Car owners must frequently check their trucks to ensure they’re in tip-top condition. One of these regular maintenance checklists is to change the transmission fluid. Learn how to drain the oil, replace the filter and refill the transmission pan with fresh lubricant. 

What Is the Basic Function of the Transmission?

Before you roll up your sleeves for some messy work, it’s essential to understand transmission since it’s tied to the meat of the topic. 

What Is the Transmission and How Does It Work?

Your car’s transmission is the gearbox, which directs the engine’s power to the wheels to move the vehicle. This system also slows the engine down and makes the wheels run at different speeds.

The transmission consists of gears, allowing you to control the power delivered to the car under various driving conditions. It can be either manual or automatic. 

The automatic transmission gives drivers more freedom behind the wheel since they don’t have to worry about switching gears. The catch is it consumes plenty of gas, making it less fuel-efficient. On the other hand, the manual type allows for more control of the automobile. For instance, you can slow down instead of braking. The caveat is you may need weeks of maneuvering practice before you feel comfortable taking the car off the road. 

Without this automatic or manual engine moderator, the car will overheat and spin out of control. 

Where Is the Transmission Located?  

There’s no permanent location for the transmission since its spot depends on the make and model. It can either be in the front, middle or rear. The gearbox is often attached to the engine. In front-wheel-drive cars, it’s usually mounted within the compartment directly connected to the engine. In rear wheel-drive vehicles, it’s attached to the end of the engine under a housing. 

Your car’s manual is a good reference for checking the exact location of the transmission system. 

How to Tell if Transmission Is Bad or Faulty 

The signs of wear and tear on this part are due to many factors. For example, issues with the fluid often result in damaged transmission. You should be wary and proactive in addressing these problems. Failure to repair or replace a malfunctioning gearbox can put your safety at risk. Here are some indications:

1. Burning Smell

 If you feel a nasty sting in your nose coming from the car  — like melting plastic — it could mean the gearbox is overheating or the fluid is burning. It’s risky because it can cause electric fire. If you don’t know how to troubleshoot a car, contact a mechanic for a vehicle health checkup.

2. Leaking Fluid

The transmission fluid is one of many oils in your car. It has a sweet scent and red color to distinguish it from other lubricants. Checking if your vehicle is leaking fluid is simple. Look for any signs of oil on the garage floor or driveway. Grease marks on the ground are an indication of damaged transmission. 

3. Trouble Switching Gears

The transmission has reached its limit if you need to put more effort in switching gears. Another hint is if the car slips between gears when driving. These malfunctions are hazardous and may increase your risk for accidents. Fix the problem immediately. 

4. Strange Noise When the Car Is Neutral

Your car’s transmission needs immediate inspection if you hear any whining, buzzing or humming sound when the clutch is in neutral.

5. Vibration or Shaking

Unsteadiness when switching automotive cogs is another warming sign of a failing part. Get a mechanic to check the transmission.  

A habitual inspection can help you identify problems right away. Learn how to do it yourself or visit a mechanic regularly for a car health assessment. 

How to Change Transmission Fluid by Yourself

Some gearbox issues are caused by its lubricant. Learn how to examine transmission fluid quality and replace it. 

What Is Transmission Fluid?

The car uses different oils to move the parts without being damaged by constant mechanical friction. The transmission fluid keeps automotive parts from rubbing against each other. It coats the components with grease to minimize the grinding of rough surfaces and ensure the engine runs steadily.

The transmission fluid also acts as a thermal exchanger, diverting heat away from the engine so it doesn’t seethe. An engine can combust at temperatures ranging from 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit to 4,500 degrees Fahrenheit. The gearbox oil serves as a coolant to prevent the components from deteriorating.

How to Check the Transmission Fluid

Many vehicles have a dipstick, which you can use to measure how much oil is left inside the gearbox pan. Some modern cars don’t have it, but if you do — follow these steps to check the oil volume. 

1. Open the hood and locate the dipstick. 
2. Once you find it, turn the engine on to warm the vehicle at an operating temperature. 
3. Put the gear in neutral or park with the brake on. 
4. Once the engine is sufficiently primed, pull out the dipstick. 
5. Check the color. It should be reddish. Here’s how to tell the fluid’s health based on color. 

• Bright red: The oil is new and in good condition — no need to take action. 
• Dark red: Schedule a fluid top-up in the future. 
• Brown: The oil has started to oxidate, so keep it in mind and load it up soon. 
• Black: The oil is severely contaminated. Replace the transmission fluid immediately.
• Pink or foamy: The transmission is damaged or the cooler is contaminated. Replace the cooler and flush the transmission fluid.   

6. After identifying its quality, touch the oil with your index finger and rub it against your thumb. If you feel any fine particles, the fluid is polluted and the filter is worn out. 
7. Wipe the dipstick clean with a lint-free fabric, then reinsert it into the tube. 
8. Pull it out again to confirm the reading. Every dipstick has a marker, indicating the proper oil level. Some have “hot” or “cold” labels, while others have L or H (low or high) and Min and Max (abbreviations for minimum and maximum.) 

If you can’t find the dipstick or your car doesn’t have one, refer to the owner’s or car service manuals. Other models have inspection plugs that require special procedures when checking or replenishing the transmission fluid. 

Results of the Oil Check

The transmission fluid inspection has three probable outcomes.

• You only need to fill up if the oil is low, looks reddish and smells OK. 
• You should drain and replace the oil if it looks dark and smells burnt.  
• You should change both the fluid and filter if it’s black and mixed with debris,    

Transmission Fluid Refill

The process to replenish a low-level gearbox oil is straightforward. Follow these steps. 

1. Remove the dipstick from the tube. 
2. Insert the long funnel. 
3. Once the funnel is secure, begin adding fluid slowly. Add a small amount at a time, ensuring not to overfill. 
4. Recheck the reading with the dipstick.
5. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you get the right fluid volume. 

Transmission Fluid Change

The first step is learning how to drain transmission fluid. Emptying the pan can be messy, but other than this, the process is beginner-friendly. You can hire a mechanic to do the dirty work or do it yourself and save labor money. Begin by following these instructions. 

How to Drain the Transmission Fluid

You must first clear the pan with the contaminated fluid. 

Things you need:

• Gloves
• Goggles
• Jack stands
• Collection pan
• Ratchet
• Rags or paper towels

If you’re ready, here are things you must do. 

1. Get the vehicle in the air and use jack stands or ramps as supports to maintain their elevation.
2. Wear your gloves and goggles for protection.
3. Once ready, slide the collection container and get under the car to locate the transmission pan.  
4. Examine it. Some models have removable plugs in the center, which you can rotate in reverse to start draining. Others have bolts around them that you need to loosen up before you can pull the pans free. Determine how to extract the used fluid.
5. When you’ve done that, place the collection receptacle below the pan.
6. Slowly remove the plug or unscrew the drain bolts using a ratchet one at a time for a controlled spill.

Get a bigger collection pan to minimize the mess on your driveway or parking area. Alternatively, you can place a large tarp under it that will prevent floor spills. Use the rags to wipe any overflows on the floor. 

How to Change the Transmission Filter

Can you change the transmission fluid without replacing the filter? Yes. You can leave it if the oil quality is good. However, a good practice is to detach the filter to check for cracks or holes that can cause leakage. If it does have even a tiny slit, swap it with a new part.

Things you need:

• Ratchet
• New transmission filter

Make sure to get an identical replacement filter. Ask an auto mechanic for advice if you don’t know what type to get. After pulling out the transmission pan, follow these steps. 

1. Use a ratchet to remove the bolt securing the filter to the car. 
2. Get the new filter and lubricate the O-rings with some grease before pushing them into the tube. 
3. Once done, attach the new filter. Line the fittings into the holes and push them in before tightening the bolt. Make sure it’s not too tight to avoid damaging the part.

After swapping the filter, the next step is to reattach the transmission pan. Before doing so, wipe it clean with a degreaser and a paper towel or clean rag. Use a ratchet to put all the bolts back. You can begin replenishing the fluid afterward.

How to Add Transmission Fluid

This process is similar to how you refill the transmission fluid.

1. Remove the dipstick.
2. Insert the long funnel.
3. Pour in the brand-new transmission oil.
4. Reinsert the dipstick and check if it’s at the right level. Generally, you need about 4-6 quarts to fill the transmission pan. However, it also depends on the make and model. Check the owner’s manual for this information.  
5. Once done, reinsert the dipstick and lock the tube.

This concludes the steps for changing the transmission fluid. You can give the car a test drive to check the gear-shifting functions. 

How Often Should You Change the Transmission Fluid?

The owner’s manual typically recommends changing the transmission fluid between 30,000 and 100,000 miles, but regular inspection will ideally tell you when it’s time for a replacement. You may need to fill up the oil regularly if you’re constantly towing in hot weather. Frequent inspection and maintenance is crucial. If you detect foul smells and warning signs before your vehicle reaches 30,000 miles, resupply the oil. 

What Happens if You Don’t Change the Transmission Fluid?

Like engine oil, transmission fluid wears out and loses its lubricating and cleaning properties. It can cause excess friction and deteriorate the internal clutches when shifting gears. It can also lead to overheating issues. Degraded lubricant loses its ability to regulate combustion heat, damaging the bearings, gears and moving parts. 

How Much Does Changing the Transmission Fluid Cost?

