon as possible.

Though everything could still be normal, you don’t want to take the chance.

How Long Can You Drive With a Bad Camshaft Sensor?

You could continue to drive with a bad cam sensor for as long as the engine doesn’t die. However, staying on the road without replacing your faulty component is ill-advised. The camshaft position sensor serves a critical function. Overlooking its significance endangers you, your fellow car occupants and the other motorists you cross paths with.

How Long Does It Take to Replace a Camshaft Sensor?

The good news is that changing your camshaft sensor is easy, and many car owners choose to do it themselves. Consult your car’s maintenance handbook to find out the camshaft position sensor’s location under the hood and how to detach and reattach it as your vehicle’s manufacturer recommends.

These sensors are available at various price points at automotive stores or online marketplaces. Purchase a new model to ensure the replacement will properly function. 

While vehicles are different, adding a new camshaft sensor is generally straightforward. Once you disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the sensor, you’ll need to replace the O-ring seal and install the new sensor.

Avoid Driving With a Bad Camshaft Sensor

Your camshaft sensor is critical in ensuring your car operates safely and efficiently. If you suspect you have a bad camshaft sensor, it’s best to address it immediately so your vehicle remains safe to drive and knows if there is a potential problem. 

With a little research, replacing your camshaft sensor is fairly easy. Consult with an experienced mechanic if you have any questions about whether you properly replaced it.

Looking to learn more? Check out our complete car maintenance checklist and work your way toward becoming an expert home mechanic.

Originally posted 11/16/2023 – Updated 8/9/2024

The post Is It Safe to Drive with a Bad Camshaft Sensor? appeared first on Modded.

Few things put a damper on a lovely Sunday drive in the countryside like a warning ding and a new visual alert signifying car trouble. What do the dashboard lights mean? Is the situation dangerous? What should you do about it, and do you have time to stop at the store before pulling into the mechanic’s shop? 

Although they may seem intimidating at first, your car dashboard symbols and meanings are no more difficult to understand than your smartphone icons. All it takes is the inside scoop on what they mean. Follow this guide to fix that malfunction with minimum fuss and expense while saving yourself stress. 

What Lights Should You See When You Start Your Car? 

If you’re the mindful sort, you might have observed that all of your lights come on when you first start your vehicle. Others don’t even notice, and that’s perfectly okay. This momentary flick of the lights indicates that your car has performed a self-test to ensure all systems are a go. It’s when a warning light remains lit or begins flashing during transit that you need to worry. 

To diagnose what dashboard lights mean, you must first understand that warning lights come in various colors. Red is the most severe, indicating a problem that warrants immediate attention. 

Yellow lights often refer to specific road conditions that require extra caution, such as your traction control switching on in the rain. White, light blue or green lights signify no trouble at all. They simply let you know that you have employed a certain feature, such as your headlights. 

Do Electric Cars Have the Same Dashboard Lights? 

Dashboard lights are necessarily different in an electric vehicle. For one, there’s no need for a gas gauge unless you’re driving a hybrid. However, manufacturers fill that space with stats on energy consumption, battery charge and anticipated range to ensure you don’t accidentally strand yourself without juice. 

However, some lights remain similar. For example, you’ll still receive various system warnings, such as low tire pressure. You might even get a little bonus in the form of eco-friendly alerts that applaud you for environmentally sound driving behaviors. 

How to Master Your Specific Dashboard 

Your car comes with an owner’s manual regardless of whether it is a traditional gas engine, EV or hybrid. Most folks toss it in their glove box and forget it. Do better — take it out and study that puppy. Better yet, take the time to review it with the sales associate before you buy. They can advise you on what the various symbols mean and what actions to take when they appear. 

A Car’s Driver Is It’s Most Important Safety Feature 

According to a recent study by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, a staggering 94% of automobile accidents result from human error. Although mechanical problems contribute, especially among those with limited income to maintain their vehicles, it pales in comparison to distracted driving or driving while sleepy, enraged or under the influence of drugs or alcohol. 

What does this mean for you when your dashboard lights come on? Your first order of business is to remain calm. Panic promotes irrational and impulsive behaviors that increase your accident chances. If a dashboard light appears, take a deep breath, observe the traffic around you and move to the shoulder or another location where it’s safe to pull over and park. 

Know yourself. If you lack mechanical savvy and have little desire to learn, invest in roadside assistance through your insurance carrier or opt for a third-party service like AAA. However, you might be able to troubleshoot what that dashboard light means by referring to this guide. 

13 Dashboard Lights and What They Mean 

Here’s what to do when you see one of these symbols appear on your dashboard. 

1. Check Engine Light 

This little guy may inspire more panic than any other, but it can often result from little more than failing to twist your gas cap all the way after filling up. Other check engine light meanings include: 

• Faulty catalytic converter
• Faulty mass air flow sensor 
• Aging spark plugs
• Faulty oxygen sensor
• Faulty ignition coil 
• Overheating 
• Vacuum leak 
• Oil pressure 
• Ignition system trouble 

It’s quite an extensive list. To pinpoint the precise problem, you’ll need a special computer that hooks to your car’s OBD-II port. You might know where this port is if you use an insurance carrier that rewards you for good driving — it’s typically located below the steering wheel near the driver’s side door. Your mechanic will have one, as do auto parts stores such as O’Reilly and AutoZone. You can purchase one for personal use or borrow theirs to troubleshoot and buy the parts you need for repair. 

2. Oil Light 

Your oil light is a serious signal that should inspire you to take rapid action if you value the life of your motor vehicle. Lack of lubrication causes friction that can seize up your engine, necessitating expensive repairs. It appears when oil pressure gets too low, or the existing oil becomes too broken down and contaminated to function properly. 

Please avoid driving when your oil light comes on. Your quick fix is to add more oil, which is why keeping some in your trunk at all times is a wise idea. Step two is to get your vehicle to the shop for an oil change. 

You can also change your oil at home, and while going to a shop is quicker and easier, it’s worth doing it yourself once or twice to get to know your car. The most dangerous aspect is properly elevating the vehicle to let you climb under it safely. Thin people with lifted rides might skip the jack, but otherwise, ensure you engage the parking brake and use chocks to keep the vehicle stationary while you work. 

When changing your oil at home, ensure you take proper steps to dispose of the used motor oil. While it’s illegal to dump it down the drain or into the wild, bringing it to an approved recycling facility lets manufacturers refine it for new use. Some mechanics shops offer oil recycling, albeit usually to regular customers, but you can also check with your local waste disposal service for disposal alternatives. 

3. Transmission Light 

Your transmission system warning light looks like a gear with an exclamation mark in the center. It may contain the words “at oil temp.” It indicates that your transmission fluid is overheating, which can happen when you have low fluids, high mileage and worn components. Those who have made this mistake when hauling an RV know it can also result from towing a too heavy load. 

When this light appears, pull over as soon as it is safe to do so. You should wait an hour or more before working on overheated engine components. Check your fluid levels, which may correct the problem. However, if damaged parts create the issue, you may have no choice but to repair or rebuild the transmission. It can cost a pretty penny and typically requires more specialized equipment than hobbyist DIYers keep in their home garages. 

4. Indicator Light 

This dashboard light looks super scary, but it’s surprisingly not a sign of immediate danger. However, it does increase your risk of an accident or receiving a ticket if pulled over. Your indicator light signifies that you have a light out somewhere, which can spell trouble if it’s a headlight or taillight that needs attention. 

The solution to this dashboard light is to locate the dead bulb and replace it. Plugging a computer into your car’s OBD-II port facilitates troubleshooting. 

5. Car With Squiggly Lines Light 

You might think that the car with squiggly lines dashboard light signifies a winding road ahead, which may or may not be true. What’s certain is that your car’s stability control system detects wheel slippage, problems or malfunctions. 

In general, the only action you need to take when this dashboard light appears is to slow down and drive more carefully, given wet or slick conditions. However, if it frequently lights up, and you live in Phoenix, AZ, not Seattle, WA, you should consult your mechanic. It may indicate a problem with your car’s traction system or an electrical issue causing the light to malfunction. 

6. Exclamation Point on Dash 

Any time an exclamation point appears within or next to another dashboard light, it indicates a fault in the system. For example, your tires should hold between 32 and 35 psi to perform at their best. An exclamation point inside two curved brackets with a rough bottom indicates that your tire pressure is low and you risk a flat. 

An exclamation point next to a steering wheel indicates a fault with your power steering system. Although you may technically be able to drive your vehicle, turning it transforms from a simple act to one requiring Herculean strength. Your ability to maneuver quickly avoids accidents, so get to the shop for repairs without delay. You may need to call for a tow, depending on how far you must travel. 

7. Part Time Light 

Once upon a time, switching to 4-wheel drive meant physically exiting your vehicle and locking your tires. Now, you can do so from inside your ride, but engaging temporary 4-wheel drive may cause a “part time” light to appear on your dash. It doesn’t mean your vehicle is in need of parts — it’s simply a reminder that you should switch back to 2-wheel drive before getting on the highway to avoid damaging your transmission. 

8. Fog Light 

Here’s a light that shouldn’t evoke any alarm when it appears on your dashboard. While your fog lights can drain your battery if left on when you turn off your car, the worst that can happen is you’ll later turn the key, and nothing will happen — which is bad if you’re running late for an appointment but not inherently dangerous. This dashboard light is simply a reminder to flick that switch before exiting your ride lest you strand your future self. 

9. Coolant Level Light 

If a drowning thermometer lights up on your dashboard, however, it’s time to take serious action. This light indicates that you are getting low on coolant, which puts you at risk of overheating. Your best course of action is to pull over, wait a sufficient time for the engine to cool and add more antifreeze. Water will do in an emergency but may contain impurities that damage your engine. 

Additionally, you should flush and replace your coolant every 30,000 miles or so or per your manufacturer’s instructions. As with changing your oil, it’s generally easier and just as cost-effective to take it to the shop — but getting your DIY groove on a time or two familiarizes you with your vehicle and gives you a sense of confidence in regards to auto mechanics. Go for it. 