The average cost of changing the transmission fluid is around $150 to $200, whereas a new filter often ranges from $100 to $250. Therefore, a transmission fluid and filter change can cost between $250 to $450. You can save a few bucks if you buy the parts and do the maintenance yourself.

How Much Does it Cost to Rebuild a Transmission?

If you still experience gear issues after restocking the fluid, the problem might be with the transmission. Schedule an inspection with a mechanic to pinpoint the underlying issue. 

On average, a transmission repair can cost between $1,800 and $3,400, depending on the damage to the parts. The labor typically starts from $500 to $1,200. 

If repair is impossible, a new transmission will cost $1,800 to $3,500.

Change Your Transmission Fluid Manually at Home

Owning a car involves several maintenance obligations that can quickly burn a hole in your pocket. Learning to do simple regular checks and repairs — like changing transmission fluid — can minimize associated expenses. Fortunately, you don’t have to be an automotive expert to learn a trick or two about vehicle maintenance. Follow the above steps to change transmission fluid in the most economical way. 

The post How to Change Your Transmission Fluid appeared first on Modded.

The Mazda Miata is a canvas for automotive artists to paint as they please. This tiny car packs a punch with its stock engine, but you can take it to the next level by swapping the engine. What are the best Mazda Miata engine swaps? Knowing which motors work for your vehicle is critical before getting the tools out. Here’s a guide to making your modded Mazda Miata the coolest one on the block. 

What Are the Best Mazda Miata Engine Swaps of 2024?

Choosing an engine swap over forced induction lets you get creative with your customization. The motor you pick will significantly influence your performance, so carefully scrutinize each option. These nine Miata engine swaps heighten power, handling, efficiency and more.

Hellcat

When you think of motor swaps, a Miata with a Hellcat engine might not be the first to come to mind. Still, you should consider the Dodge SRT Hellcat’s engine if you’re looking for power. The Mazda MX-5 Miata maxed out at 181 whp, whereas the Hellcat gives you over 700 whp at 6000 RPM. 

One thing you’ll need to consider is the weight distribution. The Hellcat weighs over 4,000 lbs and gives you one of the biggest engine options in a Miata, significantly affecting your vehicle’s handling.

The Hellcat’s V8 engine would disrupt your Miata’s balance, sending the weight to the front and making driving more challenging. Suddenly, driving around curves and corners becomes dangerous.

The Miata’s engine bay is designed to have a small motor, so fitting this V8 engine will require you to modify the subframe, exhaust system, engine mounts and more. The sheer size makes the motor more suitable for a Dodge Ram, but it can fit with the magic touch. 

• Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
• Displacement: 6.2L (6,166 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 90.9mm 
• Power: 717 whp
• Torque: 649 wtq
• Weight: 247-259kg

GM LFX V6 

If you want a powerful engine but are hesitant about the Hellcat, consider the GM LFX V6. This motor provides a terrific spark of power but fits more naturally into your Miata. You’ll get up to 323 whp from this high-performing lightweight engine.

You’ll typically find the LFX V6 in Chevrolet Camaros, so imagine that comparison in your Miata engine swap. The exhaust note alone impressed us on this engine swap, so it’s worth the time if you want increased torque and a more muscle-car feel.

The LFX V6 is bigger, but your Miata’s engine bay should accompany the new engine without much adjustment. The motor is also longer, so the weight distribution won’t be a limiting factor.

• Compression Ratio: 11.5:1
• Displacement: 3.6L (3,564 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 85.6mm
• Power: 300-323 whp
• Torque: 264-278 wtq
• Weight: 157kg

If you want a more eco-friendly Miata swap, the GM Ecotec engine is a solid option. This motor might not be as fuel-efficient as hybrids on the market, but it has enhanced fuel efficiency. 

Honda K20

The Honda K-Series engines provide the easiest Miata engine swap selections because they fit seamlessly. This exchange is preferable if you have less experience with engine swaps or don’t want to alter your Miata too much.

The K-20 motor’s performance depends on your selection because there are plenty of options. The K20A1 is the first in the series, featuring 156 whp at 6,500 rpm and 139 lb-ft of torque. 

Regardless of your pick, the K20 is much lighter and maintains your Miata’s ideal weight distribution. Thus, your Miata will continue to excel in its handling and balance.

Choosing the K20 gives you variability because this engine’s aftermarket support is robust. You can further tune the motor to your liking and add even more whp if desired. Plus, the aftermarket makes it easier to repair if something goes awry.

• Compression Ratio: 9.7:1 – 11.7:1
• Displacement: 2.0L (1,996 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 85.9mm
• Power: 156-306 whp
• Torque: 139-295 wtq
• Weight: 183.7kg

Honda K24

Honda is a solid automaker for young people buying cars and anybody wanting a reliable vehicle. That said, the Japanese manufacturer also makes excellent engines for swaps.  

The Honda K24 is among the most common Miata engine swaps, with Soichiro Honda’s K-Series engines fitting well inside your vehicle. They’ll work similarly in your Miata, but there are a few differences to consider.

The K24 has a higher displacement at 2.4L, allowing you more torque and power than the average engine. Picking a K24 engine adds over three kilograms to your engine bay, which may seem minuscule. Still, the difference could be significant for your Miata’s weight distribution.

Selecting between the two depends on your preferences. The K24 offers more low-end torque, whereas the K20 offers higher rpm. In terms of price, the K20 is generally more affordable due to its long life on the market.

• Compression Ratio: 9.6:1 – 11.6:1
• Displacement: 2.4L (2,354 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 99.0-99.1mm
• Power: 160-206 whp
• Torque: 162-182 wtq
• Weight: 187kg

Honda J-Series V6

Honda engines fit well inside Miata engine bays, so you should also consider the J-Series. These V6 engines are popular alongside the LFX swaps because of their high horsepower and increased performance.

The J-series has numerous options varying in horsepower and displacement, allowing flexibility in your swap. This wide selection makes it a contender to be the easiest Miata engine swap on the market.

J-Series engines are lightweight, starting as low as 113kg and maxing out around 163kg. Thus, the transition to these engines will be easy for your Miata. The low-end torque makes it easy to keep your Miata as a daily driver.

There are some challenges with the J-series engines. For example, the aftermarket community isn’t as large as the K-series and other engines. Plus, these V6 engines have unique wiring and electronic systems that may confuse the average Miata owner when transitioning.

• Compression Ratio: 10.0:1 – 11.2:1
• Displacement: 3.5L (3,471 cc) – 3.7L (3,664 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 89.0-90.0mm
• Power: 205-310 whp
• Torque: 217-275 wtq
• Weight: 113-163kg

LSx V8

If you kick it old school, the LSx V8 engine suits you. An LS-swapped Miata is more common for older models, so consider that when looking at your options. The LS engines have a large community worldwide, so finding swap kits and advice will be more manageable than other motors.

These engines are best if you want high horsepower with a lighter engine than the SRT Hellcat. The weight will slightly affect the Miata’s handling, so consider suspension changes with the LSx V8.

The Miata engine bay fits this V8 engine without much of a hitch. You may need to adjust the firewall or mounts or cut the frame rails to fit your NA or NB Miata, making the LS swap easier if you have the NC Miata.

Like the K-Series, the LS engines have a long history and numerous editions. The 5.3L engine is the most common LS motor and could be the one in your Miata. 

• Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
• Displacement: 5.3L (5,327 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 91.95mm
• Power: 300-326 whp
• Torque: 330-348 wtq
• Weight: 195-226kg

Mazda 13B

Looking at the best engine swap options, you may hesitate to shoot for a rotary swap. However, you should consider it, starting with the Mazda 13B. It may seem painful, but it’s worth the time.

The 13B engine matches well with the third-generation NC Miata, which Mazda produced from 2006 to 2015. The 13B’s rotary design is beneficial because of its power delivery and wider broadband. Therefore, it’s way more fun to drive.

You may encounter some problems with the 13B motor because rotary engines are unique. These engines are typically less fuel efficient than your Miata’s piston engines. Plus, they often require more maintenance. 

However, you’ll love the 13B when you hear the rotary engine. Mazda has made the 13B since 1978, so you have plenty of options for your swap. 

• Compression Ratio: 8.5:1 – 9.7:1
• Displacement: 1.3L (1,308 cc)
• Piston Stroke: N/A
• Power:  135-280 whp
• Torque: 130-231 wtq
• Weight: 149-152kg

Nissan SR20DET

If you’re searching for a turbocharged engine, the Nissan SR20DET has you covered. This engine has electronic fuel injection and gives the Nissan compact sports their power.

Giving your Miata an SR20 engine allows flexibility on the horsepower, with the standard editions around 200 whp and the modded versions eclipsing 300 whp. The turbocharged engine also allows for better low-end and mid-range torque. Miatas aren’t muscle cars, but they’ll feel closer to that standard with this swap. 

A significant benefit of the SR20DET is its weight. It’s not exactly a feather with its 400-pound weight — but it will maintain the superb handling on your Miata. Another factor to consider is the SR20 has a large aftermarket community, making it easy to adjust your Miata even more after your engine swap.