10. ABS Sensor Light 

Your brakes are another area of your car you shouldn’t play with, so get to the shop if this light comes on. ABS stands for antilock braking system, which enhances your control on slick surfaces and replaces the old-fashioned need to pump your brakes when going into a skid. 

What’s dangerous about this dashboard light is that some people ignore it if their brakes otherwise work fine. However, many things can cause the system to malfunction, and getting to a shop is the only way to ensure that you can stop your vehicle quickly when necessary to avoid accidents. 

11. Airbag Warning Light 

If a light depicting a seated person with a circle above it appears, it indicates that there is a problem with the supplemental restraint system. Although it isn’t illegal to drive without airbags — they only came into popular use 50 years ago — doing so increases your risk of serious injury in an accident. 

Please note that your airbag warning light may not appear on your dashboard. For example, some models of 4WD vehicles intended for off-road use, like Jeeps, have them near the gear shift box, enabling drivers to manually disengage them when traversing bumpy roads to avoid accidental deployment. 

12. Battery Light 

Your battery light means something slightly different if you drive an electric vehicle. Such models often have various indicators to tell you how much charge remains and how far you can go before you need to plug in. However, on standard gas-powered vehicles, this icon indicates an issue with your battery or charging system. 

While it’s rare to lose power in transit as your engine keeps things moving, you could find yourself in need of a jump if you fail to address the issue. Often, a new battery is all you need, but worn cables, corrosion around the terminals or alternator issues could also prompt this light to appear. 

13. Low Fuel Light 

Here’s a dashboard light that nearly everyone recognizes. You probably also know what to do — get thee to the nearest gas station and fuel up. 

Special Note on Clearing Dashboard Lights 

Here’s another reason to invest in a computer for your OBD-II ports if you prefer to DIY rather than take your car to the shop. In general, dashboard lights disappear once you address the underlying cause that made them appear in the first place. However, it isn’t always automatic. Some models require you to clear the issue via this port manually — the check engine light is a notorious example. 

Clearing the issue should extinguish any remaining unwanted dashboard lights. However, pay attention if they reappear and seek help from a professional mechanic who specializes in your model to determine what further repairs you need. 

What Your Dashboard Lights Mean 

Seeing a new alert on your car isn’t fun. However, it’s cause for alarm, not panic. Understanding what your dashboard lights mean gives you peace of mind on the road. 

Print out this copy of car dashboard symbols and meanings to keep in your glove box. Let it be your handy guide to what to do when a strange, new dashboard light appears. 

Icons courtesy of Vecteezy.com

The post What Do Your Dashboard Lights Mean?  appeared first on Modded.

Regular maintenance, such as checking oil levels or changing your engine coolant, not only helps your vehicle last longer and perform better, but it also provides peace of mind when you’re on the road. You know, for the most part, your car will not break down. Consistent maintenance also helps prevent major issues that could ruin your trip(s), like overheating, head gasket leaks, and much more.

Some may not know that the coolant system needs maintenance, including filling the fluids, sometimes changing, and flushing to remove contaminants that have built up inside. It is called a radiator flush. Moreover, the coolant levels need to be checked, not unlike oil, to make sure there are no serious leaks. So, knowing how to change your engine coolant, check coolant levels, and flush the system are critical skills. This informative guide is going to walk you through all of that. Let’s get started.

What Does Engine Coolant Do?

But first, a primer on engine coolant and the radiator. Exactly what does coolant do?

Engine coolant is a liquid added to the coolant system. It cycles through the radiator to prevent engine damage from freezing or boiling temperatures. Because the engine produces lots of heat while running, the liquid effectively transfers it away, keeping everything from overheating.

In cold climates, it’s designed not to freeze inside the engine while also protecting its components. That’s why it’s important to use the right type of coolant for your vehicle, but also the right type of coolant for the season and local conditions. Coolant will typically come in one of three types: Inorganic Additive Technology (IAT), Organic Acid Technology (OAT) and Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT). In most cases, a quick search online will tell you which is needed for your make and model.

While today’s advanced vehicles can sometimes go decades or longer without needing a coolant change, that’s not always the case. It’s still essential to check coolant levels to ensure there are no leaks and ensure you have the proper coolant in your vehicle. It’s also great to know how to change your engine coolant or check the levels in case of a problem.

Changing the fuel, oil, and air filters, rotating the tires, changing brake pads, monitoring the radiator and checking coolant levels are some of the most critical car maintenance items to consider.

Why Checking Your Coolant Matters

Your car’s cooling system is integral to normal operation, and the radiator and engine coolant play a big part. Combustion engines create energy by burning fuel, with combustion temperatures ranging from 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit to 4,500 degrees Fahrenheit. Engine coolant helps keep those temperatures regulated. 

Your vehicle may overheat without enough coolant to transfer some of the heat away from the engine. Worse yet, that can eventually damage some of the engine’s components, leading to significant malfunctions later. There are a few reasons your car’s engine might overheat, but one of the more common causes is low coolant or a lack thereof.

A leak is also a problem, as eventually, enough coolant will not be left in the system. However, it can also be a source of contamination, dirtying the coolant fluid or making it less effective over time. Common signs of a leak include fluid puddles under your car, low coolant levels observed, an overheating engine, and a sweet smell around your vehicle. The only way to recognize these problems — before they create a massive headache — is to regularly check your coolant levels to ensure there’s enough in the system. While doing this, you can also check the coolant fluid’s color, which will give you some indication of your coolant system and radiator’s health.

How to Check Coolant Levels

From here on out, you’ll need a dedicated workspace, which means you might need to create one. The garage or driveway is a great choice, but you’ll need plenty of room and a safe, open area where nothing can get in your way. The good news is that once you have a spot, you can also use it for oil changes and other DIY car maintenance tasks.

Safety Tip: Don’t check your coolant levels while the engine is on, and if the car has been driven recently, let it cool off before you pop the hood.

1. Open the hood of your vehicle and identify the coolant reservoir. It’s a dedicated tank for checking coolant levels and refilling. Usually, it’s made of clear or white plastic.
2. Carefully remove the cap from the reservoir and ensure it’s full of coolant. Coolant fluid comes in various colors, such as blue, red, green, or even yellow. Don’t be alarmed by the color itself.
3. Inspect the fluid for discoloration. If you notice small particles, rusty residue, oils or sludge, it’s a sign that there may be a leak somewhere. If the coolant is colorless, that’s also a problem, and you’ll want to have your vehicle inspected by a mechanic.
4. It’s okay if the coolant needs to be topped up a little. However, if fluid levels are extremely low, you have a leak. That needs to be repaired before you take any extended road trips. Optionally, you can also use a device called a “Coolant Tester” to assess the quality of the coolant in your system.

How to Put Coolant in Cars

Provided there are no major leaks, you can simply fill your vehicle’s coolant reservoir. While some older cars do not have a reservoir, it’s not common enough to be a problem.

It’s important to note that you cannot put pure, undiluted coolant fluid into the system. You must make a mixture of 50/50 concentrated coolant and distilled water or buy a diluted coolant solution from an auto store. Most modern forms of coolant come ready to use and are already mixed.

It is also important not to mix different types of coolant by putting more than one type in your vehicle’s system. If you change coolant fluid types, you must first flush out the system — which is precisely why we’re explaining how to flush coolant in this guide.

How to Change Engine Coolant

It depends on who you talk to, but most auto manufacturers recommend changing the coolant every 30,000 miles or so. Others, like Chevrolet, recommend flushing and changing at 150,000 miles.

You’ll first need to flush out the system to change the type of coolant fluid in your vehicle, such as going from a high-temperature solution to one meant for cold climates. The only exception is if you’re adding more of the same fluid.

1. If the vehicle was recently used, turn off the engine and allow it time to cool down. When it’s ready, open the hood.
2. Jack up the car and make sure it’s secure — so it won’t roll or fall.
3. Locate the radiator and look for the radiator drain or petcock. It’s usually positioned on the low part of the radiator and held in place with a single screw.
4. Position a large drain pan or bucket below the area and allow it to drain.

If your vehicle does not have a radiator drain, you’ll simply need to loosen and open a connected hose like the auxiliary coolant pump line. It will likely be messy and may take longer to drain.

With the old coolant drained, now’s a great time to flush out the system and clean it.

How to Flush Coolant Systems the Right Way

There are cleaning chemicals and mixtures you can purportedly use to flush out the coolant system, but your best choice will always be distilled water since that’s what you mix coolant with anyway.

If you opened a line or the radiator drain in the previous step, close everything back up before moving on with the flush. 

1. Fill the system with distilled water and nothing else by pouring it into the reservoir. 
2. Wait a minute or two, then start the car and let it run for a few minutes. That will allow the engine to heat up, open the thermostat, and cycle the distilled water through the system.
3. Turn off the engine and let the car cool down.
4. Once the engine is cool, you can drain the distilled water like you drained the coolant in the previous step. Open the radiator drain or use a hose if there isn’t a drain.

Pay attention to the water that drains out of the system. At first, it might have some color, but if it’s persistent throughout, you may need to do another flush. You’re good to go if you see clear water coming out. You can repeat the coolant flushing process as often as needed.

What Does It Mean to Bleed a Coolant System?

Bleeding or “burping” a system is necessary to remove air bubbles from a liquid or oil-based solution. For example, you may also need to bleed the brake lines when you change or adjust brake pads. Air bubbles in the coolant line can reduce efficiency, causing more overheating or component damage and may even result in catalyzed engine wear.

After flushing the coolant system, you should also make a habit of bleeding it.