Compression Ratio: 8.5:1 (red top, silver top) 8.5:1 / 8.3:1 (black top)

Displacement: 2.0L (1998 cc)

Piston Stroke: 86mm 

Power: 201-246 whp

Torque: 203 wtq

Weight: 181kg

Toyota 1GZ-FE V12

The Hellcat isn’t the only unconventional engine swap on the list. If you’re looking for power, the Toyota 1GZ-FE V12 engine packs a punch and will elevate your Miata to the next level.

This V12 engine — like the Hellcat — would increase the horsepower to over 300. Your acceleration and top speed will get much higher. However, the weight will also drastically affect your Miata.

The 1GZ-FE V12 weighs about 300kg and is the biggest engine you can put in a Miata. You’ll need to overhaul the mounts and other supporting engine components.

Nonetheless, the swap is worth it if you want a loud and proud motor. When you hear a Miata with a V12 inside, you’ll understand why we love this engine swap so much.

• Compression Ratio: 10.5:1
• Cylinder Bore: 81mm
• Displacement: 4.9L (4996 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 73.7mm 
• Power: 280-312 whp
• Torque: 460-481 wtq
• Weight: 295kg

Toyota 2JZ-GE

Another Toyota engine worth considering is the 2JZ, one of the most popular motors from the 1990s and 2000s. Toyota manufactured the engine from 1991 to 1996 and divided it into two generations.

If you want your Mazda Miata modded with a Toyota engine, the 2JZ offers a couple of options. The GTE gives you more performance but is far from the cheapest Miata engine swap. 

The 2JZ-GE is a more budget-friendly accommodation and packs a punch with its power. If you like Toyota power, you may also like the 1.5JZ. 

Like Toyota’s V12 engine, you must consider the 2JZ-GE’s size and weight. A 230kg engine may need special accommodations to ensure it doesn’t harm your Miata.  

• Compression Ratio: 10.0:1 (10.5:1 with VVT-i system) 
• Cylinder Bore: 86m
• Displacement: 3.0L (2,997 cc)
• Piston Stroke: 86mm
• Power: 215-230 whp
• Torque: 279-304 wtq
• Weight: 230kg

Finding the Easiest Miata Engine Swap

Before purchasing an engine and grabbing the torque wrench, it’s essential to understand how engine swaps work. Here are eight factors you need to consider when undergoing this process.

Compatibility

The first measure is to ensure your Miata is compatible with the engine you’re inserting. For example, examine your engine mounts to align the motor inside your engine bay correctly. 

Getting the correct mounts for your Miata engine swap is crucial to setting up the rest of the process. Look at the transmission as an example — the mounts align your engine with the transmission to transfer power. You’ll be in trouble from the start with incompatible engine mounts.

Weight

Next, consider the weight. Miatas are famously lightweight and fun to drive. You’ll need to watch the weight of your engine swap to ensure you get the same experience.

Specifically, you’ll need to watch the weight distribution. A dramatic weight change can negatively affect your balance and fundamentally change the car. Ensure the Miata engine swap has the same or an improved weight distribution to maintain your handling.

Tuning Goals

Tuning is one of the most fun things you can do with a car. That said, you must enter the task with a basis of what you want to do. Are you looking for the easiest or cheapest Miata engine swap? If you have a large budget, you could swing for the fences and get a big engine. 

After you understand your budget, move to the performance aspects. Are you looking for better fuel mileage or engine performance? Consider the horsepower, torque, handling and the other aspects of a good motor in your Miata. 

Electrical System

One of the pesky parts of engine swaps is dealing with the electrical system. This complex infrastructure requires you to investigate the engine’s amperage, sensors and gauges.

Check the wiring harnesses, control modules, electrical fan circuits, and other parts of the electrical system in your Miata engine and the swapped motor. Do you need to modify the wiring? If so, you may need some aftermarket help linking the two.

Cooling System

Cooling systems are easier to swap than electrical units but still require work and investigation. Newer engines get much hotter than the one in your Miata from the ’90s, so you’ll need enhanced cooling for the motor.

Check your Miata’s radiator and intercooler to see if it can support the replaced engine. If not, you’ll need additional cooling components and modifications to assist your radiator. The last thing you want is a blown engine on your first day with what you thought was the best Miata engine swap.

Fuel System

Another critical component to inspect is your fuel system. Inspect your Miata’s fuel pressure, fuel pump capacity, injector size and more to keep them as close as possible to the swapped motor. Your priority should be ensuring fuel delivery is as smooth as your original engine’s.

Then, consider fuel compatibility. Your Miata uses gasoline, but the swapped engine may require diesel or alternative fuel. In this case, you’ll need to change the fuel tank, lines and injector to install the new system.

Exhaust

Nowadays, you don’t want to compromise engine efficiency, so your swap must consider the exhaust system. Check the swapped engine to ensure it’s compatible with your Miata’s exhaust manifold. A good exhaust system means you’ll maintain your horsepower and torque, leading to increased performance on the road.

Plus, your exhaust system will significantly influence the noise emitted from your car. It’s essential to check the exhaust notes from your swapped engine to see if you need to make any alterations to the system.

Transmission

While a Miata with a Hellcat engine sounds fun, you must consider the transmission compatibility. Finding a great motor doesn’t matter if your engine and transmission don’t match. 

How can you gauge their compatibility? Start by checking the gear ratios because it’s critical they match. If the engine is too powerful for the transmission, you’re in trouble because you’ll cause excessive strain and compromise performance. 

Emissions Compliance

Noise pollution is a concern for your exhaust — so is greenhouse gas pollution. Twenty-nine states require emissions tests to register a vehicle, so emissions compliance should be one of your highest priorities in a state like California.

Your Miata’s exhaust system should have updated catalytic converters and oxygen sensors to control its emissions. One way to reduce your Miata’s emissions is to convert it into a battery-electric vehicle or use a highly efficient engine like the GM Ecotec.

Budget

Engine swaps are fun projects for gearheads, but you need to consider your budget for time and money. This process will take hours of manual labor and a few thousand dollars. However, look at the project as an investment — you’ll garner the benefits of a swapped engine, such as increased horsepower, torque and fuel efficiency.

If you’re not confident in your mechanical abilities, consider hiring a professional to exchange the engines. They’ll ensure your swap goes smoothly and may require less time and money than if you did the process yourself.

Are Miatas Easy to Work On?

If you decide to do the engine swap, you can help yourself by getting a Miata engine swap skit. This toolkit will set you up for success and ensure the process runs smoothly. Your homemade Miata swap kit should include these 10 items.

Compression Tester

First, you should test your engine’s health, which you can accomplish through a compression tester. This device tells you the compression pressure in each engine cylinder. Low pressure could mean a few things, such as leaky valves, gasket issues or worn pistons.

Use your compression tester on the current and swapped engine to compare their health. You’ll have a baseline for the cylinder pressure, making it easier to diagnose engine problems down the road.

Hand Tools

Hand tools make the engine swap more manageable, so ensure your Miata engine swap kit includes the following:

• Flathead and Phillips-head screwdrivers
• Hammer
• Impact and Allen wrenches
• Socket set
• Pliers
• Pry bars

Engine Crane

Another way to make your engine swap easier is to have an engine crane, also known as a cherry picker. This device does the heavy lifting if the engine weighs too much for you to remove manually. You’ll also benefit from more precise positioning when aligning the engine mounts and increased safety for everyone involved.

Jack Stands

Removing your Miata’s engine makes the vehicle temporarily unstable, so you’ll need jack stands to maintain the balance during the engine swap. 

Jack stands are preferable to hydraulic jacks because they’re reliable and provide adequate support for your car. The engine swap could take a few hours, so having jack stand support is essential.

Transmission Jack

While the engine needs support, don’t forget about your transmission jack. This tool is essential because you want to prevent this crucial part from falling. You also make it easier to work on if it needs assistance. 

The transmission jack also heightens accuracy when you reinstall it in your vehicle. Prioritize good care for your transmission because you don’t want its light on your dashboard popping up on your first Miata drive. 

Engine Mounts

Another critical point of support comes from your engine mounts. These devices keep your engine inside the bay and align the motor with the chassis.

Your new engine could be heavier or have a different weight distribution, so the engine mounts ensure the bay can support the load across the chassis. Also, revving the new engine could shift the motor, so having the mounts is essential.

Brackets

Brackets are tiny enough to fit in your hand but are integral to the engine swap process. Primarily, you’ll need them for your engine mounting. Your swapped engine may have different mounting points, so the brackets help your new motor adapt.

These are also critical for integrating every component of the swapped engine into your vehicle. For example, you may need brackets for the power steering pump, air conditioning compressor or alternator.

Fluid Transfer Pump

Before swapping engines, you’ll need to drain the old one of its fluids — including the oil, coolant, transmission fluid and more. Make the process easier with a fluid transfer pump in your Miata engine swaps because they ensure clean draining.

If you’re not careful, the fluid transfer could get messy. For example, the coolant system could begin bleeding after air pockets get trapped in it. Your transfer pump mitigates the bleeding by freeing the air in the cooling system.

Multimeter

Multimeters help before and after the engine swap to test the electrical components of your engine. This device lets you measure voltage and identify wiring issues or faulty sensors.

For example, multimeters are excellent for continuity testing. These devices can identify breaks in the wiring or open circuits. After using the multimeter, you’ll know if and where repairs are necessary for your engine’s wires.

Safety Gear

Don’t discount safety when working on your engine swap. You never know what accidents can arise, so the last thing you want is an injury in your garage. 

Protect your body and garage by assembling a first-aid kit and wearing eye protection at all times. Fires shouldn’t be an issue because Miatas are easy to work on and don’t carry this risk. If you work with power tools, wear ear protection to safeguard your hearing. 

Comparing Forced Induction and Engine Swaps

Miata engine swaps are popular upgrades if you want something different under the hood, but you can opt for forced induction instead. Which route should you take? Let’s look at the benefits of each.

Forced Induction 

Forced induction is popular if you want to turbocharge your Miata. The pros of forced induction include the following:

• Originality: Using forced induction, you can keep your current engine. If you’re a Miata purist, you’ll appreciate maintaining the identity of your engine.
• Cost: You’re keeping the engine in place, so forced induction costs are typically lower than engine swaps. Plus, it’s more convenient because it involves much less hassle on the mechanical side.
• Aftermarket: The Mazda Miata community is extensive, so you’ll have an easy time finding turbocharger kits for your Miata. These tools make your installation much more manageable.

Engine Swaps

The engine swap option may be more complicated, but it has these benefits compared to forced induction.

• Power: Turbochargers and superchargers can increase your power, but engine swaps heighten your power potential and performance.
• Customization: Forced induction is relatively straightforward, but engine swaps let you be creative with your Miata. As you’ll see later in the guide, there are numerous engines you can take to achieve the performance you like.
• Reliability: If you’re looking for reliability, engine swaps are the better choice. Engine swaps can increase the dependability of your Miata if you choose a durable and robust engine. Forced induction can become a liability by overstressing engine components if you don’t closely manage them.

Getting Creative With the Best Mazda Miata Engine Swaps

The Mazda Miata is a blank canvas for gearheads worldwide. You can create a Miata with a Hellcat engine or a Camaro motor to emulate other famous cars. 

How can you make the vehicle your own? Set up a budget and determine which engine is the most compatible with your Miata and your wallet. 

Also, remember that forced induction is also an option if you want a turbo boost. This tuning ensures your Miata is the fastest car in your friend group. 

Looking to continue improving your engine? Check out our list of the best modifications for better engine performance.

Originally posted Jul 28, 2023 – Updated Aug 12, 2024

The post The Best Mazda Miata Engine Swaps Available in 2024 appeared first on Modded.

Your Facebook feed may contain plenty of action-cam footage of everything from downhill skiers to walking the streets of the big city, but you rarely see someone post a video taken by a dash camera. However, the global market for these gadgets is rapidly growing and finding lots of new success in the United States.

Even though it’s not always exciting, dashcam footage is good to have because it protects you. Unlike a camera that’s intended to capture memories you want to relive, dash-cam footage is more of a document of what happened. You can submit it as proof in court.

What Is a Dash Cam?

A dash cam is a video camera mounted in your vehicle, staring out through your windshield. The name “dash cam” is a little bit of a misnomer — while many dash cams are made to be mountable on the dashboard, most are often mounted on the windshield itself to stay out of your way while driving.

Unlike normal cameras that record only when you choose to record, a dash cam should be recording every time you drive. Obviously, not all of that footage will be necessary, and most modern dash cams come with what’s called loop recording, where any old footage is automatically deleted to make way for new footage and prevent a full storage capacity from causing you problems.

The goal of a good dash cam is to be as seamless and low effort as possible. Simply attach the dash cam to your window or dashboard, ideally in a spot that is clean, dry and a neutral temperature, and allow the camera to run without obstruction. This allows for a constant recording of your driver’s POV whenever the vehicle is operating. Still, why should you get a dash cam in the first place?

Legal Protection

Have you ever been in a car accident? Accidents can happen anywhere at any time, regardless of who’s around to see them, and you can be left without any support in a case that was entirely not your fault. Without a dash cam, though, when you’re filing a police report, it’s often your word against the word of the other driver.

If you’re lucky, you might have some witnesses who can corroborate your story, but in general, you’re relying on the police officer who responds to the accident to determine who is at fault. With a dash cam, there is no “he said, she said” — the dash cam provides digital documentation to show the responding officer when you make a report.

Just such a situation is when a dash cam comes in handy. With the ability to call up footage of the incident, you have a much better case to make and could potentially avoid paying high insurance fees or even damages thanks to the proof provided in the footage you collected. It’s the kind of thing you hope you’ll never have to use, but in everyday driving the camera remains out of the way, unobtrusive, quietly monitoring and recording events.

Preventing Insurance Fraud

Insurance fraud has existed nearly as long as insurance has — it’s been traced as far back as ancient Greece. People seeking to get easy money from car insurance companies will cause car accidents, usually forcing you to rear-end them by driving dangerously.

With a dash cam installed on your car, you can prove to your insurance company the accident wasn’t your fault — even if you rear-ended the other car — because the other driver’s dangerous driving behaviors will be captured on video.

The video recording can also be useful for parking accidents when you’re not in your vehicle. If the dash cam is still enabled when you’re away from your car or truck, it can capture footage of the vehicle that crashed into you. This evidence becomes much more important when you’re making an insurance claim, because it proves someone struck your car.

Become a Better Driver

Athletes and other professionals watch videos of themselves to see where they make mistakes and learn how to improve. A dash cam can help you do the same thing for your driving. By reviewing the footage, you can see where you make mistakes behind the wheel and figure out the best way to improve your driving skills.

Video can also be a useful tool for teaching teenagers to drive — and keeping up with their driving skills and techniques while they’re driving. If you’re a parent with a new driver behind the wheel, a dash cam is a great way to review their progress. You can see if they’re speeding, driving recklessly or even if they encounter something challenging so you can give them advice on how to navigate such situations in the future. It can give you better peace of mind if you’re worried about your new driver spending time out on the road.

There Are Fun Reasons to Buy a Dash Cam, Too

Dash cams aren’t just for evidence of car accidents — they can catch amazing things you might otherwise be unable to document while you’re driving. A dash cam in a parked car recorded footage of the enormous Chelyabinsk meteor that exploded through the sky over Russia in 2013. It’s the kind of thing that happens so fast you’d never have time to pull out your camera or cell phone to take a picture before it disappeared forever.

On an off-chance, you might even record something truly impressive like the giant boulder one Russian driver captured blocking the road. What about that cross-country road trip you took last summer? Recounting the entire thing is impressive, but not nearly as detailed as being able to show your friends what you actually experienced on the road.

Documenting Your Trip

People might choose to fly to get to their destinations faster, but there’s still nothing quite like a road trip across the country. You can document bits and pieces of your trip with a cell phone or camera, or you can document your entire trip and all the amazing things you’ve seen with your dash cam! Once you get home, you can edit your dash cam footage into a fantastic clip show to showcase your trip along the highways of America.

Great New Features

The latest generation of dash cams brings HD support, a small footprint, long-duration storage, and useful features like night vision or automatic accident recording. When the camera detects motion that feels like a collision, it automatically saves the footage of time leading up to and following the event. That way, you’re never left without the exact footage you need.

Best of all, prices for these handy gadgets have come way down in recent years. You can now purchase a quality dash cam for between $100 and $300, depending on how much storage you’d like and the types of features you want. That’s much less than you would pay for an action camera, so you shouldn’t spend your money on a GoPro if you’re planning to use it like a dash cam.

Should You Get a Dash Cam?

Now that you know a little bit more about how helpful these cameras can be, are you planning on getting one? What kind? Will you use it to record your adventures, check on your family or just as a preventive measure? Let us know in the comments section, and be sure to drive safely.

Originally posted 6/11/2019 — Updated 7/22/2024

The post Should I Get a Dash Cam? appeared first on Modded.

Painting your car with colorshift chameleon pearls is a unique and eye-catching way to give your vehicle a one-of-a-kind appearance. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to paint your car with colorshift chameleon pearls. You’ll also read about mistakes you should avoid when painting your car with color-changing paint. 

How to Paint Your Car with Color-Changing Pearl Paint

Before you paint your car, decide on the base color. Most color-shifting stores will have examples of the paint over a white or black base. Choose what best suits your style then gather all the materials and tools needed for the project. For chameleon paint, you’ll need three different layers, a base layer, an iridescent layer and a clear layer. It’ll cost about $200 for everything you need to change the color of your car.

Materials Needed

• Colorshift chameleon pearls (available at auto parts stores or online)
• Automotive paint (color of your choice)
• Clear paint base
• Clear coat
• Primer
• Sandpaper (various grits)
• Masking tape
• Tape and Drape
• Paintbrushes and rollers
• Paint gun (optional)
• Prewash

Instructions

Here’s how to change the color of your car.

Prepare Your Car

Clean the car’s surface thoroughly to remove dirt, dust and grease. You’ll want to wash the car and ensure it’s completely dry before you start. Use a degreaser to clean the surface if necessary. Lightly sand the car’s surface to create a smooth finish. Use a 220 grit to feather, then a 320 to 400 grit on areas surrounding the featheredge.

Mask the car

This step is one of the most important. If you mask your car well, it will take less time when it comes to clean-up after the paint job. Use tae and drape to cover the windows, engine area and any other surfaces you won’t paint. Make sure you reinforce the masking with more tape to edge everything off. Predip spray. 

Prime The Car’s Surface

Apply a layer of primer to the entire car’s surface with the paint gun. Allow the primer to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions. 