How to Bleed Coolant Systems: Remove Air from the Lines

1. With the car still jacked up, remove the radiator cap on top of the radiator. If there’s an overflow tank, remove the cap from that tank instead.
2. OPTIONAL: If you have a newer vehicle, locate the bleeding valve on the radiator. This is optional because not all cars have one. It looks like a small screw protruding out. Open the valve before adding coolant by loosening it. You may hear air escape before coolant leaks out.
3. Using a funnel that fits perfectly inside the cap hole — you may need an adapter to create a tight seal — slowly pour coolant into the system. You want to add about two to three liters per minute, enough to cycle the coolant and create a flow but steady enough so you’re not adding more air bubbles.
4. Pour until the coolant level reaches the ‘full’ mark on the inside of the tank, if using the overflow tank, or until it brims at the top of the radiator. Leave the funnel and seal in place. If you’re using the bleeding valve method when you see pure coolant leaking out and no air, you can close the valve.
5. Clear the engine, turn on the car and crank the AC to full heat. This will open up the heater core, and you can rev the engine a little to speed up the process.
6. As the engine heats, bubbles may appear or “burp” out of the funnel. You want this, and the process is bleeding out the air.
7. The coolant may rise or fall. This is okay. However, if the coolant in the reservoir drops below the “full” mark, add more and continue bleeding.
8. Turn off the engine and let it cool down. The coolant level may drop as it cools. You can top up with more, but be careful not to overfill.
9. Remove the funnel and close up the tank(s) or system when finished.

That’s it! You’ve bled the air bubbles out of your radiator and coolant system.

How to Change Engine Coolant: Refilling the System

If you followed the steps to flush out your system and bleed the air bubbles, your coolant should have already been replaced. If not, the best way to refill and refresh coolant is to simply pour it slowly into the main reservoir or tank.

Remember, you must use the same coolant, and you should never mix different types together and add them to the system. Just the standard 50/50 mixture with distilled water and concentrated coolant will do.

Take It for a Drive!

Now that you’ve learned how to change your engine coolant and done the maintenance, it’s time to enjoy the fruits of your labor. Start up the car and take it for a nice drive. As a reward for your hard-earned time, get yourself a cold beverage or some ice cream.

Remember, just like the oil, windshield washer fluid, and other fluids in your vehicle, you should check the coolant levels from time to time. This is to help spot a leak early before it causes damage and ensure there’s enough coolant in the system to keep it running optimally. You can also quickly check for residues, sludge, and other contaminants that might have made it into the coolant from a leak.

Regularly scheduled maintenance is the way to go, helping you catch potential problems before they become a major hindrance. This is especially important if it’s your primary vehicle, as you want to keep it running for years to come.

Not sure that coolant is really your issue? At Modded, we’ve got you covered. Check out our list of common car engine problems (and how to solve them) or go beyond the engine with our list of DIY car repairs anyone can take on.

The post How to Change Your Engine Coolant appeared first on Modded.

Brake pads are small, but vital pieces of your vehicle. With the rotor, caliper assembly and a little help from some brake fluid, they’re responsible for bringing your car to a stop, and keeping the roads safe. If you need to replace them, you should know how to change brake pads the right way.

How Much Does it Cost to Change Brake Pads?

The cost will vary depending on whether you decide to change the brakes yourself or hire a professional, but the final expense should fall within the following price ranges.

• Parts and tools cost between $35 and $150.
• Labor costs between $80 and $120 per axle.
• Total cost: between $115 and $300

If you opt for a DIY project, you only need to acquire the right parts. Keep in mind that auto manufacturers price their parts differently, so your car’s parts might be more expensive than other vehicles. If you want to hire a professional, their hourly rates have a wide range and will have the most impact on the bottom line. Make sure you research at least a few body shops in your area to get the best deal.

How to Change Brake Pads by Yourself

Changing brake pads by yourself isn’t necessarily easy, but the process is straightforward enough compared to other mechanical fixes. First, make sure you have enough space to complete the project. A flat driveway or one-car garage should suffice. Then, you have to purchase the right parts and tools. Here’s what you’ll need:

• Brake pads, rotors, fluid and cleaner
• Disc brake pad spreader set
• Floor jack, jack stand
• Torque wrench, other essential tools
• Eye protection, gloves

Once you have everything you need, park your car and clear out the surrounding area to have more floor space. You’re ready to get started!

1. Inspect the Brakes

First, you should perform a close inspection of your current brake pads. They usually wear out at around the 50,000-mile mark, but that number dramatically varies. Consult your owner’s manual for the correct estimate and look for the telltale signs. Worn-down brakes tend to make squeaking and grinding noises when the car slows down and a slight bounce when the car comes to a stop. 

You should also check your brake fluid level. If the reservoir has too much fluid, it can move around and spill onto other parts while you work on the car. Remove a little bit of fluid if necessary.

2. Loosen the Lug Nuts

Loosen the lug nuts on your wheels with a breaker bar and socket so they’re easier to take off when you lift the vehicle into place. The disc brake pad spreader set should include these tools. Some lug nuts may be more challenging to remove than others, so it’s best to put your weight on the wrench for extra leverage. 

3. Lift the Car into Position

Put the floor jack into place and slowly lift the car. Place the jack stands in spots that support the vehicle’s weight, then slowly lower the car again until it rests comfortably on the stands. With the car in place, you’re ready to begin removing parts.

4. Remove the Lug Nuts, Wheels and Caliper Bolts

Take out the lug nuts that you loosened earlier, then remove the wheel. Now you should see the caliper bolts. If they’re not visible, turn the steering wheel slightly until you can see them. Use the torque wrench to unscrew them. Removing the caliper bolts will allow you to take apart the other important parts of the caliper assembly.

5. Remove the Old Brake Pads and Rotor

Remove the old pads and inspect them for uneven or excessive wear. Those patterns usually mean that the brake pads lack enough lubrication, which can significantly decrease the pads’ lifespan. From there, remove the brake caliper, brake caliper bracket and rotor in that order. These parts should come off if you unscrew the caliper bolts correctly. A rusty rotor might stick, so get help from a rust penetrant or a hammer if necessary.

6. Prepare the Rotor Mounting Surface, New Rotor and Brake Pads

With all of the parts removed, you can prepare to install the new brake pads. Start by cleaning the rotor mounting surface with a wire brush, steel wool or another thick substance to remove rust. Use the brake cleaner to wipe off the rotor and new brake pads (they might be new, but you should still clean them before attaching them). Your new pads should come with their own clips, but if they didn’t,  clean off your old clips as well. 

7. Attach the New Rotor and Pads

Attach the rotor, then apply brake lubricant at the clip contact points. After using the lubricant, install the brake pads in the same position as you found the old pads. It’s helpful to take photos during this process so you can reference them later on.

8. Inspect the Brake Caliper and Piston

Check the brake caliper and piston for any fluid leaks. If everything looks dry and clean, use the disc brake pad spreader to secure the caliper piston. Once the piston is secure, you’re ready to reinstall the brake caliper.

9. Adjust the Caliper Assembly

Put the brake caliper back into place. Tighten it only as much as you need to. If a caliper is too tight, it restricts the braking process and can quickly damage the brake pads. Use a torque wrench to get adequate tightness.

10. Make Sure the Brake Fluid is Working

Look at the brake fluid reservoir for any spillage or overflow. If you have a sufficient amount, pump your car’s brakes lightly to make sure the fluid has reached the brakes and is doing its job.

11. Reattach the Wheel and Lower the Vehicle

Put the wheel back into place and secure it with the lug nuts. Use the jack to raise the vehicle off the stands, remove the stands and promptly lower the car back down to the ground. If you got this far, you’ve successfully changed a brake pad on your vehicle!

12. Bed the Brakes

To be 100% sure that your DIY project worked, take the car out for an easygoing test drive. Accelerate to a decent highway speed, then slow down to about half the speed and stay in cruise control for a few minutes. Repeat this process several times so you successfully “bed the brakes” and prepare them for full-time use. 

How to Change Brake Fluid

1. Ensure You Have the Correct Tools

Make sure you have the tools needed to successfully change your vehicle’s brake fluid.

• Brake fluid (make sure to use the type specified in your vehicle’s manual)
• Wrench or brake bleeder wrench
• Clear plastic tubing
• Brake bleeder kit
• Jack and jack stands or a vehicle lift
• Wheel chocks
• Turkey baster or similar tool
• Container for old brake fluid
• Safety glasses and gloves

2. Preparation

Park your vehicle on a flat surface. Use the wheel chocks to prevent the car from moving or rolling backwards. Look at the car manual to ensure you use the correct brake fluid.

3. Raise the Vehicle

Use a jack lift to lift the car and place it securely on jack stands. Ensure the vehicle is stable before you begin working underneath it.

4. Locate the Master Cylinder

Open the hood and locate the brake master cylinder reservoir. You can typically find this near the back of the engine bay, toward the driver’s side.

5. Remove Old Fluid

Using a turkey baster or similar tool, remove as much old brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder reservoir. Be careful not to spill brake fluid, as it can damage paint and other surfaces. 

6. Refill With New Brake Fluid

Refill the cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid to the recommended level.

7. Bleed the Brakes

Starting with the brake furthest from the cylinder — usually the right back — locate the brake bleeder valve on the brake caliper or wheel cylinder. Attach a clear plastic tube on the bleeder valve, with the other end submerged in a container partially filled with brake fluid to prevent air from entering the system. 

Have someone help you pump the brake pedal several times, then hold it down. Loosen the bleeder valve slightly to allow fluid and air to escape. Once the fluid runs clear without bubbles, tighten the valve and instruct someone to release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until only clear fluid comes out of the bleeder valve. 

8. Repeat for All Wheels

Follow the specific bleeding sequence in your vehicle’s manual. Refill the master cylinder with new fluid as needed to prevent it from running dry.

9. Check for Leaks

Once you’ve bled all the brakes, check the bleeder valves and master cylinder for any leaks. Tighten them as necessary.

10. Lower the Vehicle

Carefully lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the jack.

11. Do Final Checks

Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir once last time, and top it off if necessary. Pump the brake pedal to ensure it feels firm. If it feels spongy, there may still be air in the system, and you’ll need to bleed the brakes again.

How Long Do Brake Pads Last?

Your brake pads should last around 50,000 miles, but it all depends on the make and model of your vehicle. Aggressive driving with harsh braking and carrying heavy loads can significantly reduce brake pad life, sometimes as low as 15,000 miles. On the other hand, gentle driving can extend it to 70,000 miles or more. Organic pads wear out faster, generally lasting 20,000 to 40,000 miles, while semi-metallic and ceramic pads are much more durable, often lasting 30,000 to 70,000 miles. 