Apply the Base Coat

Choose an automotive paint that matches the color you want the pearlescent effect to shift toward. A lighter base will work well if you want the color to pop. A black base will do the trick if you want something subtle that still draws attention.Apply a thin layer of paint to the car’s surface. Allow the paint to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Apply the Colorshift Chameleon Pearls

Use a mixing gun or handheld blender to mix 40 grams of pearls into clear paint. Using a spray gun, apply a thin layer of colorshift chameleon pearls over the base coat. Make sure you cover the entire section of the car’s surface evenly. Repeat this process for multiple coats until you achieve the desired level of pearlescence.

Seal with Clear Coat

Once the pearl layers are fully dry, apply a layer of clear coat to seal in the colorshift effect. Use a high-quality clear coat specifically designed for pearlescent finishes. Let it dry.

Buff and Polish

Use a buffing pad to lightly buff the car’s surface to remove any imperfections or minor scratches. Follow up by polishing the car’s surface using a polishing compound and a soft cloth.

Final Inspection

Inspect the car’s surface for any remaining imperfections and make necessary adjustments. Apply a protective wax or detail spray to maintain the colorshift effect and protect the paint from UV rays. To maintain the car, regularly wash and wax the car to maintain its appearance and longevity. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive materials that may damage the pearlescent finish.

Variations for Color-Changing Car Paint

Maybe you want something more striking. Try these techniques and combinations for a car that looks unique. 

• Mix the colorshift chameleon pearls with transparent paint to create a more subtle shifting effect.
• Experiment with different colors and combinations to achieve a unique look.
• For a two-tone effect, consider applying the pearlescent finish only to certain sections of the car, such as the hood or trunk.
• To enhance the colorshift effect, consider adding a specialized flake or glitter to the clear coat.
• Try a Holographic Pearl over Hypershift for a double effect. 
• Go for Black Interference Pearl Paint. In the absence of direct light, the paint appears a deep black gloss. Under direct light, you will see a deep pearlescent color. 

Mistakes To Avoid When Painting Your Car With Color-Shifting Pearls

1. Not Properly Preparing the Surface

Before applying the pearlescent paint, make sure the surface of your car is clean and free of dirt, dust, grease, and other contaminants. Use a clay bar to remove impurities and smooth the surface for optimal adhesion. Wash the car atleast 24 hours before 

2. Using the Wrong Primer

Pearlescent paints require a specialized primer specifically designed specifically for their unique reflective properties. Using the wrong primer can cause the paint to flake off or lose its iridescent effect. Consult with a professional or do thorough research before choosing a primer.

3. Applying Too Much Paint

It’s important to apply thin coats of pearlescent paint, allowing each layer to dry completely before adding additional coats. Overloading the surface with too much paint can cause it to become uneven and lose its luster.

4. Inadequate Flash Time

Allowing the paint to cure for the recommended time is essential for achieving a durable, high-gloss finish. Don’t rush the process by exposing the paint to direct sunlight, heat, or humidity before fully cured.

5. Using Low-Quality Products

 Cheap, low-quality pearlescent paint can lead to disappointing results. Invest in high-quality products from reputable manufacturers to ensure the best possible outcome.

6. Lack of Proper Clear Coat 

After applying the pearlescent paint, it must be sealed with a clear coat to protect the finish and enhance its glossiness. Choose a high-quality clear coat specifically designed for use with pearlescent paint.

7. Poor Lighting Conditions

The color-changing effect of pearlescent paint highly depends on lighting conditions. Ensure the area where you’re working is well-lit, and consider investing in specialized lighting designed for painting cars.

8. Inconsistent Color Mixing

If you want to create a custom color, mix the paint consistently throughout the entire batch. Any variations in the mixture can result in visible streaks or blotches.

9. Neglecting To Test the Paint on a Small Area First

Always test on a small, inconspicuous area before applying it to the entire car. This will help you identify any potential issues and make necessary adjustments before committing to the full paint job.

The post 9 Mistakes To Avoid When Painting Your Car with Color-Shifting Paint appeared first on Modded.

The automotive industry has slowly been developing self-driving vehicles for decades now. Although no one has achieved full driving automation yet, this technology has made significant advancements in recent years. Believe it or not, almost every car you see on the road today has some sort of automated features. Let’s break down the five levels of driving automation and see which category your vehicle falls under.

Level 1 — Driver Assistance

Most vehicles fall under Level 1 of driving automation, which includes driver support systems like steering assist, brake assist, adaptive cruise control and lane assist technology. The driver still has full control and  must remain alert at all times behind the wheel, but Level 1 automation can provide some extra help with speed or steering. However, it can’t help with both speed and steering at the same time. 

Level 2 — Partial Driving Automation

The second level of driving automation is the most common level these days. Every car with an advanced driving assistance system (ADAS) falls under this category. ADAS can take over steering, braking and acceleration in specific cases. For example, the highway driving assist feature can control the car’s movements on the highway but still requires the driver to have both hands on the steering wheel.

More advanced examples of partial driving automation are Ford’s highway driving assist, which allows hands-free driving on approved highways. Tesla’s new full self driving capability also falls under Level 2 because the driver must still pay attention to the road even though the car is doing the work.

Level 3 — Conditional Driving Automation

The levels of driving automation make a huge leap at Level 3, which is known as conditional driving automation. Level 3 technology is still in its infancy and approval is granted at the state level, which means you probably can’t use conditional driving automation in your area. It includes various unsupervised systems for specific situations, including highway and traffic jam assistance.

Unlike Levels 1 and 2, the driver doesn’t have to supervise Level 3 technology. They should still be able to retake control of the vehicle, but they don’t have to keep their hands on the wheel. Mercedes-Benz is currently developing the first legal Level 3 system in the U.S. market called Drive Pilot, which uses ultrasonic sensors, LiDAR, cameras, microphones and a digital map to analyze road geometry, traffic signs, unique traffic patterns and weather conditions.

Level 4 — High Driving Automation

Level 4 automation takes things a step further, as this technology is entirely self-sufficient and doesn’t require human supervision. It can even intervene if the driver has a health emergency or the vehicle experiences a system failure. The driver still has the option to manually override the system just in case it malfunctions.

However, Level 4 automation is only available in the realm of public transportation, namely self-driving robotaxis in slow and enclosed urban environments. The United States, Canada, France and China all have Level 4 cab services that are slowly being developed for both urban and highway environments. Don’t expect to see daily drivers with Level 4 automation any time soon, though. This technology has a long way to go.

Level 5 — Full Driving Automation

Level 5 vehicles have full driving automation that doesn’t require any human interaction whatsoever. In the future, they won’t have steering wheels or pedals, so manual operation isn’t even an option. The cars will do everything on their own. However, many automotive professionals question whether full automation is even possible.

Will Cars Ever Reach Full Driving Automation?

The quest to achieve all levels of driving automation has reached a roadblock in the early 2020s. While you can find many vehicles that fall under the first three levels, there is a significant drop-off at Levels 4 and 5. Automakers haven’t been able to solve the riddle of adding vehicles with high or full automation into a world of human drivers.

Consumer attitudes have also played a role. The simple fact is that most people don’t want fully autonomous vehicles. They are afraid or untrusting of the technology and would rather maintain control of their cars. They have no problem with advanced driver assistance systems, but they still want to be the primary operators. 

However, increasing collaborations between auto manufacturers could establish some industry standards with self-driving technology and increase the level of public trust. In previous years, Tesla and other big names pursued Level 4 and 5 projects on their own. Moving forward, wide-reaching efforts between companies will be the key to reaching full driving automation.

Level Up Your Driving Experience

If you’re in the market for a new car and don’t know where to start, you can narrow your search by focusing on vehicles with Level 1, 2 and 3 autonomous capabilities. Features like highway and lane assist will level up your driving experience and significantly reduce the risk of an accident. However, don’t expect to find any Level 4 cars during your search.

The post What are the Levels of Driving Automation? appeared first on Modded.

There’s nothing quite like the look of a set of perfectly crisp racing stripes on your favorite daily driver. Racing stripes on cars add a sporty element that takes car customization to the next level.  Even if you never take your car to the track, you can enjoy racing stripes on your vehicle. 

But if you’re going to do it, you need to ensure you have smooth, clean lines that look professional. For this, you must know how to paint stripes on a car. From vinyl wrap to spray paint, here’s how to paint racing stripes on your car that would make Briggs Cunningham proud. 

Decide On Your Stripes

When putting racing stripes on your car, the options are endless. Several variations of the traditional two-line center stripe run down the center of the car from front to back.  You can choose any color, style, or stripe size to represent your style. 

Here are some of the styles of racing stripes for cars you might want to try: 

• Two stripes in one color with a different color outlining each strip. 
• One thick line and one thin line in different colors. 
• One thick line with a different color outline. 
• A different color line running between the two stripes. 
• Bumblee stripes inspired by the 1968 Scat Pack Car consist of side racing stripes across the back of the car. 
• Multiple stripes inspired by Jeff Koons’ explosion of stripes on the BMW M3 GTS. 

It’s essential to decide what you want before the masking tape. While properly used painter’s tape won’t damage your car’s paint job, you’ll leave many sticky strips if you keep placing and removing the tape to get the perfect stripes.

How to Paint Stripes on a Car

Once you’ve decided on the racing stripes you’ll have on your car, the next step is prep work. Take as much time as you need to lay on the masking tape and mask off other areas you won’t paint. 

Prep Your Car for Racing Stripes

First, clean your car to prevent road dirt, dust, dead bugs, and fingerprints from showing up in your finished work. Wash and dry the areas with automotive soap, water and a lint-free cloth. 

Next use blue painter’s tape to map out where you’ll place the racing stripes.  Double-check all your stripe lines and run a squeegee over the painter’s tape to ensure the masking is bubble-free.  

Now you’re ready to paint!

Paint Your Stripes

Spray the racing stripe color in thin, even coats and let it dry completely. Pull the tape away to reveal clean, crisp lines you’ll be proud to show off while driving down the highway. 

How To Use Vinyl Wraps for Car Racing Stripes

Sometimes, people opt for vinyl wraps because they’re easy to apply.  They’re also more durable and may look more professional. Some manufacturers even sell kits for certain makes and models.

Prep Your Car

Once you determine where to apply the stripes, take inventory of any dents, scratches or rust spots. Before moving on, you must remedy these flaws and imperfections because the wrap needs a flat surface to adhere properly.

Next, clean your car to remove dirt, bugs and buildup. Rinse with water and use a wash and wax cleaning product to clean the surface. Rinse one last time and use a microfiber towel to dry it off. Repeat the process if you notice any stubborn streaks or gunk. 

Place the Stripes

Make sure the car racing stripes are in good condition. If they begin to curl or crinkle, your workspace may be too hot or humid. In this case, you may have to find a cool, dry place like a garage to finish the job.

Next, place the stripes exactly where you want them and use masking tape to keep them in place. Ensure they’re straight and cut off any excess material before marking their positions with tape and removing them from your car. 

Apply and Finish

Mist the application site with water and tape one end of each stripe to hold them in place. Then, slowly pull the release paper away and use a squeegee to press it to your car’s surface and remove any air bubbles.

Once your stripes are in place, remove the masking and backing tape. Then, smooth the wrap with a damp squeegee to ensure they are secure. And there you have it. Your whip has racing stripes now!

How to Spray Paint Racing Stripes On Your Car

The process of spray painting stripes is similar to applying vinyl decals. However, the entire job will likely take longer, especially since the paint must dry for at least a day before you hit the open road. 

Prep Your Car 

Prep your car the same way you would before applying vinyl decals. Rinse, wash, rinse again and dry. Once your hood is clean and free of dirt, debris, dents and rust, use painter’s tape to outline your racing stripes. Use the squeegee to firmly secure the tape.

Then, protect the rest of your vehicle from overspray by applying plastic sheeting. You can also lay a drop cloth around the base of your car to preserve your driveway or garage floor. 

Apply Paint 

Slip into some latex gloves — and a mask if you’re indoors — and shake your can of peel-coat paint until you hear the mixing ball rattle. Hold the can eight to 12 inches away from your hood and apply the paint using a back-and-forth motion. Aim for 50% coverage on the first pass. Then, allow that coat to dry before applying any more.

Four or more additional coats with about 10 minutes in between should be enough to create a solid stripe. However, applying more will make removing the stripes easier if you ever decide to peel them off. 

Finish

After you’ve applied the final coat, allow it to dry almost completely before removing the tape. Doing so will ensure the paint’s still wet enough to peel off the tape without breaking the edges and dry enough to prevent gooey edges. Test pull a small, inconspicuous spot before peeling the rest of the tape back on itself to ensure proper timing, achieve clean edges and produce a more professional look. 

Opt For Temporary Racing Stripes

If you’re leasing your car, permanent exterior changes aren’t an option without violating your leasing agreement. Thankfully, you’ve still got options.  You can apply temporary racing stripes on cars with a black peel-coat which comes in an easy-to-use spray paint can. Follow the same steps as above — mask off your stripes, apply four to five coats of the peel coat and once it dries, carefully remove the painter’s tape before giving your new racing stripes at least 24 hours to fully dry. You can leave these temporary stripes in place for up to six months, then peel them off without damaging the paint or clear coat beneath. 

Enjoy Your New Look

Whether you opt for temporary or permanent racing stripes, these accents can add attitude and color to your daily driver. Get creative and try a side stripe or go for a galaxy-themed stripe for a unique look. You may not take your care to the racetrack, but you can still enjoy racing stripes on your car. 

Originally posted 5/4/2020 – Updated 1/23/2024

The post How to Paint Racing Stripes On Your Car appeared first on Modded.

Few things lend character to cars than their color. Black is synonymous with KITT — the 1982 Pontiac Trans Am from Knight Rider. Despite evolving from an unassuming Volkswagen Beetle to a gas-guzzling Chevy Camaro with black racing stripes, Bumblebee remains yellow to the core. Lightning McQueen is everyone’s favorite little red car.

Deciding on a vehicle color that suits your personality seems commonsensible. However, personal taste is subjective, so it can be unreliable when choosing a car color. Picking a hue you like matters, but enthusiasm is fleeting. If your interest in your car’s aesthetics is superficial, you may lose it sooner than expected.

What’s the Best Car Color for the Long Term?

Think about these five factors instead to be objective when making your decision:

1. Cost

Paint color can impact the cost of your car. Auto manufacturers use unique shades to market vehicles and sell them at a premium. Car brands leverage this tactic to appeal to buyers willing to pay more to drive a head-turner that makes them stand out on the road.

However, paint discolors, cracks, mars, scratches, swells, chips, chalks, edge-maps, wrinkles, dulls, pinholes, sags and blisters. It’s prone to bird etching and water spotting, too. When it’s time to repaint one or more of your automobile’s body panels, a less popular color will drive up your bill.

2. Maintenance

Some car colors are better at hiding dirt than others. The ones that naturally highlight dust require more care to look clean and new.

Dirt accumulation is less of a concern when you enjoy vehicle upkeep. If you find it a chore, you’ll hate your choice when it encourages people to draw graffiti on your pollen-covered car. You’ll have to set aside a bigger budget for car wash expenses or frequently spend more time and energy cleaning it.

Moreover, some colors do a better job of visually masking paint imperfections. An option that cloaks auto body damage — such as dents and scratches — is practical.

3. Heat Absorption

The best car color for the long term should suit your region’s weather. Colors react to sunlight differently. Those that absorb most of it will raise your vehicle’s temperature, damage its paint, and increase its need for air conditioning. Conversely, those that reflect most of the sun’s heat can help keep your car naturally cool.

Your automobile’s ability to hold or deflect the solar spectrum’s infrared rays is a big deal. Select a color that will affect your ride’s fuel economy and maintenance needs in the long term.

4. Safety

Did you know that car color correlates with accident risk? Visibility is the primary reason why this is the case. A vehicle that blends well into its surroundings is more likely to crash into another.

Another possible safety concern is police interaction. Cops tend to ticket vehicles of a particular color more often than others. This phenomenon may have more to do with popularity than psychology, so the flashiest isn’t necessarily the strongest traffic citation magnet.

Auto insurers say they ignore car colors when deciding on rates, so they pay no attention to car color-crash risk correlation statistics. A custom paint job can increase your premium since this modification is outside the standard policy coverage.

5. Resalability

Body color is one of the determiners of any vehicle’s resale value. Popular hues generate significant interest, while unusual shades may turn off buyers. Funky paint can be a deal-breaker, for it can be expensive and time-consuming.

What Is the Cheapest Color to Paint a Car?

Vehicles in these achromatic colors traditionally have unwavering demand worldwide, so manufacturers produce them in large quantities. That’s why coats of white, black, gray and silver car paint are more widely available. Therefore, they’re more affordable than specialty shades of automakers, let alone chameleon pearlescent paint whose finely ground aluminum pigments go from purple to pink, depending on the observer’s vantage point.

Which Car Color Hides Dirt Best?

Road dirt camouflages itself best with earth tones, so anything brownish. Any other color will look noticeably dirty at various degrees with grime.

What Paint Colors Hide Imperfections on Cars?

Colors that reflect sunlight well are the best regarding surface wear concealment. White is the most forgiving, silver renders minor dings inconspicuous, and gray obscures blemishes. With any of these, only those who know about your car’s cosmetic defects will notice them.

What Car Color Is Best Against the Sun?

The white and silver car paints’ solar reflectance is 0.60, so 60% of sunlight bounces off them. If you use either of them instead of black — whose solar reflectance is 0.05 — you’ll get 2% more miles per gallon due to decreased air conditioning.

Thanks to reflective coatings, dark-colored vehicles can stay cooler in the sun. They pale in comparison to the most advanced white paint, though. A 150 microns thick layer of this ultrawhite cooling paint can reflect 97.9% of sunlight and reduce outdoor surfaces by 42.8 degrees Fahrenheit below ambient temperature.

What Color Is Good for Driving?

Using white as a reference color, Australian researchers found that black is 47% more collision-prone and pink is 34% safer during dusk or dawn. During daylight hours, black’s relative accident risk drops to 12%, while orange is 11% less susceptible to crashes. Red vehicles are 10% more dangerous at night, whereas mauve cars have a 35% higher chance of reaching their destinations without clashing with others.

Furthermore, a New Zealander study discovered that silver automobiles are 50% less likely to get involved in a road accident resulting in serious injury than white ones.

What Car Color Depreciates the Least?