When to Replace Brake Pads

Signs that brake pads need replacement include squealing or screeching noises, grinding sounds, reduced braking performance, a brake warning light and visual inspection showing pad thickness below ¼ inch. If you notice that the car is vibrating more than usual, it may actually suggest that you’re due for a tire rotation instead.

Inspect your brake pads regularly, avoid aggressive braking and maintaining the braking system can help extend the life of your brake pads and ensure vehicle safety. 

How Often to Replace Brake Rotors

You generally need to replace rotors every 50,000 to 80,000 miles, though this can vary based on driving habits, vehicle type and rotor quality. Aggressive driving, frequent hard braking and driving in hilly or mountainous areas can accelerate wear, requiring more frequent replacements. Additionally, driving in conditions that expose rotors to a lot of dirt and debris — such as off-road driving — can also shorten their life span. 

Signs that you need to replace your rotors include vibrations or pulsations in the brake pedal, scoring or grooves on the rotor surface and a noticeable reduction in braking performance. You can identify worn or damaged rotors by regularly inspecting them and doing routine maintenance. Maintaining the entire braking system can extend the life of your rotors. 

How to Replace Brake Rotors

To replace your brake rotors, you’ll need the following:

• Jack and jack stands
• Lug wrench
• Socket set and ratchet 
• C-clamp or brake caliper tool
• Brake cleaner
• New brake rotors
• Torque wrench

1. Prepare Your Car

Park the car on an even surface. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels slightly before jacking up the car. Use a jack to lift the vehicle and secure it on jack stands. 

2. Remove the Wheel and Brake Caliper

Fully remove the lug nuts and the wheel. Locate the brake caliper and remove the bolts holding it in place using a socket wrench. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor and suspend it using a piece of wire or a bungee cord. Don’t let it hang by the brake hose. 

3. Remove the Caliper Bracket and Old Rotor

Remove the bolts securing the caliper bracket to the knuckle. Slide the old rotor off the wheel hub. If it’s stuck, tap it gently with a rubber mallet. 

4. Install the New Rotor

Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove any protective coating. Place the new rotor onto the wheel hub.

5. Reassemble the Brakes

Reattach the caliper bracket and torque the bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications. Compress the brake caliper piston using a C-clamp or brake caliper tool. Reinstall the brake caliper over the new rotor and secure it with bolts.

6. Reinstall the Wheel

Put the wheel back on, hand-tighten the lug nuts, then lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications. 

7. Test the Brakes

Press the brake pedal a few times to ensure the caliper piston is correctly seated. Test drive the vehicle at low speeds to ensure everything is working correctly. While it’s not always necessary, it’s best to change brake pads and rotors at the same time. Both parts work together to optimize braking performance.

Know Your Vehicle

Every car owner should be well-versed in mechanical terms and practices because you never know when you’ll have to fix something yourself. Professional body shops are valuable resources for major fixes, but you should know the basics of how to swap brake pads and make other small changes to your vehicle. If you think you’re up to the challenge, follow this step-by-step guide to changing brake pads so you can get back on the road!

Originally published 2/21/2022 — Updated 6/10/2024

The post How to Change the Brake Pads on Your Car appeared first on Modded.

Tire rotation is vital to keeping your vehicle roadworthy. It’s not car maintenance 101, though. Wondering how to rotate tires rarely crosses the average motorist’s mind since service technicians generally handle this task. Many car owners are unaware of it being a thing, while others are disinterested in it because it needs some elbow grease.

However, doing it is one thing. Knowing how to when needed is another. A proper understanding of tire rotation is a badge of honor for gearheads.

For non-auto enthusiasts, this skill can make you more self-sufficient, boost your confidence as a car owner, and save you trips to the mechanic — not to mention cash — on many occasions.

Are you ready to get your hands dirty? Let’s get started!

What Does It Mean to Rotate Tires?

Rotating your tires means periodically changing each of your tires’ positions on your vehicle. If you’ve owned your automobile long enough, the service crew has likely rotated its tires for you during past scheduled maintenance sessions.

There’s a science behind tire rotation, so you can’t just remove all wheels and assign them to random axles. Incorrect orientation does more harm than good, so ensure you know which one goes where before jacking up your vehicle and picking up your lug wrench.

Why Do You Rotate Tires?

Changing your vehicle’s tire positions regularly is crucial to ensure even treadwear. Front tires generally wear the fastest, regardless of the drivetrain. These tires bear the brunt of acceleration, steering and braking.

In front-wheel drive (FWD) vehicles, the engine transmits power to the front wheels, which are responsible for steering and traction, causing their rubber to wear more quickly. Rear-wheel drive (RWD), all-wheel drive (AWD) and four-wheel drive (4WD) systems distribute power more evenly to all wheels, resulting in more balanced wear across front and rear tires.

Regardless of your vehicle’s drivetrain, tire rotation is necessary for various reasons.

Tire and Suspension Longevity

Not rotating your tires as frequently as you should will lead to unequal tread loss, especially when combined with aggressive driving maneuvers. Tires don’t last forever but should age at the same rate. Otherwise, you’d have to retire them ahead of what their treadwear grade suggests.

Replacing a worn-out tire is more expensive than you think. If the problem tire is too damaged relative to the others, you may have to buy at least one set, doubling your expense. You may often have to replace all four to eliminate any imbalance.

Also, there’s no wiggle room regarding tire options. Unless you’re replacing them all, you must stick with the remaining set’s brand, model and specifications. Any mismatch can negatively affect your drivetrain’s integrity and your vehicle’s drivability.

Uneven tread loss can produce unusual vibrations that can damage your suspension system prematurely. The faster you go, the more intense the vibration.

Safety

2022 saw 562 people die from tire-related accidents, so skipping tire rotation is a serious road safety issue. Wear unevenness increases friction by forcing your tires to move at various speeds. More friction translates to more heat. High temperatures accelerate treadwear, starting a vicious cycle.

Hydroplaning — when your vehicle slides on the road uncontrollably — is another cause for concern. Treads produce traction, allowing you to properly steer your vehicle when the rubber meets the road.

Losing substantial tread depth due to significant wear diminishes your tires’ grip on surfaces, especially during inclement weather. It can cause your vehicle to go where it shouldn’t inadvertently. Tires optimized for gripping into snow and ice may spin out of control under slippery conditions with irregular treads.

You’re more likely to encounter blowouts when you seldom rotate your tires. A super worn-out tire develops a thin spot after experiencing extreme strain. The thinner this soft underbelly becomes, the more prone it is to being punctured upon contact with any sharp object.

Bringing a spare tire and knowing the best practices when dealing with a blowout on a highway — such as demobilizing your vehicle, making yourself prominently visible to other motorists and inflating a doughnut tire to at least 60 pounds per square inch — helps. Still, the terror of hearing a loud noise out of nowhere can cause you to lose your grip amid high-speed traffic.

Comfort

Smooth rides owe themselves to evenly worn tires. If you commute often and are familiar with how your vehicle normally feels on the road, you may sense something strange when treadwear unevenness becomes undeniable. This experience can cause physical and mental discomfort, distracting you from driving properly.

Fuel Efficiency

Rotating your tires is a surefire way to get more miles per gallon, boost your vehicle’s fuel economy and reduce your regular auto expenses. Your vehicle’s engine detects insufficient traction and compensates by using more gas or diesel to help you stay in control.

Warranty Adherence

Regular rotation is one of the requirements to keep your tire warranty valid. Falling short of this expectation voids this written guarantee, absolving your tires’ manufacturer of any responsibility to address any legitimate product defects.

Auto Insurance Premium Stagnation

Disproportionate treadwear can indirectly inflate your car insurance rate. Your driving record is a significant factor dictating whether your premium will go up or down. It reflects your car maintenance commitment as well as your ticket and accident histories.

Preserving a spotless driving record is challenging without uneven tire wear, which, by default, renders your vehicle less roadworthy. Even skilled motorheads are prone to crashes when behind the wheel of a less drivable sedan, hatchback or light-duty truck.

If you file a claim after getting into a vehicular accident due to a highly worn-out tire, you’ll give your insurance carrier to jack up your premium — a double whammy.

When to Rotate Tires

The average rotation interval is 6,000-8,000 miles, but some tire makers may deviate from this typical range. To precisely know how often to rotate tires, check your tire manufacturer’s recommendation — or requirement when you still have an active warranty.

Furthermore, you may have to rotate ahead of schedule for various reasons.

You Can’t Remember the Last Time

Driving infrequently may seem to slow tire deterioration, but it isn’t necessarily the case. Hitting the road with underinflated tires erodes tread mileage, slashing a considerable portion of your tires’ expected service life.

Spending less time on the road may lull you into a false sense of security that your tires’ treads are still deep enough for ample traction. When you can’t recall your vehicle’s last rotation session because it takes you forever to hit the mileage threshold, it may be a sign you need to pay more attention to tire maintenance.

Look for evidence of unequal tread loss. If one of your tires seems to be losing more rubber than the others, rotate and inflate them accordingly. You can skip replacement when the tread depth in your front tires’ major grooves is 4/32 inch or deeper while that of your rear ones is 2/32 inch.

You Can See Lincoln’s Head

If you do the Penny Test and note that Abraham Lincoln’s head is inconsistently visible, it’s a sign of uneven tread wear. You may have to hit the panic button when Abe’s head is peeking, for it indicates the tread loss is significant enough to reduce your vehicle’s ability to grip the road in challenging weather conditions.

You Notice Odd Wear Patches

Some cases of tire wear are too obvious to ignore. When a tire’s grooves appear shallower than those of the other tires, you should rotate it sooner rather than later.

You Feel Your Vehicle Strangely Vibrate

Automobiles — whether they have internal combustion engines or electric motors — vibrate due to the mechanical forces at work when they run. However, due to imbalanced tread loss, your vehicle may produce more vibrations than usual. Timely tire rotation should prevent this issue.

You Struggle to Handle Your Vehicle

Is your car or truck less responsive than it should be? Your vehicle will find it difficult to grip the road like it used to when some tires are more worn than others. Rotate them correctly before this handling issue worsens.

How to Rotate Tires

Rotating tires sounds intimidating. However, it’s a walk in the park compared to replacing brake pads, which involves cleaning the rotor mounting surface, inspecting the piston, determining adequate caliper tightness, on top of removing and reattaching the wheels with a breaker bar. All you need to get started are a car jack, a lug wrench, a tire pressure gauge, gloves and basic knowledge of how to change tires.

You can rotate your tires in many ways. The most suitable rotation pattern for your vehicle depends on:

• Drivetrain type — FWD, RWD, AWD, 4WD or dual-rear-wheel (DRW)
• Tire symmetry — nondirectional or directional
• Tire size
• Spare tire availability

Learn how various patterns work and which one is best for your vehicle.

Forward Cross

This pattern applies to FWD vehicles with nondirectional tires of uniform size. You diagonally move the rear wheels up to the front axle’s opposite sides while you place the front wheels directly back.

Rearward Cross

This one suits RWD systems with same-sized nondirectional tires. It’s the opposite of the forward cross pattern. You diagonally move back the front wheels to the rear axle’s opposite sides while the rear tires advance directly to the front.

X-Pattern

If you want to know how to rotate tires on 4×4 and AWD vehicles, this pattern is your best bet. It involves moving all tires diagonally. Each wheel switches axles and winds up on the opposite side. This pattern makes sense only when your tires are nondirectional and of similar size, making them interchangeable.

Front-to-Rear

Curious how to rotate directional tires of uniform size? Make the front and rear wheels switch places while remaining on the same side. This rotation scheme doesn’t involve crossing because directional tire manufacturers optimize each unit’s tread pattern for either left or right for maximum performance.

Side-to-Side

When rotating differently sized directional tires, you should move each to the opposite side without changing axles. The front wheels should remain on the front, while the rear ones should stay on the back.

Five-Tire Rotation

If you have a full-size nondirectional spare street tire, you should include it in the rotation to ensure even treadwear. 

Position the newcomer on the right rear, designating the tire that would’ve gone to that spot as your new spare. In the forward cross pattern, your new spare tire would be the tire on the front axle’s side. When doing rearward cross or X-pattern, the tire on the left front would move to the spare position. 

This rotation philosophy is particularly critical in AWD and 4WD systems, where minor unevenness tread loss can do a number on the drivetrain. 

If you have a donut, exclude it from the rotation because it’s unidentical to the other three tires. This temporary tire belongs to the rear axle and is for short use only — a lifeline to get you to the tire shop when you notice a flat or have a blowout. You can’t use a donut permanently because it’s too small to support your vehicle’s weight, causing it to deflate quickly.

Six-Tire Rotation

If you have a dually truck — a DRW pickup whose rear axle has a pair of two tires on each side — do a modified front-to-rear rotation pattern. In DRW systems, the tires remain on the same side and rotate counterclockwise.

On your vehicle’s left side, move the inner rear wheel to the front axle. Reposition the front tire to the outer rear spot while the outer rear wheel shifts to the inside.

On the right side, transfer the outer rear tire to the front axle. The front wheel moves back and becomes the inner rear one. Lastly, the inner rear tire migrates to the outer spot.

Whatever rotation pattern your vehicle requires, remember to check tire pressure. To stay safe on the road, inflate all your tires as needed based on their manufacturer’s recommendation.

Tire Rotation Is a Must-Learn Skill

Knowing how to rotate tires properly even when you don’t have to makes you a much more responsible car owner and road user. Although it can seem overwhelming in practice, this guide will help you do it flawlessly.

The post How to Rotate Your Tires appeared first on Modded.

Sedans, trucks and SUVs are integral to our daily lives. While vehicles create convenient transportation, you shouldn’t take them for granted. They need maintenance to ensure they’re safe and easy to drive anywhere you need. 

So, how can you care for your car? You need a car maintenance checklist. Here’s your comprehensive guide to vehicle upkeep. 

Car Maintenance Checklist for Your Engine

The engine is the heart of your vehicle and deserves plenty of attention. Here are the tasks you need to keep your motor running smoothly. 

Changing an Engine Air Filter

A clean engine is integral to your car’s health and starts with the air filter. This device ensures the air reaching your engine doesn’t contain particulate matter like dirt and debris. A good air filter provides maximum fuel economy and saves money in the long run. Do you drive an older vehicle? A clogged filter can increase fuel usage by 10% in cars made before 1999. So, how does the air filter fit into your car maintenance schedule?

Experts say you should change the filter every 30,000 miles, but it depends on your driving habits. For instance, driving on dirt and dusty roads will clog your filter more quickly and may require a change sooner than the 30,000-mile mark. This crucial engine component could also suffer if you constantly drive in heavy traffic during the summer or find mice in the housing. Pests can ruin the air filter any time of year. 

Changing Spark Plugs

When you turn the keys in your car, a lot goes on during combustion. The spark plugs are critical during this stage because they harness the air and fuel in the cylinders and generate fuel for the engine. Like the other engine components, spark plugs are vulnerable to wear and tear under the hood. Constantly hot temperatures and electric pulses make them less efficient and need replacement. 

How often should you replace spark plugs? Your owner’s manual will provide the best direction, but it can be anywhere from 18,000 to 100,000 miles, depending on the material. Standard spark plugs contain nickel, but the best contain iridium and platinum. The stronger metals get you closer to the 100,000-mile mark due to their durability. Better spark plugs are critical for car inspections because they demonstrate good engine health. 

Replacing the Timing Belt

Belts are essential for your nice outfits and your engine’s performance. Timing belts are critical to your motor because they ensure the crankshaft and camshaft rotate simultaneously. A properly working belt works with the pistons to help your engine’s valves open and inhale air. Your timing belt is a relatively durable part and will last a long time  — between 30,000 and 120,000 miles — so check your owner’s manual for the most accurate information. 

While timing belts last long, you shouldn’t take them for granted. A worn part could cause ticking or screeching sounds from your engine, so seek service immediately if this problem arises. Another sign that your timing belt needs replacement is having difficulty starting the engine. Misfires, cranking failures or even smoke can occur from a timing belt, so keeping up with this part is essential. 

Changing the Serpentine Belt

Another engine belt you should pay attention to is the serpentine belt. This part differs from the timing belt because it connects to numerous engine components. The serpentine belt assists the water pump, power steering, alternator and air conditioner compressor. Without a serpentine belt, you wouldn’t have a functioning engine, so it deserves your attention. If you need to change one, don’t waste time. 

Serpentine belt changes could come for various reasons. Normal wear and tear means the belt could crack, peel or begin slipping. Your owner’s manual will give you the best advice on serpentine belt replacement because the recommended interval varies by the engine. Changing this part can be difficult if you don’t have a ton of hands-on experience, so a trip to the mechanic may be in order. However, it is possible to DIY if you have the right tools. 

Radiator

Keeping your body cool is essential during hot summer days, and your car cares for itself through the radiator. This part uses water and antifreeze to keep your engine at average operating temperatures year-round. Without a proper cooling system, your vehicle risks overheating and engine failure. If you see race cars emit water from their hood, it’s likely due to radiator issues.

Radiators can be expensive, so they don’t need replacement at regular intervals. Your most pressing maintenance task for this part is flushing. Depending on your owner’s manual, you’ll need to remove and replace the old coolant at regular intervals. You should also check your radiator for cosmetic damage, such as cracks and leaks. Corrosion can be a pesky problem if moisture compromises the metal. 

Changing a Fuel Filter

Gas companies clean their fuel to ensure it’s ready for the pump. However, contaminants may still be inside the gasoline before entering your vehicle. The fuel filter is your best friend for removing debris and caring for your car. 

This part protects your fuel injection systems and your vehicle’s performance by maintaining power and preventing engine stalling. Check your owner’s manual to see how often you should replace this crucial part. Changing a fuel filter can be a DIY task on your car maintenance schedule.

Car Maintenance Checklist for Your Suspension

While the engine deserves a spotlight, your suspension deserves just as much attention. Here’s how you should approach your car maintenance schedule for this system. 

Tires 

You can’t move your car without tires. These hefty pieces of rubber help your vehicle stick to the ground and make off-roading easier. Tire pressure is one of the most important tasks, and you should monitor your tires visually and with sensors. Experts recommend keeping your tires between 32 and 35 pounds per square inch (psi) for optimal performance. 

Watch your tires before hitting the road to ensure they aren’t flat from the start. If the psi seems low, check it with a gauge or a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). This device can fit on your dashboard and tell you each tire’s psi so you know when a problem has occurred. If you don’t keep up with air pressure, you could have a flat tire on your road trip and unwanted stops. Don’t let your crew be stranded on the road waiting for a tow truck.

Changing a Tire

Changing a tire doesn’t typically show up on your car maintenance schedule. Calling for roadside assistance may be beneficial if you want a professional to get the job done correctly. However, this option might not always be available. If you do the job, you need the right tire-changing tools to get back on the road. Here are some of the things you need:

• Spare tire
• Car jack
• Lug wrench
• Wheel wedges
• Tire pressure gauge

Replacing a tire seems complicated, but it’s easier than you think. You can do it yourself without too much issue as long as you follow the right steps.

Rotating Tires

How can you preserve your tires and help them last longer? You need to rotate them once in a while. Your four tires could have the same installation but wear differently on each side. For example, your front tires face more strain because they help you turn left and right. Acceleration also causes your wheels to work hard in the front as you gain speed. 

If you don’t rotate your tires, they’ll be more vulnerable to wear. The last thing you need is uneven wear that makes your car unbalanced and dangerous to drive. Put tire rotation on your car maintenance schedule every 5,000 to 8,000 miles, regardless of whether your vehicle has a front or rear-wheel drive. 