Regarding resale value, yellow is the best car color for the long term. Used yellow vehicles lose only 13.5% of their value after three years — 9% lower than the market average of 22.5%. If you buy a yellow coupe or a sports utility vehicle, you’ll recover 94.4% or 90.9% of what you paid for at resale, respectively.

Likewise, secondhand beige, orange and green cars depreciate less than 20% 36 months after leaving the lot. On the other end of the spectrum, three-year-old gold automobiles are the worst, becoming 25.9% cheaper on the used car market.

No Personal Bias Should Color Your Judgment

Choosing a car color should be a fun experience, but approach it with a practical mind. Although no single option is the best at everything, considering these five determining factors will help you make an informed decision.

The post What’s the Best Car Color for the Long Term? 5 Deciding Factors appeared first on Modded.

Who says there’s no such thing as love at first sight? There’s love and then there’s infatuation, and it takes a wise man to know the difference. You might be infatuated with your old vehicle, but a classic car repair sometimes isn’t the practical thing to do. 

Let’s say somebody wants to sell you his old ‘69 Chevy. You don’t mind giving a little love to that set of wheels, but will it break the bank (or your heart) to get it back to gorgeous condition? When is it not worth repairing a car?

These are tough questions for car lovers, but it’s important to answer them and determine the best move. Here are five ways to determine whether or not your infatuation will get you hitched to a problematic relationship. On the other hand, you could start a loving match in your garage.

1. Rust Is Not Kind (On Your Wallet)

If there’s one thing mechanics and car enthusiasts can agree on, it’s that rust is like cancer for any vehicle. Corrosion from oxidation will gut even somewhat newer cars from bumper to bumper if it’s left unchecked.

Rust is an especially concerning problem for classic car repairs. Certain parts may not be easy to find and replace, which means you might have to get them fabricated. If you encounter this problem, then it’s probably not worth repairing a car. 

Rust is also a strong sign that the vehicle may have been a flood car. Flood cars can be absolute nightmares for their owners, so you should steer clear of them. However, if you spend your time in drier climates, then there’s a good chance that this one’s a keeper. 

Cars are less prone to rust in dry and warm climates. Plus, these regions usually aren’t near the coast and don’t use as much road salt for wintery road conditions. Salt is a huge contributor to car corrosion in all shapes and forms. A classic car that spent most of its life in the American Southwest or another desert region could be a diamond in the rough.

2. Paperwork? If Not, Then Stay Away

If you’re buying a classic car and the seller doesn’t have any paperwork, don’t even consider the purchase. The seller should have a registration, title or a 50-year-old receipt at the very least. It’s not worth repairing a car if you don’t know its accident and repair history. This information is indispensable both for practical and legal reasons.

If you become the new owner of a vehicle with no paperwork, then you’ve just picked up a new liability. Now, you’re directly in the DMV’s line of fire. They don’t like unregistered vehicles without paperwork and will ensure you’re aware of that fact when you pay the fines.

You could re-register the vehicle under your state’s laws after the purchase, but there’s no guarantee that it will pass the inspection. One of the main reasons people try to sell unregistered vehicles is because they can no longer pass routine inspections. What good is a classic car repair if you can’t legally drive the car?

3. Take It For a Test Drive If Possible

It’s absolutely crucial that you give the car a test drive before deciding if it’s worth making any repairs. See how it accelerates, shifts and brakes in its current condition. It’s not easy to identify every problem on a simple test drive, but you should still trust your intuition and knowledge of vehicles.

You can usually tell there’s a serious problem if the transmission’s timing is off or there’s something wrong with the way the engine purrs. If you notice something wrong, don’t be afraid to ask the seller a question or two about the vehicle while on your test drive. 

Just take what they say with a grain of salt because at the end of the day, their goal is to have your money in their pocket. Use open-ended questions like “What kind of problems has the engine had?” instead of “Has the engine had any problems?” Force them to give you more information besides “yes” and “no” answers.

If the seller doesn’t want you to test drive the vehicle, then walk away and stop wasting your time. It can only mean that the car isn’t registered, isn’t running properly, or might not run at all. A classic car repair is only worth the costs if you’re starting from a reasonable point, not from scratch. You might as well buy a brand-new car at that point.

4. Look Under the Hood

Frankly, you probably shouldn’t be looking to drop your dollars on a classic car repair if you don’t know anything about working on older engines and other outdated car components. If you really know your stuff, then a good look under the hood will give you a solid idea of whether or not it’s worth repairing the car.

However, it’s important to reiterate that if you notice signs of rust and corrosion under the hood, then you should probably leave this deal on the table. A classic car repair is difficult enough without a rusted engine and other severely damaged parts in the most important area of the vehicle.

5. Add Up The Costs

If you’re a veteran of the car enthusiast scene, you’ve probably heard the phrase “it needs a little work” countless times. Of course, “a little work” could mean $100 — or it could mean $10,000. To add the cost of repair into your decision, make a list of the parts you’ll need and then find prices online. 

Keep in mind that not all car parts are priced equally. It depends on many factors including the manufacturer, labor charges and product price mark-ups. For example, a carburetor for that 69’ Chevy might be around $165, one for a 69’ Mustang could be $300 and one for a ’69 Porsche 912 will cost you $700. 

6. The Little (Big) Things Matter

One of the most basic reasons for purchasing a classic car is to experience the “little” things. Small features like the upholstery, emblems, ornaments, logos, dials and stylish accessories make the car what it is — a classic collector’s item. If you need to replace half the interior and original parts, then it might not be worth repairing. 

A dirty, dusty interior can be cleaned with a little loving elbow grease. However, ripping up and replacing everything just defeats the purpose of why you’re buying a classic in the first place. Of course, if your whole reason for getting the car is to restore it, then go ahead, and have fun!

Classic Car Repairs — Not Always Worth It

It’s not worth repairing a car when the damage is too great — especially if the damage is rust — or if the seller refuses to provide adequate information. If you’re still not sure, take the car for a test drive, look under the hood or estimate the costs of the parts you’ll need. In any case, the moral of the story is that classic car repairs are not always worth it — not by a long shot.

Original publish date 1/7/2015 — Updated 1/3/2024

The post Classic Car Repair: When Is It Not Worth Repairing a Car? (Updated for 2024) appeared first on Modded.

There’s nothing stronger than family and the muscle cars from the Fast and Furious movies. This iconic franchise has 11 films if you include the Hobbs & Shaw spin-off, and there’s no reason to think they’ll slow down anytime soon. Let’s think about all the vehicles we’ve seen across the films and what the best Fast and Furious cars are. Picking your favorite is brutal, so we’ve ranked the eight best for you.

8. The Gurkha LAPV

Let’s start the list with the Gurkha light-armor patrol vehicle (LAPV), even though it’s not a racing vehicle. Luke Hobbs (Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson) debuts this gigantic armored vehicle in “Fast Five” and brings along other agents from the Diplomatic Security Service (DSS). Hobbs starts out as an unfriendly character but joins the crew in their heists. His Gurkha LAPV is an iconic vehicle you can recognize from far away.

The Gurka LAPV is a mean machine that exists in real life, featuring a 7-L V8 turbo engine and 330 horsepower. It’s not the fastest vehicle in the world, but it gets the job done with a rugged exterior capable of withstanding gunfire. Plus, the Rock is driving it, and he’s one of the coolest dudes on Earth. Who are we to leave off the guy making nearly $300 million a year from movies alone?

7. 2000 Honda S2000 

If you inserted Margot Robbie’s Barbie into the Fast and Furious movies, there’s a good chance she’d drive Suki’s Honda S2000. This pink machine makes the list because of its speed and style, personifying Suki’s personality in a vehicle. It’s arguably the most recognizable vehicle of the bunch due to its bright colors and artwork on the door. 

You might remember Suki’s Honda S2000 from the scene where it jumped a drawbridge and had a rough landing. However, she still finished second in the race! That scene alone gives the Honda S2000 a spot on the list. 

6. 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse

Saying the 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse isn’t one of the best Fast and Furious cars would be a mistake, considering it dates back to the first film in 2001. This car belongs to Brian O’Conner, who used it in his first street race. Part of this entry is to pay homage to Paul Walker, but the vehicle stands alone as a stud. 

First, the ‘95 Mitsubishi Eclipse looks like a stud with its green and black paint job and blue and white artwork on either side. The vehicle has a 4-cylinder engine and is a sporty machine, even if O’Conner initially struggles to handle it. The Eclipse might not last in the movie, but it remains in our hearts.

5. 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback

We’ll have to go back in time for No. 5 on this list, the 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback. In real life, the Fastback was part of the first generation of Mustangs. April 1964 saw the first Mustangs introduced, and it would only be four months later when Ford fans got the Fastback. 

In the Fast and Furious franchise, we’d see the Ford Mustang Fastback for the first time in “Tokyo Drift,” the third installment. In the film, Sean and his crew turn the 1967 Mustang Fastback into a drift car using a Skyline RB26 engine and other modifying parts. While some Mustang purists would stick their noses up at replacing the original engine, this machine sounds excellent on the street.

4. 2022 Dodge Charger Daytona SRT EV

The electric vehicle (EV) craze has started to take over the auto industry, and for good reason. These cars have no tailpipe emissions, thus making street races more environmentally friendly — even if they’re not necessarily legal. The 2022 Dodge Charger Daytona SRT EV was Dodge’s method of electrifying its fleet, and “Fast X” serves as a first glimpse of this vehicle. 

Again, muscle car purists might not enjoy EVs compared to their machines, so don’t expect to see the SRT EV on their list of best Fast and Furious cars. However, this car proves it has the speed and torque to keep up with anybody else on the street. Expect more EVs in the Fast and Furious movies with gas-powered sedans dying out.

3. 1970 Dodge Charger R/T

Believe it or not, there was a time when the Dodge Charger ran on gasoline. Dodge’s pony car dates back to 1966, and the 1970 makes its first of many appearances in the OG Fast and Furious. It’s a beautiful and easily recognizable car and arguably the most popular from the entire franchise because it belongs to Dominic Toretto. 

The 1970 Dodge Charger R/T is hard to beat regarding looks and performance. In each movie, Toretto adds something new to make it better and better, whether modifying the V8 engine or something else on the body. Good luck racing against this rig in a street race.

2. 1997 Mazda RX-7 Veilside Fortune

“The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift” gets another entry with the 1997 Mazda RX-7 Veilside Fortune. When you see the Veilside Fortune, you might think of a modded car coming from GTA 5 because that’s how good it looks. This vehicle is a speed demon featuring iconic looks with its orange and black paint scheme. While it looks different from most cars on this list, the uniqueness earns bonus points for creativity. 

The RX-7 Veilside Fortune is no match for police and other street racers, as its drifting capabilities readily stomp the competition. Han Lue is the fellow who drives this car, and we’re jealous he gets behind the wheel of this machine. Imagine Han teaching you how to drift in this gorgeous machine.

1. 1994 Toyota Supra JZA80

While the previous vehicles are unique, none compares to the 1994 Toyota Supra JZA80. The Supra is the best Fast and Furious car from the entire franchise because of the vehicle itself and the meaning behind it. O’Conner races this machine in multiple movies, making fans associate the Supra JZA80 with Paul Walker, even though a decade has passed since his passing. 

The car is a sight to behold, regardless of who drives it. O’Conner’s Supra gets an impressive 320 horsepower, twin-turbo 2JZ engines and an iconic paint scheme depicting a bulky arm pointing forward.

Ranking the Best Fast and Furious Cars of All Time

The Fast and the Furious franchise has been around since 2001, and who’s to say it won’t last another couple of decades? For over 20 years, we’ve seen some fantastic machines, ranging from Suki’s S2000 to Toretto’s Charger R/T. Which vehicles did we miss on this list? 

The post 8 Best Fast and Furious Cars appeared first on Modded.

Co-authored by Cory Mercer and Martin Banks

Are you fully equipped with DIY mechanic tools? When most people set up their garage, their minds gravitate towards accessories like toolboxes, work benches, and air compressors. However, there are a number of other beneficial and convenient DIY mechanic tools most overlook.

Whether you’re building a project car for the track or simply like to do your own work on your daily driver, all DIY mechanics can agree that a proper garage set-up is important. The garage is a sanctuary for everything automotive. If you’ve ever spent an hour elbow-deep in an engine bay, you know it pays to have the right tools for the job.

Equipping Your Garage

You need more than parts and instructions for the job. You’ve got to have the right tools too. They might seem expensive at first. However, it’s worth it, considering the right tools can prevent injury and save you money in the long run.

Begin with the basics. You won’t be performing body-off restorations in your garage on day one. So put a pause on buying extremely specialized tools. Get a quality workbench, a tool chest and some wall mounts to keep things organized, and ensure you seal your floor so it’s ready to get dirty.

Ensure You Have Proper Lighting

What’s the first thing you do when you walk into the garage? Flip on the light switch. When it comes to garage work, lighting is essential whether you’re working on your car or any other DIY project for the house. If the light is too dim or there are too many shadows, mistakes can be made, and mistakes can be costly (not to mention, painful).

Most garage light fixtures have a standard pair of fluorescent tube lights. While fluorescents can be good, LEDs have proven to be the future. This is because they are energy efficient and have impressive brightness and directional lighting. Simply replacing your current fluorescents with LEDs can do a number to improve visibility. Adding another fixture or two? That will really transform your image while working.

Pro tip: If you do plan to add more fixtures to your current lighting setup, install them over areas you know you’ll be working on often. A light fixture over a workbench can provide so much light and it makes working on small parts much, much easier.

Microfiber Towels to Clean Your Car

Like most people, you may turn to old bath towels or beat-up T-shirts when you need a new shop rag. While these materials can handle their basic purpose, they have nothing on the cleaning efficiency of microfiber towels. Microfiber is a synthetic material with smaller and denser fibers than other common cleaning materials like cotton or nylon. These fibers can pick up even the smallest particles, which effectively cleans dirt or grease. In addition, microfiber towels are absorbent, light weight, and lint-free which is why they’ve become the preferred detailer’s towel. If you want to protect your car from scratches and water stains, use microfiber towels.

And the best part? Microfiber towels are a heck of a bang for your buck. You can buy a pack of a dozen online or from your local auto parts store for less than $20. Most of them are good for roughly 500 wash cycles. So it’ll be years before you need to invest in another set.

A Pegboard to Organize Your Tools

Everyone has at least one disorganized spot in the garage. Maybe you filled up a small drawer with oddly shaped tools. Or a big bin with stuff that wouldn’t fit in anywhere else. This is where pegboards come in handy. Pegboards are a tool organization lifesaver. They also help you free up precious floor space by using empty wall space.

Pegboards are available in plenty of sizes and styles. There are also unique hangers available for nearly every type of tool or product, from hammers and rakes to step stools and hoses. If you have the time and like custom jobs, you can even make your own. There are dozens of DIY guides to follow online, and it’s a relatively easy job to follow even for beginners.

The Essential DIY Mechanic Tools

Once you have the beginnings of an organized garage in place, it’s time to treat yourself to the mechanic’s bread-and-butter toolset with essential tools like a screwdriver set , a drop light and a good set of sockets and drivers. Cars use different types of fasteners from those you see in drywall. This means you may need to invest in specialized sockets and drivers for the task.

There are a few specialized tools you might not think of if you’re new to DIY. For example, a torque wrench is essential for working on cars because it has a readout to indicate how much twisting force you are applying to a fastener. Additionally, an air compressor can be valuable for driving tools and helping speed up your work.

You’ll also want to have a few things on hand specific to your car. This means having an extra change of oil and filter around, replacement light bulbs and a spare battery. You will thank yourself in future when you need them, particularly the battery. Give yourself enough time to find good deals on these wear parts to make the most out of your money.

Last but not least, a service manual for your vehicle can be a lifesaver. Especially if you find yourself in over your head. You can purchase these from third-party authors or your car’s manufacturer.

Power Supplies

Every garage has a few power outlets built into its walls, just like any other room in the house. However, compared to a kitchen or living room, things like lighting, tools and chargers require more power in the garage. A standard set of wall outlets can be limited both in number and location.

Pick up a few power strips and extension cords to increase your outlet count tenfold. While you have enough now, you will inevitably need more in the future. No doubt you’ve had moments where you needed to plug something in but every outlet was taken. Or, you needed power in a specific spot but the nearest outlet was 10 feet away. The next time you have one of those moments, you’ll be happy you have extra power supplies on hand.

Pro tip: When shopping for power supplies for use in the garage, try find products with metal casings. Metal casings as are much more durable than the average plastic power strip. Additionally, look for products with surge protection to prevent your gear from potential damage caused by unexpected power spikes.

Safety Gear

Many people forego safety gear. Some do it because they think it’s unnecessary for the job they’re doing, others do it to put on a “tough” act. However, no matter what the job, when you walk into the garage to work, leave your ego at the door. It’s important to protect yourself and have good safety habits.

Proper safety starts with the basics like wearing hand and eye protection while working. You also want to keep the first aid kit and fire extinguisher in close proximity. No one can predict when an accident is going to occur – but if one does, you’ll want all the necessary safety gear to prevent injury to yourself or damage to your house.

Top-Shelf or Bargain Basement?

As a new mechanic, you might be curious about how much to spend on tools. You can find DIY mechanic tools at a multitude of different price points, but is there any value in paying more?

As with most things, you get what you pay for when it comes to tools. It’s wise to skip the absolute cheapest tools you find because they can break easily or need replacement more often. You can also rule out expensive professional-grade tools too since they might have unnecessary features or standards higher than your applications require. Every tool is different, so read reviews and ask your friends for recommendations.

A good set of tools will last a long time if you use them properly, so take good care of them and expect others to do the same.

Fixing up cars is a lot of fun and saves you money on trips to the mechanic. It may even become a source of income in the future. For ultimate success you need the right tools. You also need to know how take care of them once you have them. Doing so will help ensure your projects go smoothly, keep you safe and help you produce quality results.

Get These DIY Mechanic Tools

A garage is always a work in progress. There are always more tools to add to make your work easier, faster, or better. While a new power tool set may seem attractive, make sure you’ve got the essentials in place before you start the upgrades. As you’ve probably heard most of your life, it’s the littlest things that make the biggest difference. Start with these DIY mechanic tools!

Originally posted 9/11/2017 — Updated 10/9/2023

The post Tools Every DIY Mechanic Should Have in Their Garage (Updated for 2024) appeared first on Modded.