Changing Brake Pads

Brake pads are necessary because they press against the rotor and slow your vehicle. Don’t take them for granted, considering they wear as much as other parts. Brakes generate heat when you use them, making the pad slowly wear each time you hit the pedal. If you don’t change the brake pads, you’ll compromise the braking performance and have less friction available when stopping the car. 

Fortunately, you don’t need to change the brake pads often. Each set wears after about 50,000 miles, but your owner’s manual will give you a more accurate estimate. While you can take your car to the mechanic, you can change your brake pads at home. This task requires personal protective equipment (PPE), wrenches, jack stands, new brake pads, rotors, brake fluid and a disc brake pad spreader set.

Replacing Shocks and Struts

Imagine off-roading in your Ford F-150 on uneven terrain. Your truck will bounce as you traverse big rocks, mud and other obstacles, so what protects your vehicle from falling apart? The shocks and struts are integral to your suspension by absorbing the impact of each movement. Unsurprisingly, these parts will wear over time and require replacement. Vehicles need shock replacement every 50,000 miles, so it’s not a constant task on your car maintenance schedule. 

If you drive your shocks past the recommended maintenance date, you risk uncomfortable rides in your sedan, truck or SUV. Bumps will feel bumpier, and your vehicle’s bouncing can harm your suspension. Replacement at 50,000 miles is a good rule of thumb, but it might not always apply. Ask a mechanic to inspect your shocks and struts to determine when they need service. Off-roading excursions could mean sooner changes, so keep an eye on your parts.  

Car Maintenance Checklist for Your Fluids

Cars need fluids just like you need water throughout the day. What do you need to feed your vehicle to fulfill your car maintenance checklist? Here are the six necessary fluids for your car. 

Changing Oil

Oil changes happen early and often with your car throughout its lifetime. Your engine needs this fluid to lubricate its moving parts and reduce friction, thus increasing efficiency. The oil accumulates dirt and debris over time, so you must change it occasionally. 

Older oil will break down and lose its efficacy if you don’t use it. Newer vehicles let you drive 7,500 to 10,000 miles before an oil change, but check your owner’s manual to see the best option. While some shops can give you a quick oil change, you can do this task at home and save time and money. 

Changing Coolant

How does your engine temperature stay regulated throughout the drive? You can thank the coolant in your engine. This fluid contains water and antifreeze, ensuring the oil doesn’t get too hot or cold. Coolant stays effective in your engine for a few years, so it’s not a frequent task for your car maintenance checklist. Auto experts say once every 30,000 miles should suffice for your coolant’s health. 

While critical for temperature control, coolant is also effective in keeping your engine clean. The liquid removes contaminants from your engine, maintaining efficiency with every drive. Accumulating dirt and debris means the coolant needs occasional replacement. You risk increased engine stress and overheating if you don’t change the coolant. Rust is another concern because coolant protects metal components. 

Brake Fluid

Brake fluid is crucial because you use it every time you hit the pedal. This liquid converts force into pressure and rapidly slows down fast vehicles. Without it, stopping would be much more difficult or nearly impossible. Brake fluid requires replacement every 30,000 miles unless your owner’s manual says otherwise. If you don’t change it, you risk sub-optimal brake performance and decreased safety. 

Changing your brake fluid is a relatively simple process. Locate the brake master cylinder and remove the cap to drain the old fluid. Then, top off the cylinder with the new brake fluid and bleed the brakes. The process requires an hour or two because you must drain fluid from all the wheel calipers. You risk sub-optimal brake performance and decreased safety if you don’t change it. 

Transmission Fluid

Do you prefer automatic or manual transmission? Regardless, you need transmission fluid for smooth sailing on the highway. This integral part lets you shift gears quickly and keeps each one cool to prevent overheating. Like the other liquids, transmission fluid sees wear and tear due to high temperatures. It picks up contaminants from the road, so you need to change it. Where should this service be included on your car maintenance checklist? 

Your owner’s manual will say to change the transmission fluid between 30,000 and 100,000 miles, but a closer inspection will be more telling. Checking the transmission fluid will show you if it needs replacement. Darker colors and foul smells are warning signs you should drain the fluid and replace it with a new set. You should also be wary if your gears start slipping or see increased friction. 

Changing Power Steering Fluid

Moving thousands of pounds of metal with your bare hands is an easier task with power steering fluid. This key component is similar to brake fluid because it’s hydraulic. Your power steering fluid connects your steering system to the front wheels, thus making left and right turns easier. You might not find a specific interval for changing the power steering fluid, as some manufacturers don’t offer recommendations for their vehicles.

So, how often should you change your power steering fluid? Certified technicians should inspect the component to ensure no leaks or discoloration in the fluid. If you want to change it at home, remove the reservoir cap. Empty the old fluid and remove any dirt or contaminants. Refill the reservoir with the new power steering fluid and crank the engine to let the fluid move around. 

Filling Windshield Wiper Fluid

Windshield wiper fluid may seem the least pressing task on your car maintenance checklist, but you shouldn’t take it for granted. You might enjoy the rain when fishing, but the precipitation won’t be as fun when your windshield wipers are making loud noises. Each pair needs lubricant to remove rain, dirt and other debris effectively. Otherwise, the wipers might leave streaks or smear the contaminants all over. 

Visibility is crucial when driving a car, so windshield wiper fluid should be on your car maintenance schedule. The frequency of your changes depends on where you live. An area with heavy precipitation will use more windshield wiper fluid because of the constant rain. A good rule of thumb is to align your windshield wiper fluid service with your oil changes. Alternatively, you can take matters into your own hands by topping off the fluid once monthly. 

Other Important Tasks You Shouldn’t Forget

Your engine, suspension and fluids are high on the car maintenance checklist and schedule. However, these seven parts need just as much attention. 

Changing a Car Battery

While most vehicles run on gas, they need a battery for support. The battery rests under the hood and plays its most prominent role when cranking the engine and powering the GPS, radio and lights. A dead battery is the last thing you need if you’re in a time crunch, so maintenance for this part is necessary. 

Ask a technician to inspect it whenever you bring it to a mechanic’s shop. They’ll tell you what issues are most pertinent to your battery. Changing the battery is another fun DIY project you can allocate time for. If you don’t feel comfortable handling this service, don’t hesitate to ask for a professional’s help.

Changing a Cabin Air Filter

Car cabins are compact areas, so there’s not much room for air. Outside contaminants like pollen, dust and dirt can harm the air quality, so your cabin air filter works hard to protect you and your passengers. You need this part to operate smoothly and provide clean air regardless of the time of year. The service frequency depends on your owner’s manual, but you can count on replacement once or twice yearly. 

Your cabin air filter is critical for driving comfort, so there are a few warning signs your system isn’t up to par. For instance, your car’s interior could feel stuffy and uncomfortable even with the air conditioning on. Dirty air filters can’t circulate air well, so you’re more susceptible to allergies if pollen and dust enter. Your vehicle could also have foul smells because it can’t funnel them out, so avoid eating in your car if the air filter has issues. 

Recharging Your Car Air Conditioner

Hot weather means cranking up the air conditioner. Otherwise, your car becomes a sauna on the way to work. Save the steam room for the spa and recharge your car’s air conditioner. This task should be on your car maintenance schedule before the summer heat overtakes your area. 

The last thing you want is a suboptimal air conditioner when the sun makes you sweat. Year-round hot climates may need service more frequently. Recharging your car’s air conditioner can be a DIY task if you consider yourself handy. 

Changing a Headlight

Headlights are a relatively simple component of your car’s electrical system. However, you’ll miss it dearly if it starts malfunctioning. Driving with broken headlights or taillights is dangerous at night and when bad weather arrives. 

You also risk getting pulled over and a ticket from law enforcement, so take matters into your hands by changing the light. Be proactive and change when the bulbs are dim or flickering. Thankfully, changing your headlights is a manageable DIY task that saves you a mechanic trip. 

Changing Windshield Wipers

Don’t let windshield wipers make your commute unsafe during bad weather. These gadgets wear over time because you may have a bent blade or damaged rubber. If you ignore your windshield wipers, they can become less effective over time. 

Worst-case scenarios may lead to a damaged windshield because they scratch the glass. The last thing you need is reduced visibility from an easy fix. Windshield wipers need replacement every six to 12 months, depending on your driving area and frequency. 

Fixing a Car Scratch

Paint scratches can come from anywhere, but they’re not something you look forward to. Who wants to see their brand-new ride with dings and damage everywhere? Luckily, you can care for paint scratches with a few tactics. First, you should wash the car regardless of how big it is. Washing will reset your car and provide a nice, clean surface. Wash the undercarriage while you’re at it to wash out the dirt and dust. 

You may only need a polishing compound to fix the damage if you have a tiny scratch. This approach includes elbow grease and sandpaper to dull the finish and hide the scratch. If you have a deeper scratch, you may need professional service. If you want a DIY fix, use a sander on your vehicle’s paint job until you reach the metal panel. While it seems counterproductive, this strategy removes the scratch and provides a new look. 

Waxing a Car

Some people wax their cars for aesthetics. However, this weekend project has practical benefits for protecting your vehicle. Imagine your car’s paint job is the Mona Lisa and wax coating is the security guard protecting the precious portrait. Wax has a unique role, especially if you live in a coastal area. Living near the beach means the air has more salt and humidity, leaving your vehicle vulnerable to the weather. Wax protects your car from rust and deterioration. 

How often should you wax your vehicle? The frequency depends on your area and its weather. You may get away with semi-annual waxing if you live in a temperate climate. Hot and humid weather could increase this maintenance task to three or four times a year, so check your car for rust. Some drivers wait until the weather changes each season because this adjustment could affect their car’s reaction. 

What do the Dashboard Lights Mean?

Dashboard lights are inconvenient when they appear. What does each signal mean? The lights depend on your make and model, but these 10 are common among cars. 

• All-Wheel Drive: This light means your all-wheel drive (AWD) has malfunctioned and cannot track your speed and traction. While it could be a sensor issue, you should seek service immediately. 
• Anti-Lock Brake System: The electronic component of your brake system has malfunctioned. While you can still brake, you should see a mechanic soon. Check your brake fluid level.  
• Battery Warning: This warning means your vehicle has an electrical problem, such as a worn battery or a faulty charging system. If you have an electric car, preserve your battery by not charging it to 100% or letting it die. 
• Check Engine: A check engine light could mean a minor issue like a loose wire. A significant problem could mean a transmission or catalytic converter issue. Regardless, take your car to a mechanic as soon as you can. 
• Engine Temperature: This warning light means your coolant temperature has gotten too high, thus overheating your engine. Turn off the engine for a half-hour to cool this fluid before hitting the road. 
• Oil Pressure Warning: Your vehicle has either minimal or no oil left in the engine. A leak may have occurred, so check your oil and oil filter. 
• Powertrain Fault: Something has malfunctioned within your powertrain or transaxle, prompting maintenance. See a mechanic immediately because this problem is severe.
• Stability Control: The stability control helps your vehicle maintain traction. If the light comes on, the system may have malfunctioned. 
• Tire Pressure Indicator: You may have an underinflated or flat tire, so check your four wheels as soon as possible. 
• Transmission Temperature: Your transmission is overheating and could become severely damaged. Find a service station immediately. 

Exhausting Your Car Maintenance Checklist

Many depend on automobiles to work and perform other daily duties. While fun to drive and look at, even the best hot rods need mechanical attention. Use this comprehensive car maintenance checklist to form a schedule and extend your vehicle’s longevity.

The post Complete Car Maintenance Checklist 2024 appeared first on Modded.

Fuel efficiency is a determining factor for most would-be car owners — and for good reason. You’ll save money at the pump and stay on the road longer without stopping to fill up. Plus, automobiles with outstanding miles per gallon (mpg) are better for the environment. Of course, a hybrid or fully electric vehicle is your best fuel-saving option. But if you’re not ready to make the leap, these are the best cars for gas mileage. 

Mitsubishi Mirage G4 — 39 mpg

At first glance, the Mitsubishi Mirage G4 is just your regular compact vehicle, but underneath that lightweight design lies an impressive fuel management system. Boasting an EPA-approved 39 mpg rating, the car has the best gas mileage, making it a reliable choice for city commutes and long highway journeys alike. Despite its compact size, the Mirage doesn’t compromise on interior space, offering a surprisingly roomy cabin and adequate cargo capacity for its class.

Hyundai Elantra — 37 mpg

With its sleek design and fuel-sipping capabilities, the Hyundai Elantra earns its spot among the best cars for gas mileage. The 2022 version is rated a combined 37 mpg on the city and highway, which equates to around 2.7 gallons for every 100 miles.  It packs a 2.0-liter four-cylinder engine with a CVT aspirated inline-four producing 147 hp. Overall, the Elantra delivers a comfortable ride, user-friendly technology and a generous array of standard safety features.

Honda Civic 4Dr — 36 mpg

At an EPA-estimated gas mileage of 2.8 gallons per 100 miles, the Honda Civic 4Dr is a perennial favorite among drivers seeking both reliability and fuel efficiency. The polished, sporty look is a classic head-turner thanks to its advanced aerodynamics and efficient engine. Renowned for its smooth ride, spacious interior and advanced tech features, the Civic combines practicality with sophistication. Whether navigating urban streets or cruising down the highway, this iconic sedan delivers performance and fuel economy.

Kia Forte FE — 35 mpg 

The Kia Forte replaced the Kia Spectra across most automobile markets. It’s not necessarily the most exciting vehicle in its segment, but it stands out with its impressive fuel efficiency and mpg rating of 35. The Kia Forte certainly fits the bill if you want a reasonably priced car that combines sleek styling with a refined driving experience. 

Nissan Versa — 35 mpg

With a 1.6-liter 4-cylinder engine, the Nissan Versa isn’t the fastest sedan on the market. However, it makes up for it with an EPA-rated fuel efficiency of 2.9 gallons per 100 miles and a combined mpg of 35. Additionally, it comes with an affordable price tag. The 2022 version has a manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) between $15,580 and $18,990. It also offers ample interior space and a user-friendly infotainment system.

Volkswagen Jetta — 35 mpg

The Volkswagen Jetta is your classic sturdy, reliable sedan. Equipped with a 1.5-liter, turbocharged engine and sleek design, it provides performance and fuel efficiency. It’s one of the best cars for gas mileage, with a rated city and highway mpg of 35. Known for its European-inspired driving dynamics, the Volkswagen Jetta comes with an 8-speed automatic transmission. The 6-speed manual transmission version can be a great selection if you prefer more hands-on driving. 

Toyota Corolla — 33 mpg

The Toyota Corolla and its hatchback variant are among the best-selling cars worldwide. It has been a solid car for decades and continues to impress with its stellar fuel economy. The EPA-estimated 33 mpg rating for the 2022 version equates to 3 gallons per 100 miles. Known for its legendary reliability, the Corolla combines fuel efficiency with a comfortable ride and intuitive technology features. Its bigger cousin, the Toyota Venza, has a 39 mpg rating, making it one of the best SUVs for gas mileage in 2024.

Acura Integra — 33 mpg 

The 2024 Acura Integra is modeled after the current Honda Civic, though you’ll quickly notice Acura’s more sharply styled and luxurious aesthetic. Renowned for its agile handling, the Acura Integra stands out as a sporty yet efficient option in the compact car segment, achieving an mpg rating of 33. It’s powered by a 1.5-liter turbocharged four-cylinder VTEC® engine and is available in both manual and automatic speed transmissions. 

Nissan Sentra — 33 mpg

The Nissan Sentra proves that fuel-efficient cars don’t have to look elementary. It earns its place among the top contenders for best gas mileage, achieving an impressive 33 mpg rating. When fuel prices surge, the Sentra’s small fuel tank can make filling up less expensive. It also comes with loads of standard safety features wrapped in a simple, elegant design. Ultimately, the Sentra can be a great choice when you need an affordable car that delivers both comfort and economy. 

What to Consider When Choosing a Fuel-Efficient Car

Several factors come into play when selecting a vehicle with the best gas mileage. 

Vehicle Size 

Consider the size and type of vehicle that best suits your lifestyle. Generally, the larger the car, the more gas it guzzles. That means you usually get better fuel savings from compact sedans and hatchbacks than SUVs and trucks. However, advancements in technology have made many crossover SUVs and even some larger vehicles more fuel-efficient than ever before.

Engine Type 

Different engines have varying levels of fuel efficiency. Older technologies typically consume the most fuel. Recent advancements in internal combustion engines have also improved gas mileage through innovations like direct fuel injection, variable valve timing and turbocharging. Some turbocharged engines can increase fuel efficiency by up to 10% and potentially reduce emissions. 

Driving Habits 

Your driving style could directly impact fuel efficiency. Maintaining steady speeds and avoiding sudden stops can help improve gas mileage. You can reduce fuel consumption by 20% by driving at the posted speed limit and dropping your highway cruising speed.

Aerodynamics

Cars with sleek, aerodynamic designs cut through the air with less resistance, reducing the energy required to propel the vehicle forward. In turn, this improves fuel economy. Features like low-rolling-resistance tires and engine start-stop technology can also enhance gas mileage. 

Find the Best Cars for Gas Mileage

Today, everyone is searching for the best cars for gas mileage, and understandably so. Volatile prices have made fuel efficiency a bigger priority than a decade ago. These vehicles give you the most bang for your buck at the pump without compromising on performance or features. Choose the best option for your specific needs and budget.

The post The Best Cars for Gas Mileage That Aren’t Hybrids appeared first on Modded.

When you buy a set of sticker tires, you expect them to last a long time. However, not all brands give you the same quality. Today’s economic climate may mean searching for more affordable options. While budgets are great, you could end up with one of the worst tire brands. Which ones should you avoid? Here’s a guide to your wheels and how you should shop. 

What Are the Worst Tire Brands on the Market?

Higher-quality tires typically mean you’ll pay a premium at the checkout counter. These six options may be cheaper but could make your ride more vulnerable. Avoid the worst tire brands and instead opt for ones with trusted reputations. 

6. Cooper

If you’ve never seen a Cooper tire, you may recognize its parent company. Goodyear bought the Cooper Tire and Rubber Company in 1960 and has used the business to sell tires for trucks and motorcycles. The tires you get from Cooper aren’t the same as Goodyear’s, disappointing those who want the high quality. Cooper owners complain about grip and the recent recalls with the company. 

The past few years have seen a handful of Cooper tire recalls, leading to serious questions about their quality. For example, Cooper faced a 430,000-tire recall due to bulging and separation in the sidewall. Cooper’s Discoverer and Evolution tires faced scrutiny along with other subsidiaries. 

5. Westlake

If you need the cheapest tires on the market, you can find brands like Westlake at local retailers. Walmart sells discount brands to attract average customers, so you’ll likely find Westlake tires here. While the price point is attractive, consider the quality before you purchase a fresh set. 

Westlake tires are among the worst tire brands because you get what you pay for. The short-term costs may help in the short term, but your tires and suspension will suffer over time because of the poor quality. Westlake tires sacrifice longevity and cut corners, making them a less appealing option than their competitors. 

4. Douglas

Another cheap tire you’ll find at Walmart is Douglas. In fact, this brand is a Walmart exclusive and another subsidiary of the Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company. Douglas tires aren’t for your car enthusiasts who emphasize performance in their hot rods. Instead, you’re most likely to get a set if you have a strict budget and can’t afford one of the name brands. 

Douglas has some redeemable qualities like affordability. surprisingly good traction and safety. They might be serviceable in a pinch, but you’re better off finding better tire brands. One recurring complaint about Douglas tires is their loud noise, which can be troublesome in the city and residential areas. 

3. Waterfall

Waterfalls are nice when you’re in Yosemite or Victoria Falls. However, the waterfalls aren’t as good for your tires. This brand comes from a Turkish manufacturer and is typically on the discount rack. Waterfall tires are known for their EcoDynamic option, utilizing special compounds to create fewer emissions and lower costs. Your average car produces about 4.6 metric tons of carbon dioxide (CO2) annually, so this feature is a welcome sight. 

However, the tire is still one of the least expensive options for a reason. Like Douglas, Waterfall tires are noisier than premium brands and less reliable. The quality of your drive is less smooth and less enjoyable than tires from other manufacturers. 

2. Lionhart

Imagine you have everything packed for a cross-country road trip. You’re excited to see Los Angeles as you drive on the famous Route 66. Everything is going great until you get a flat tire around Oklahoma City. If you have a Lionhart tire, you can expect to see this type of problem.

Lionhart tires are among the cheapest in North America and aren’t typically the ones you get on a new car. These products are for replacements, carving a niche in the American auto market. The tires have decent handling but are infamous for their quick wear. Experts say your tires should last 70,000 miles, so avoid getting Lionhart if you want the most bang for your buck. 

1. LingLong

When considering reputation, LingLong may have the worst in the market. This business originates from Shandong, China, and has produced tires since 1975. Auto enthusiasts know LingLong because of its questionable quality. They say the company cuts corners and sacrifices quality, thus making them one of the worst tire brands. 

While some sets may be serviceable, LingLong has a history of low quality. The tire brand recently got in trouble due to a massive recall. In 2020, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) recalled 2,830 LingLong tires because these units could have faced sidewall separation. 

What to Look for in Your Tire Selection

Buying tires can be complicated if you don’t know what you’re looking for. The worst tire brands typically won’t excel in these three categories. 

Braking Distance

Safety is priority No. 1 for your car, so examine the braking distance in your tires. This quality refers to how quickly your vehicle stops when you hit the brakes. Even safe drivers must slam the brakes if a hazard suddenly appears in front of them. Wider tires will suit your needs the best if braking ability is your primary concern. 

Tread Life

Tires rely on their tread for grip, so tread life should be another critical factor in your tire purchase. Michelin, Continental, Yokohama and other high-quality tire brands consistently provide the best longevity for tires based on their material selection. Compare your tires to NBA players — getting LeBron tires is preferable to a set of four Bill Waltons. 

Fuel Economy

Believe it or not, your tires impact your fuel economy. The modern emphasis on lowering emissions means exploring better tire options is worth your time. Generally, smaller tires will have less rolling resistance, leading to better miles per gallon on the road. Ultimately, it comes down to size. Heavier tires make your engine work harder to move your car, so make fuel economy a priority. 

Avoid the Worst Tire Brands for a Better Experience

Tires are critical for your car because you can’t go without them. While some manufacturers have discount options, some brands give you the worst tire possible. The redeemable qualities go out the window when you’re stuck on the side of the road changing your tire. 

The post Terrible Treads: Ranking the 6 Worst Tire Brands appeared first on Modded.

Summer is coming and the beautiful weather means more and more people will be out on the roads. Occasionally, though, the high temperatures also mean your engine will start overheating while you’re driving down the road or sitting in traffic. What should you do when your engine overheats? What about if your engine starts smoking?

First, What Not to Do

We’ll cover what you should do in a minute. First, here are a few things you shouldn’t do in the event your car starts overheating or smoking:

1. Don’t panic. Get to the side of the road or a safe spot quickly, but don’t rush or put yourself or other drivers in danger.
2. Don’t try to open your radiator cap. The pressure that builds up inside your cooling system should make the cap difficult to open, not to mention hot, and if you do open it, it can also throw boiling coolant all over you, resulting in severe burns.

How long does it take for a radiator to cool? Usually, waiting an hour or two is sufficient. However, you might need to give your vehicle additional time if you breakdown in the middle of the desert at high noon — as much as three to five hours. 

Now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s move on to what you need to do if your engine overheats.

What Causes Engines to Overheat?

Engines overheat for a number of reasons — problems with the thermostat, a faulty water pump, failure of a radiator fan, or a clogged radiator, and that’s just to name a few. Your engine maintains a lower operating temperature by the cooling system, which includes hoses, a radiator, a thermostat and various sensors that report to the engine control module, the computer under your hood. Any failure in any one of these things could cause the engine to overheat. Let’s take a closer look at three of the more common causes of cooling system failure.

1. Failed Thermostat

The thermostat is a simple switch that reacts to heat. When the engine is cold, it remains closed keeping the coolant in the engine. As the engine heats up, the thermostat opens and allows the coolant to flow into the radiator. If the thermostat is stuck closed, it can cause your engine to overheat because the refrigerant is trapped in the engine.

Swapping out a thermostat is pretty easy. Just remove the upper radiator hose, remove the thermostat housing, replace the thermostat and the gasket that sits between the housing and the engine block and replace the housing and hose. Thermostats, in most cases, will cost you less than $20.

2. Lack of Coolant

While your engine is cold, take a look at your coolant reservoir. If you don’t have enough coolant in your engine, it will overheat because there isn’t enough liquid to carry the heat away from the combustion chamber. The source of the leak might be obvious — especially if you’ve found puddles of antifreeze under your car as it cools — or it might be internal. If there are no apparent leaks, check your oil. White or milky oil is a sign that you’ve blown your head gasket and the coolant is leaking into your engine oil.

If there are no detectable leaks, you have enough coolant in your radiator and the engine is still overheating, you can also try including a coolant additive the next time you fill up your radiator. These lower the running temperature of your coolant, making your engine run up to 10 degrees cooler, preventing overheating.

3. Internal Clogs

Just because your radiator looks okay on the outside doesn’t mean the coolant is flowing freely. If the coolant can’t move, it’s going to continue to pull in heat until it can flash-boil inside your engine, doing damage to the cooling system and venting all your antifreeze.

Clogs can be small or large and can appear anywhere in the cooling system. The most common clogs are found in the radiator, as well as in the hoses that move the fluid too and from the engine block. This problem can be an easy fix. In many cases, all you need to do is flush out your cooling system with a regular garden hose. Radiator flush can also help because it adheres to the particles that can gather together and create clogs.

What to Look for When Your Engine’s Overheating

Newer cars are designed to shut off to protect your engine in the event it overheats, which can leave you stranded in the middle of the road if you’re not careful.

Here are a few things you can look at if your engine starts overheating:

• Are there any obvious leaks, either in the radiator, the hoses or the seals?
• Water level. Once your engine cools and the coolant returns to the reservoir, is it at the proper level?
• Locate your water pump with the engine running. Is the pully spinning freely? Is the belt spinning the pully properly or is it slipping?
• Are your radiator fans spinning? If the engine is overheating, the fans should be spinning to try to cool the engine.

If a quick inspection of the engine doesn’t yield any information, the problem may be harder to determine and might take a trip to your local garage.

Could You Have a Bad Radiator? 

Engine overheating often occurs from radiator trouble. Fortunately, this repair is relatively easy to DIY on many older vehicles, although newer models may require a trip to the shop. Mechanics need specialized equipment to work on some engines, which few laypeople have in their garage. Signs it may be time for a new radiator include the following: 

• Frequent engine overheating
• Coolant leaking beneath your vehicle 
• Difficulty shifting
• Fluid discoloration 

Sometimes, you can get away with simply swapping out the cap, which you can pick up for a few bucks at your local auto parts store. However, continuing to drive with an inefficient cooling system can lead to severe engine trouble, so please don’t ignore a trip to the shop if DIY fixes fail to address the problem. 

Smoking Engines

If you notice smoke coming from under your hood, it’s safe to say it’s something that you should get checked out. Old seals, worn piston rings and a variety of other issues can cause smoking from under the hood of your car or from the tailpipe.

One issue that requires an immediate trip to the garage is a leak in your fuel line. Gasoline is a highly flammable substance, and a single spark could cause that stuff to ignite. If it’s sprayed around your car’s engine, a fire could erupt and burn to an impressive size or explode — if this occurs, immediately pull over, exit the vehicle and get clear.

Is a Smoking Engine Always Dangerous? 

Typically, a smoking car engine warrants a trip to the garage. However, it may not spark immediate panic — or fire risk. How can you tell? Look at the smoke color. 

Black smoke causes the most concern — it means there is raw fuel somewhere there shouldn’t be. You’re better off calling a tow truck. However, white, gray or bluish smoke usually indicates you can make it to the garage. 

• White smoke indicates a coolant leak from a faulty gasket or lines. It’s usually wispy and looks like steam and has a sweet, pungent odor. 
• Blue smoke denotes that your engine is burning oil. The issue might be leaky valves, worn piston rings or a plugged PVC valve. A common cause is overfilling the crank case — did you recently change or top off your oil? Have you gone too long between changes? 
• Gray smoke pouring from your tailpipe signifies transmission fluid leaking into the intake manifold. 

Changes In Modern Engine Technology

There’s a bright and dark side to today’s technology. First, the good news. Nearly every car on the market today comes equipped with an ODB-11 port that allows you to connect a computer to quickly detect the cause of your car’s overheating.

The best part? They have these nifty gadgets at nearly every O’Reilly or other major car repair retailer such as Napa. You can stop in and ask an associate to diagnose your issue — it may be something you can handle with a few products from their store.

Now the bad news. Today’s engines also contain different components and are often constructed in a way that makes DIY difficult, if not impossible. Although some states have implemented right-to-repair laws, some argue that sharing vehicle data makes it too available for hackers, raising safety concerns. While the battle continues to allow consumers to access all the mechanical data created by their cars to let them diagnose, maintain and repair their rides independently, you may have no choice in the meantime than to visit an authorized dealer and pay their prices.

Can’t Make It to the Garage?

If you’re unable to make it to the garage, there are a few products you can use to reduce leaks, improve engine performance and help make your car run a little smoother. Bar’s Leaks, for example, provides a troubleshooting guide to help you find the perfect product to suit your needs.

This walks you through your problem and shows a variety of products to seal, clean and even repair almost every system in your car. You don’t need to be a car expert to utilize these tools to keep your car running smoothly.

An overheating or smoking engine doesn’t have to signal the end of your road trip. Just keep this information in mind, don’t panic, and be prepared for anything.

Originally posted 5/2/2016 – Last updated 5/1/2024

The post What to Do When Your Engine Overheats appeared first on Modded.